tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31785535413023260652024-03-04T22:21:48.199-08:00Wine CharmsIsabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-61120540710923982482011-06-12T05:52:00.000-07:002011-06-12T06:04:35.955-07:00Dear DiaryDear Diary,<br /><br />Oh dear, has really nearly half a year passed by already since my last blog entry? <br /><br />Time is running - so here is a little update on Wine Charms, dedicated to my Mom who started to get quite worried... (and more detailed blog entries to follow asap, promised!):<br />- became Brand Ambassador for Hess Family Estates (www.hess-family.com)<br />- became wine tutor for Viniversitaet (www.viniversitaet.de) <br />- became full IWSC judge (remember last year I was Associate, so as from this year I am judging 'properly')<br />- been teaching WSET Advanced<br />- been travelling a lot (ProWein, LIWF, Budapest, Luxemburg, Warsaw, Hamburg, Bremen, Prague, Duesseldorf again, Wuerzburg & Aschaffenburg and many destinations more)<br />- was regular member of tasting panels at Meininger<br />- attended loads of fascinating events in the wine world worth writing about (once I find the time...)<br />- looking very much forward to Vinexpo now, off to Bordeaux on Saturday!!!<br /><br /><br />Hasta muy pronto, Isabel<br /><br /><br />Cheers, IsaIsabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-32768353970218700282010-12-21T06:52:00.000-08:002010-12-21T06:53:22.613-08:00<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0" bgcolor="#ffffff"><tr><td><a href="http://smilebox.com/play/4d6a41324d7a41354e446b3d0d0a&blogview=true&campaign=blog_playback_link" target="_blank"><img width="386" height="303" alt="Click to play this Smilebox greeting" src="http://smilebox.com/snap/4d6a41324d7a41354e446b3d0d0a.jpg" style="border: medium none ;"/></a></td></tr><tr><td><a href="http://www.smilebox.com/?partner=googleeurope&campaign=blog_snapshot" target="_blank"><img width="386" height="46" alt="Create your own greeting - Powered by Smilebox" src="http://www.smilebox.com/globalImages/blogInstructions/blogLogoSmileboxSmall.gif" style="border: medium none ;"/></a></td></tr><tr><td align="center">Make your own ecard</td></tr></table>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-54719628956716521792010-11-28T14:01:00.000-08:002010-12-02T16:33:09.596-08:00IWSC Awards Banquet<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_hTPsvIgRl36Kes6B782_xStCVTFk5bY88bjbhATQqTdX2N4nZFXw2eWewPmr1Kjfc0IbJcIVK5qoqgMG7ALeI1cXQ4s60tM_grTFLstnVUaOpNRiX577a4PkRovRr5V0m67KLlL_t5Z/s1600/182.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546210739351492530" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_hTPsvIgRl36Kes6B782_xStCVTFk5bY88bjbhATQqTdX2N4nZFXw2eWewPmr1Kjfc0IbJcIVK5qoqgMG7ALeI1cXQ4s60tM_grTFLstnVUaOpNRiX577a4PkRovRr5V0m67KLlL_t5Z/s320/182.JPG" border="0" /></a> Back again to London's impressive Guildhall!<br />On Wednesday, 17th November 2010, the International Wine and Spirits Competition's Awards Presentation and Banquet took place here. (As you may remember, I was an Associate Judge at IWSC this year, that's why I got invited to this event).<br /><br /><br /><br />Zurück in Londons imposanter Guildhall (Haus der Innungen). Am Mittwoch, 17. November 2010 fand dort Preisverleihung und Festessen des International Wine and Spirits Competition statt. (Wie ihr euch vielleicht erinnert, war ich in diesem Jahr beisitzendes Jurymitglied des IWSC, daher die Einladung zur Preisverleihung).<br /><br /><br />The evening started with the opportunity to taste the winning wines and spirits. Venue for this was the East Crypt (picture below).<br /><br /><br />Der Abend begann mit der Gelegenheit zur Verkostung der Siegerweine und -spirituosen in der östlichen Krypta (Bild unten).<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2ysk_0IufoV3apvDsXV-Zy0ONnCtr0fN8Y4HaiZBFOW4XrcChJRa28focnlstHlrtMDV__nR1AZqYYychjrqCcw9hXuP9-vJBpFmPqliC5NjQfoSCNmEEFB5RKucVPsX01HSOsoz1f4k/s1600/080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546210347568916178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe2ysk_0IufoV3apvDsXV-Zy0ONnCtr0fN8Y4HaiZBFOW4XrcChJRa28focnlstHlrtMDV__nR1AZqYYychjrqCcw9hXuP9-vJBpFmPqliC5NjQfoSCNmEEFB5RKucVPsX01HSOsoz1f4k/s400/080.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYKbYm2f88zo1iVXdAW3ptLodnISGjRt60zcc6CdcegS8AG4-rUDV93NELQjqVKGKQUbHouCnUPX6o85mlOq94mfIxldti3i08GxVebQO0u8I0ZXWesbmU3gMm9cAWoqxhFNPsqNYnx4P/s1600/084.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546209961662775378" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYKbYm2f88zo1iVXdAW3ptLodnISGjRt60zcc6CdcegS8AG4-rUDV93NELQjqVKGKQUbHouCnUPX6o85mlOq94mfIxldti3i08GxVebQO0u8I0ZXWesbmU3gMm9cAWoqxhFNPsqNYnx4P/s320/084.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9APBcdu5EnGcOoPxH4neK1W0Qo7kkQQ_6lNNuUE9g446HpzUWm3ykxAdPIyVxekTh95ADsY08UrK6Xb6kAGHc3YYWpeE_OmrfIG1QuftoGOobtgnj52sP8UUUMpgsuFNTOsDjZmT66yhX/s1600/085.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546209727219056722" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9APBcdu5EnGcOoPxH4neK1W0Qo7kkQQ_6lNNuUE9g446HpzUWm3ykxAdPIyVxekTh95ADsY08UrK6Xb6kAGHc3YYWpeE_OmrfIG1QuftoGOobtgnj52sP8UUUMpgsuFNTOsDjZmT66yhX/s200/085.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQItolKPQcMarl3pH5ZGYVaEyMzQWB1Lyez37ZWus4lnuz88Mx89ae3btXMT2AlbiGuhvg7ZlCZ_SkR6km5LrslPF_ESh5orjfvkcb5lBOv5_birP7CenGoTKs-xDbgq9kfV7PsUmSeoE/s1600/090.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546209447414686930" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQItolKPQcMarl3pH5ZGYVaEyMzQWB1Lyez37ZWus4lnuz88Mx89ae3btXMT2AlbiGuhvg7ZlCZ_SkR6km5LrslPF_ESh5orjfvkcb5lBOv5_birP7CenGoTKs-xDbgq9kfV7PsUmSeoE/s320/090.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The grandiose Champagnes were out of stock in no time - as appreciated as aperitif by many guests.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijinDY5wDAgtOZhX6nrNVyxXRdtVUVaqxzuXL1Uyj2vIqnolV3M0rOKTM4jaQbSuZb5Qd7xq3XKW1e6MEBTccBdGI4wMh7-yXHtRPpO1KcAeJJ_jF-hR6SZ7IwvcRMPY74GnzFppRRD2D9/s1600/091.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546209247722815634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijinDY5wDAgtOZhX6nrNVyxXRdtVUVaqxzuXL1Uyj2vIqnolV3M0rOKTM4jaQbSuZb5Qd7xq3XKW1e6MEBTccBdGI4wMh7-yXHtRPpO1KcAeJJ_jF-hR6SZ7IwvcRMPY74GnzFppRRD2D9/s200/091.JPG" border="0" /></a> Die grandiosen Champagner waren im Nu vergriffen - dienten sie vielen Gästen doch als Aperitif.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sQfgRvYrlgg0gxzq9eijeO-uM8ShptYQECPu4I7ChoWym68WjefhWgMXfTGa7qkUrXXFlsBUFugqdyolT770tttIlJOhCbjLq0zMJFC5ClMlvVT4XbMLTnP5SOybbd4oyxJsXeqpIr_Z/s1600/091.JPG"></a><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Absorbed in the tasting I was just approaching the dessert wines, when the loudspeaker kindly asked the guests to move on to the dining hall. Never mind, I thought, it will take ages until everyone gets seated - so I went on tasting. The following announcements I therefore ignored equally - don't let the system rush you, there's still plenty of time! When the hooter started shortly afterwards, I remember thinking briefly: uhij, their timing seems very strict and they are determined to stick to it at any price. Whatever, so I'll skip the starter! Visually, I did see the fire brigade running down the steps to the crypt, from the corner of my eye. But they ran right passed me (and a few other guests pursuing the same tactic as I) without paying attention to us, and I continued my private tasting (how brilliant, no one standing in the way, no one blocking access to the bottles, no time lost cleaving for the spittoon!)... But the persisting hooter was somewhat irritating. And why would the cooks run up the stairs now? Followed by the firemen. Who, slightly annoyed, addressed and asked us to leave the building immediately, this was not a drill. Hah? Oooooooooohhhhhhh.kay.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Ganz vertieft war ich in die Verkostung und hatte mich gerade zu den Dessertweinen durchprobiert, als per Lautsprecher zum Essen geladen wurde. Egal, dachte ich, das dauert doch ewig, bis alle sitzen - und probierte weiter. Bei den nächsten Durchsagen hörte ich gar nicht mehr hin - nur nicht hetzen lassen, ist noch viel Zeit. Als die Sirene kurz danach erklang, dachte ich kurz: uhij, die haben wohl einen sehr straffen Zeitplan und gehen mit harten Bandagen zu Werke, um ihn einzuhalten. Egal, verzichte ich notfalls eben auf die Vorspeise. Die Feuerwehrleute, die die Treppe herunter in die Krypta stürmten, nahm ich aus den Augenwinkeln durchaus wahr. Rein visuell. Aber sie liefen an mir (und ein paar weiteren Gästen, welche dieselbe Taktik verfolgten wie ich) vorbei, ohne uns zu beachten, und ich verkostete weiter (wie toll, keiner steht zwischen mir und den Weinen, niemand blockiert den Zugang zu den Tischen und es geht auch keine Zeit verloren, sich einen Weg zu den Spucknäpfen zu bahnen!)... Aber etwas nervte die andauernde Sirene ja schon. Und warum liefen denn nun die Köche die Treppe rauf? Gefolgt von den Feuerwehrleuten. Welche sich jetzt etwas unwirsch an uns wandten und uns aufforderten, doch endlich das Gebäude zu verlassen, dies sei kein Probealarm. Häh? Oooooohhhhh.kay.<br /><br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihBtoAuEHIOKiDBulCEWjvPlDIjTqSpgX73b-gK_6Q-XJCNd7qJFoFJNtLi1tAnvEsVGcQo-m7ywuUrZgqUux5siUJbwS8yHnVY67GNEJqZZ44lPhA5mokXva_UPGvF34LWI3LY_dblmNX/s1600/104.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546208679789287218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihBtoAuEHIOKiDBulCEWjvPlDIjTqSpgX73b-gK_6Q-XJCNd7qJFoFJNtLi1tAnvEsVGcQo-m7ywuUrZgqUux5siUJbwS8yHnVY67GNEJqZZ44lPhA5mokXva_UPGvF34LWI3LY_dblmNX/s320/104.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTFcGE5XTV_EzYZeIX6F5pUknTCp5SUWONLnHdT_gUhhgQ3ehSH7_y3Rw4Z2S72Vb0IGPDFKOFVUDAbxynwvvpiMMHZxjTHupQyFmtGbza8he6imqu2xIHG6Swdefun_JWE4ek-q6kN17D/s1600/095.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546207863020552738" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTFcGE5XTV_EzYZeIX6F5pUknTCp5SUWONLnHdT_gUhhgQ3ehSH7_y3Rw4Z2S72Vb0IGPDFKOFVUDAbxynwvvpiMMHZxjTHupQyFmtGbza8he6imqu2xIHG6Swdefun_JWE4ek-q6kN17D/s320/095.JPG" border="0" /></a> Thanks so much to the brave driver of one of the fire engines, who offered three of us shelter in the cold, rainy night!<br /><br />Vielen Dank dem tapferen Fahrer eines der Feuerwehrautos, welcher dreien von uns in dieser kalten, regnerischen Nacht Obdach anbot!<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqpMreoBZ1AS1EZGoCqi2h2PNA1gKqzFsvzFPwK6SwBlRLgoAO0oxFigtGpKhirgY5WxUxR29N8IXPYnDwpMuVEYGoRdSs2bqWUDYY5FKaN_Md54ui51_62ZB15GG1K04zFQYViGoHwH0z/s1600/097.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546207655216608226" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqpMreoBZ1AS1EZGoCqi2h2PNA1gKqzFsvzFPwK6SwBlRLgoAO0oxFigtGpKhirgY5WxUxR29N8IXPYnDwpMuVEYGoRdSs2bqWUDYY5FKaN_Md54ui51_62ZB15GG1K04zFQYViGoHwH0z/s320/097.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiDxiWTgBK5F54yho_65pkEz0Gsw7InnTxnjBDBqcZC37Bx7pmRqEF-5i97RebGgOL6HNwT8MOCMaJgYJdxowsZKXwzZcpHZYwqdAkSAWAyDkRcs40xyhAeZK7ARls264Y995l2d9itSI8/s1600/100.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546207346723622514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiDxiWTgBK5F54yho_65pkEz0Gsw7InnTxnjBDBqcZC37Bx7pmRqEF-5i97RebGgOL6HNwT8MOCMaJgYJdxowsZKXwzZcpHZYwqdAkSAWAyDkRcs40xyhAeZK7ARls264Y995l2d9itSI8/s320/100.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br />After no fire had been found (but the time schedule thoroughly ruined and the food rather well done), the banquet started, between courses the winners of the mostly desired awards were presented.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div><br />Nachdem dann doch kein Feuer gefunden worden war (aber der Zeitplan so richtig über den Haufen geschmissen und die 'auf den Punkt' gegarten Speisen Vergangenheit waren), ging es dann los mit dem Festmenü, zwischen den Gängen wurden dabei die Gewinner der begehrtesten Trophäen präsentiert.<br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div>I was seated at 'the German table', amongst the nominees for 'Best German Wine Producer of t<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeONqBrdkwlkf4zhbNZKqYad5Ia8yYDuFzM_tkXnB4xNQLgAcqTdij7wnaBuzmJbFqFedYUPbpvJNsX1QxdyxUfO0HOSpt-nfy9_ZxXquQDJkQsp_3wVcFY-Deonh5pulGYjXd1ZtxbZi1/s1600/141.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546205782960963922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeONqBrdkwlkf4zhbNZKqYad5Ia8yYDuFzM_tkXnB4xNQLgAcqTdij7wnaBuzmJbFqFedYUPbpvJNsX1QxdyxUfO0HOSpt-nfy9_ZxXquQDJkQsp_3wVcFY-Deonh5pulGYjXd1ZtxbZi1/s400/141.JPG" border="0" /></a>he Year' (all of them from Franken region), the former Franken Wine Queen Melanie Unsleber (now German Wine Princess), Nicky Forrest (Phipps Agency, marketing German wines in the UK) and Steffen Schindler (Head of Marketing at DWI, the German Wine Institute).<br /><br /><br />Ich saß am 'Deutschen Tisch', inmitten der nominierten Winzer für den 'Besten Deutschen Weinproduzenten des Jahres' (allesamt aus Franken), der ehemailgen Fränkischen Weinkönigin Melanie Unsleber (amtierende Deutsche Weinprinzessin), Nicky Forrest (Phipps Agentur, welche sich ums Marketing der Deutschen Weine im Vereinten Königreich kümmert) sowie Steffen Schindler (Marketingleiter beim DWI, dem Deutschen Weininstitut).</div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Well, someone from our table had to win this award: Many congratulations to winery Horst Sauer for w<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRvm0QbHWktsm-FMDcQ5Qm_vKpcXyZlsOC915eNsAQ1HXoPBH_w5VCTxgwkQsZQUkvdlf-P9lb2egGoT_xSrc5FFbRgoSOu_Jzt1pMovPs8hULwi-T37jwdqHH3Z5V0qzOSKkB2noav1dY/s1600/135.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546206094530792834" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRvm0QbHWktsm-FMDcQ5Qm_vKpcXyZlsOC915eNsAQ1HXoPBH_w5VCTxgwkQsZQUkvdlf-P9lb2egGoT_xSrc5FFbRgoSOu_Jzt1pMovPs8hULwi-T37jwdqHH3Z5V0qzOSKkB2noav1dY/s320/135.JPG" border="0" /></a>inning the well deserved trophy as 'German Wine Producer of the Year'!!!</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Nun gut, einer von unserem Tisch musste ja schließlich siegen: Herzlichen Glückwunsch an das Weingut Horst Sauer, zur wohlverdienten Trophäe als 'German Wine Producer of the Year'!!!!</div><br /><div><br /></div><br /><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546206562099206338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JXMQMPPOJSqyV9vaMaew2Z5iEBnctKWX2gt1gPpS2IPWDiGTQpTW7FU8HQBeOFvyyV7nwGvI6Mf-rQ_XLBtjkrTQEFCARuzHqDdqKpPJiKzyvntHUpUbNRGmzQ1d4LyDRmlGOqSoV3dI/s400/128.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEn3P5WCuNNudmnD5-XfqI2cwoGGfyiBLq0NWS0HI_29thL0CtdoQcUHzvwYmSXBk25LUoU2fVcYiRk69c24OorC1hxORF6cIAfxJ0XHieBPGgRO6NYewnt2WX69nv-dBVpwdtH6vkRE7o/s1600/156.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546205478124390018" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEn3P5WCuNNudmnD5-XfqI2cwoGGfyiBLq0NWS0HI_29thL0CtdoQcUHzvwYmSXBk25LUoU2fVcYiRk69c24OorC1hxORF6cIAfxJ0XHieBPGgRO6NYewnt2WX69nv-dBVpwdtH6vkRE7o/s320/156.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />In his speech, IWSC's President, Prince Michael zu Salm-Salm appreciated the latest success of German vintners: With a total of 22 gold medals they really got on the gravy train in this year's competition. This is one of his last official acts, before handing over the title to his successor, Prince Robert of Luxembourg (owner of Château Mouton-Rothschild) next year.<br /><br /><div><div><br />In seiner Ansprache würdigte IWSC-Präsident Prinz Michael zu Salm-Salm den erneuten Erfolg Deutscher Winzer: Mit insgesamt 22 Goldmedaillen sahnten sie beim diesjährigen Wettbewerb kräftig ab. Dies war eine seiner letzten Amthandlungen vor Übergabe des Amtes an seinen Nachfolger, Prinz Robert von Luxemburg (Eigentümer von Château Mouton-Rothschild) im kommenden Jahr.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div><br />Further trophy winners are:</div><br /><div>Weitere Gewinner von Trophäen sind:<br /><br /></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUkWfkdcwEZSrxf-lwfhKuTLgVi-D8VY7GWB6S0OZgqK7lU1kj-oKPDGOlmje6diK9ujSP4Pp3aItJjTJjPiMYEHC7roMMAFCY1y8QMNqcZ6M1Uzb3r4inceXHyXmkfqFzrBHPXG7WjEA/s1600/159.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546205168615348226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivUkWfkdcwEZSrxf-lwfhKuTLgVi-D8VY7GWB6S0OZgqK7lU1kj-oKPDGOlmje6diK9ujSP4Pp3aItJjTJjPiMYEHC7roMMAFCY1y8QMNqcZ6M1Uzb3r4inceXHyXmkfqFzrBHPXG7WjEA/s320/159.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Peter Richards MW & Susie Barrie MW - Communicator of the Year,<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>William Grant & Sons Ltd - Distiller of the Year<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS32OOU9MRqvDAAnfTz5mH0juH51ArH54MpntKwdAohhoc1G2HJFOFEPNvVGOnQnmvBGXmQRTprrEl1rmiyD-65ptjqG9_q7qVfV_ckbNYqhyphenhyphenjuHPYMhCXLcfWQG9VhA_hFKa4sIvdDSqX/s1600/167.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546204906889635154" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS32OOU9MRqvDAAnfTz5mH0juH51ArH54MpntKwdAohhoc1G2HJFOFEPNvVGOnQnmvBGXmQRTprrEl1rmiyD-65ptjqG9_q7qVfV_ckbNYqhyphenhyphenjuHPYMhCXLcfWQG9VhA_hFKa4sIvdDSqX/s200/167.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div><br /><div>and /sowie Gonzalez Byass SA - Winemaker of the Year<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Congratulations to all trophy winners and many thanks to the organisers & service team of this event!!!!!!<br /><br />Herzlichen Glückwunsch allen Gewinnern und den Organisatoren & Servicekräften dieser Veranstaltung vielen Dank!<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nw-FGaft_oBNz_oVTVwryiQA0XW_FD8erUi6kb8Np436PZWfFEk8q2zOag5hC6Qc7Osu74ybP1G_VThSyRco_Tz297K_nrBpAzyIAYFMYFrfKaODQ3cZDuVx2ok_yconWwZJr-sFBXMa/s1600/177.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546204399801719602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nw-FGaft_oBNz_oVTVwryiQA0XW_FD8erUi6kb8Np436PZWfFEk8q2zOag5hC6Qc7Osu74ybP1G_VThSyRco_Tz297K_nrBpAzyIAYFMYFrfKaODQ3cZDuVx2ok_yconWwZJr-sFBXMa/s400/177.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>Group pic of all trophy winners. Gruppenbild aller Gewinner.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>More information available under <a href="http://www.iwsc.net/">http://www.iwsc.net/</a>. Weitere Infos erhältlich unter <a href="http://www.iwsc.net/">http://www.iwsc.net/</a>. </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-59335980362321677602010-11-16T11:29:00.001-08:002010-12-02T13:23:30.182-08:00TOP 100 - Verkostung für die Weinwirtschaft<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4dU2hboWCbed6Epaa8rX12zXH5mr1zijM4qDF-EvatEIkQtu7R01hJRCiBTP9hKT6b6pue_bY4HPCDYld2AXF6UV61yk6-CEe18tVziVff_jTNESHY-S8qqeBoCmMwDd729KQdArsSIZ/s1600/079.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546190402653299826" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4dU2hboWCbed6Epaa8rX12zXH5mr1zijM4qDF-EvatEIkQtu7R01hJRCiBTP9hKT6b6pue_bY4HPCDYld2AXF6UV61yk6-CEe18tVziVff_jTNESHY-S8qqeBoCmMwDd729KQdArsSIZ/s400/079.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Einen Jahresrückblick auf die 100 erfolgreichsten Weine des Jahres 2010 wird die Weinwirtschaft im kommenden Januar werfen. Zu dieser spannenden Verkostung lud der Meininger Verlag im November ein.<br /><br /><br />Die Gesamtbewertung erfolgt nach 4 Kriterien:<br /><br />1. Marktbedeutung: eine Mindestabsatzmenge von 10.000 Flaschen auf dem deutschen Markt in 2010 war Voraussetzung zur Teilnahme.<br /><br /><br />2. Qualität: diese zu bewerten war Inhalt der Verkostung, bei der ich Jurymitglied war.<br /><br /><br />3. Preis-Qualitätsverhältnis: als Verhältnis des Endverbraucherpreises zur Qualität<br /><br /><br />4. Image, Marketing und Gesamtkonzept: nix Genaues weiß ich nicht, aber das Auge trinkt mit.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlcCPQLnAiQK2zx67fDW97rK8IQtzlOV1cZeg12jFL73m6H_0mrX76BbGHJvi6cqC-FgJLwB8Ex1_Sev-QsIkLyEeiFxG2otW4erXpYO6ZP-9Uh0U4cIOu6-izFwhbe0CFQrB-Jg9FR7E/s1600/073.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546190224815721378" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlcCPQLnAiQK2zx67fDW97rK8IQtzlOV1cZeg12jFL73m6H_0mrX76BbGHJvi6cqC-FgJLwB8Ex1_Sev-QsIkLyEeiFxG2otW4erXpYO6ZP-9Uh0U4cIOu6-izFwhbe0CFQrB-Jg9FR7E/s400/073.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Die meisten Proben wurden aus Deutschland und Italien angestellt, aber es galt auch zahlreiche Weine aus Spanien, Österreich, Chile, Australien, Südafrika und dem Rest der Welt zu bewerten. Die Siegerweine versprechen genauso viel Internationalität - im Januar werden wir in der Fachzeitschrift 'Weinwirtschaft' die Resultate erfahren!<br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-58371844589162797582010-10-10T14:09:00.000-07:002010-11-02T15:56:40.396-07:00Best of Spain-Verkostung des Meininger Verlags<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbQoiEm8efeKIs_13FlZNYGCRNjKafbINfXwyiVnGY2rRUMSUgo5JHBham5SkvxVvhU-3K78_Azha3f44cUWYP8G3MJRFIRK5qbwhUr4L3eCkn9yEfiAW629fcMW0hyphenhyphennrhgNZYCuw7HtzH/s1600/028.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535000516172299186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbQoiEm8efeKIs_13FlZNYGCRNjKafbINfXwyiVnGY2rRUMSUgo5JHBham5SkvxVvhU-3K78_Azha3f44cUWYP8G3MJRFIRK5qbwhUr4L3eCkn9yEfiAW629fcMW0hyphenhyphennrhgNZYCuw7HtzH/s200/028.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><p> </p><p>Vom 5.-7. Oktober stand der Verkostungssaal des Meininger Verlags ganz im Zeichen Spaniens. Unter dem Motto "Best of Spain - Spitzenweine und Entdeckungen" standen fast 900 Weine zur Verkostung an, vom Cava über weiße und rote Stillweine bis zum PX Sherry und aus allen Anbaugebieten. Das Spektrum war riesig, sowohl in Hinblick auf Rebsorten (auch viele autochthone waren vertreten) als auch Stilrichtungen und Qualitäten.</p><br /><br /><br /><br />Mit diesem Thema "wollen wir aufzeigen, was das Weinland Spanien dem Weinfachhandel, der Gastronomie und dem Lebensmittelhandel zu bieten hat." (Susanne Denzer, Leiterin Verkostungsabteilung Meininger Verlag)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeejW0omYg-vsMpBcPdCaztO0-0DpQJLm3op2ASgLim-27tFN8X6gAOvjTuMB2efIzqaD402JZL8KFR1xwW8CtZAQRol3lToqB9q6OOfSyqX8dbRb_E1mDjAgW6uvGT2HHWgfLIOvwHFMB/s1600/036.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535000272592029474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeejW0omYg-vsMpBcPdCaztO0-0DpQJLm3op2ASgLim-27tFN8X6gAOvjTuMB2efIzqaD402JZL8KFR1xwW8CtZAQRol3lToqB9q6OOfSyqX8dbRb_E1mDjAgW6uvGT2HHWgfLIOvwHFMB/s200/036.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Ca. 300 Weine galt es für das Team der Verkoster (darunter Wine Charms) täglich zu probieren und zu bewerten, ein ganz schöner Marathon, an dessen Ende von einem strahlend weißen Lächeln keine Rede mehr sein konnte.<br /><br />Aber das Ergebnis kann sich sehen lassen, es waren sehr viele gute und einige herausragende Weine dabei, und da die Probe blind stattfand, bin ich genauso gespannt wie Sie auf die Veröffentlichung der Sieger (voraussichtlich ab November).<br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8d5Y6nbZL_1_96ys6mwncD6j07U6aTLD0QN-G3A_uA4O3ZahAryFdh9siAlwdbzcOEiSyTzjUwF3HdIM1-CXVznU2FekeLVG5Pv53g1RT15JTJwkTrbHyh8U1tQUYme8Z-HW6-JIxh5-Q/s1600/025.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534999847042509634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8d5Y6nbZL_1_96ys6mwncD6j07U6aTLD0QN-G3A_uA4O3ZahAryFdh9siAlwdbzcOEiSyTzjUwF3HdIM1-CXVznU2FekeLVG5Pv53g1RT15JTJwkTrbHyh8U1tQUYme8Z-HW6-JIxh5-Q/s200/025.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-78398977577450834682010-10-10T14:07:00.000-07:002010-12-05T14:27:37.514-08:00Premiere der Großen Gewächse im Kloster Eberbach<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN6BuL-AC51BGdIXa3fIz5s1_Gc20homa5x2xn1OKIynzmBmEzD-7mYZvViFqSyyY9_ZqhUXVks0F-CY7OMGAmJDtecviE5wkoMmcxrkB8tBMZDtXL8dLfNI66WKSisZ1qYIYW_TpUWWtb/s1600/005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546502919385224706" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN6BuL-AC51BGdIXa3fIz5s1_Gc20homa5x2xn1OKIynzmBmEzD-7mYZvViFqSyyY9_ZqhUXVks0F-CY7OMGAmJDtecviE5wkoMmcxrkB8tBMZDtXL8dLfNI66WKSisZ1qYIYW_TpUWWtb/s400/005.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />On 26. September Kloster Eberbach in Rheingau hosted the eagerly expected annual premiere of 'Große Gewächse' (Great Growths). Member estates of the VDP (= Verband der Prädikatsweingüter, which is the association of Germany's top wineries) presented their wines from Erste Lagen (see below), which may be released for sale only on 01. September in the year following the vintage (for whites) resp. the subsequent year (for reds). So this year white wines 2009 and red wines 2008 were featured in this event.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Am 26. September fand im Rheingauer Kloster Eberbach die alljährlich mit Spannung erwartete Premiere der Großen Gewächse statt. Dabei präsentieren die Mitglieder des Verbandes der Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) ihre Weine aus Ersten Lagen, welche frühestens am 01. September des auf die Lese folgenden Jahres (Weißweine) bzw. des übernächsten Jahres (Rotweine) auf den Markt gebracht werden dürfen. In diesem Jahr standen also Weißweine des 2009er Jahrgangs und Rotweine des 2008er Jahrgangs zur Verkostung an.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />'Erste Lagen' (First Sites) designate Germany's best vineyards as per VDP's classification, similar to the Grands Crus in Burgundy. Strict regulations apply for viticultural practices. Dry wines coming from these premium sites are called 'Großes Gewächs' = Great Growth (except for Rheingau, where they are called 'Erstes Gewächs' = First Growth), and wines with residual sugar contents are called 'fruchtsüße Prädikatsweine' (fruity sweet wines of distinction).<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />'Erste Lagen' bezeichnen nach der VDP-Klassifikation die besten Weinberge Deutschlands, analog etwa zu den Grands Crus wie man sie aus dem Burgund kennt. Unter strengen Richtlinien angebaut, heißen die daraus stammenden Weine dann 'Großes Gewächs' (im Rheingau: 'Erstes Gewächs'), sofern sie trocken sind, und fruchtsüße Prädikatsweine, wenn sie entsprechende Restzuckerwerte aufweisen.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGTWaQTbL08ANU8ldpgJh9v_41OigzIDR0ZaZioxsQ9Uj8k4Xo6k1mNTdLx_FIA5539JZKuPREdDP-7B0R85iJGy9kTysX4oTGXlX7Ngka6HPPgNi9arddOAuSPpu3hwm9aNPiO-9WOAG/s1600/010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546502517951643362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGTWaQTbL08ANU8ldpgJh9v_41OigzIDR0ZaZioxsQ9Uj8k4Xo6k1mNTdLx_FIA5539JZKuPREdDP-7B0R85iJGy9kTysX4oTGXlX7Ngka6HPPgNi9arddOAuSPpu3hwm9aNPiO-9WOAG/s400/010.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />I have to admit that I did not manage to taste even half of the more than 350 wines presented at <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0vKuI0_1-VysvbHC1uLlYRN940PpleR2yzxHHpOF9f_LGkiyVP2rXMRnSXTgzM8nZ6tE1JihH2Z_LKX09ezhLBG8lpz3O4YrjMf7GcIqJPvkN9iwsP41_hyphenhyphenVYTk5Fgcs6xnvlgxlHjyIr/s1600/013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546502330810644962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0vKuI0_1-VysvbHC1uLlYRN940PpleR2yzxHHpOF9f_LGkiyVP2rXMRnSXTgzM8nZ6tE1JihH2Z_LKX09ezhLBG8lpz3O4YrjMf7GcIqJPvkN9iwsP41_hyphenhyphenVYTk5Fgcs6xnvlgxlHjyIr/s320/013.JPG" border="0" /></a>the 4-hour event at Kloster Eberbach. But among my favourite wines this year are the ones from estate Heymann-Löwenstein / Mosel (<a href="http://www.heymann-loewenstein.com/">www.heymann-loewenstein.com</a>).<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Ich muss zugeben, dass ich es im Laufe der 4-stündigen Verkostung nur knapp die Hälfte der über 350 präsentierten Weine probiert habe. Aber zu meinen Lieblingsweinen in diesem Jahr zählen auf jeden Fall die vom Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein / Mosel (<a href="http://www.heymann-loewenstein.com/">www.heymann-loewenstein.com</a>).<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJPUEGS6RLbAFisLUEAsW46NzEhLGA9ctOIb4gDDgMuVr3B_dwd7Es-qmsWRCt9bJD_v4klY6t8mzDgg5bqx4lgnohV3zuZdeBUseWuTkVCQJFpIW2OBUd17ui5iW6cA9mqs9Zx-DnqZWW/s1600/015.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5546501821842925474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJPUEGS6RLbAFisLUEAsW46NzEhLGA9ctOIb4gDDgMuVr3B_dwd7Es-qmsWRCt9bJD_v4klY6t8mzDgg5bqx4lgnohV3zuZdeBUseWuTkVCQJFpIW2OBUd17ui5iW6cA9mqs9Zx-DnqZWW/s320/015.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>More information are available under <a href="http://www.vdp.de/">http://www.vdp.de/</a>.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Mehr Informationen gibt es unter <a href="http://www.vdp.de/">http://www.vdp.de/</a>.</div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-19475608579488793862010-09-29T13:36:00.000-07:002010-11-16T13:08:02.241-08:00Sopexa Verkostung - Französische Festtagsweine, edle Champagner & Cognac<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYaceBK20NVTZKrXyNWzzKWv_AJY6MRRV61uLmblg_HlNKZ3lST1KuXq39lhqhac-RvBHorDfcYfFLylbnnW3mrD1-9XPUCAkOHBmambfsnWt1wgVaLqMCCftAUoKqJzd5-rzYVGUVb3s/s1600/022.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540237284911300306" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYaceBK20NVTZKrXyNWzzKWv_AJY6MRRV61uLmblg_HlNKZ3lST1KuXq39lhqhac-RvBHorDfcYfFLylbnnW3mrD1-9XPUCAkOHBmambfsnWt1wgVaLqMCCftAUoKqJzd5-rzYVGUVb3s/s400/022.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Am 28. September wurden im Rahmen einer Sopexa Degustation im Frankfurter Hotel Interconti "Französische Festtagsweine, edle Champagner & Cognac" (soweit der vielversprechende Titel) präsentiert. 28 Aussteller aus ganz Frankreich waren anwesend, um ihre Weine zu kommentieren.</div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Zu meinen persönlichen Favoriten gehörten</div><div> </div><div> </div><div></div><div>die Champagner von Bouché Père et Fils (Grande Reserve 2002: feines, cremiges Mousse und intensive Aromen von Trockenobst, insbesondere Feige, reifem Apfel, Brioche, Honig, langer Abgang; Cuvée Saphir: Trotz einer Reifezeit von 6 Jahren auf der Hefe jugendlich-frische Aromen von Pfirsich und Brioche, sehr komplex, cremig und herausragend), vgl. <a href="http://www.champagne-bouche.de/">http://www.champagne-bouche.de/</a></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div></div><div>u<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWg4DVrfSVorbJAetK19Ho3DBbziFGMdisuQ1qT3vGx6IsdI7wuFFAcS5MRnWVOGQzlSFajgvpSMAH9TuD45Bhm_az78gygRufFN4e08kbxQtGETBessoYi3DEm3HHzqDL026q8PBzvgN/s1600/021.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540236736032659538" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWg4DVrfSVorbJAetK19Ho3DBbziFGMdisuQ1qT3vGx6IsdI7wuFFAcS5MRnWVOGQzlSFajgvpSMAH9TuD45Bhm_az78gygRufFN4e08kbxQtGETBessoYi3DEm3HHzqDL026q8PBzvgN/s400/021.JPG" border="0" /></a>nd auch die Champagner von Charpentier (Millésime Brut 2004: elegant und intensiv, cremiges Mousse, exotische Aromen von Mango und Ananas, reifem Apfel und Brioche; Terre d'Emotion Brut von 50 Jahre alten Rebstöcken, cremig-seidiger Schaum, Aromen von Mandarine, weißem Pfeffer und Mineralität, langer Abgang), vgl. <a href="http://www.champagne-charpentier.de/">http://www.champagne-charpentier.de/</a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Loire:</div><div>Bouvet-Ladubay Magnum Instinct, Saumur 2006 aus 80% Chenin Blanc und 20% Chardonnay (cremiges Mousse, Aromen von Mangos, Vanille, gut eingebundene Holznoten, ein wenig brioche, sehr fein strukturiert), vgl. <a href="http://www.bouvet-ladubay.fr/">http://www.bouvet-ladubay.fr/</a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Elsass: </div><div>Domaine Seilly, und hier quasi die gesamte Range, angefangen beim frischen Crémant Brut Prestige über die Spezialität Vin du Pistolet 2007 (verschiedene weiße Rebsorten gemeinsam vinifiziert, jedes Jahr dominiert eine andere Rebsorte das Aromenprofil. Im Jahrgang 2007 ist es Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) und 2005 Pinot Gris Schenkenberg Vendanges Tardives (ausgeprägte Aromen von getrockneter Aprikose, Orangenmarmelade, Honig, Restsüße liegt bei 40g/L und wird durch hohe Säure perfekt ausbalanciert) bis hin zum 2007 Rouge d'Obernai aus 100% Pinot Noir (medium+ intensiv, rote Früchte, animalische Noten, würzig, rauchig), vgl. <a href="http://www.seilly.com/">http://www.seilly.com/</a></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Languedoc-Roussillon: </div><div>Hegarty Chamans (2005er No 1, AOC Minervois, vom Syrah und Carignan: Heidelbeeren, überreife Erdbeeren, Lakritze, Unterholz, Menthol; 2005 Black Knight AOC Minervois vom Syrah, Grenache und Carignan: komplex, reife schwarze Früchte, Schokolade, würzig, medium+ Gehalt an reifen, weichen Tanninen, trinkbereit mit Reifepotential), vgl. <a href="http://www.hegartychamans.com/">http://www.hegartychamans.com/</a></div><div></div><div></div><div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Domaine Gayda Chemin de Moscou 2007, aus Syrah, Grenache und Cinsault (undurchsichtiges purpurrot, medium+ intensive Aromen von schwarzen Früchten, schwarzen Oliven, fleischig-ledrig, hoher Gehalt an festen, reifen Tanninen), dieser Wein braucht noch einige Jahre Zeit. Vgl. <a href="http://www.domainegayda.com/">http://www.domainegayda.com/</a> </div><div></div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Cuvée Jacques Delhon Domaine Bassac 2006 (präsentiert von Riegel Weinimport): handgelesener Biowein aus Hérault, aus Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot und Syrah, 18 Monate im Barrique gereift, ausgeprägte und komplexe Aromen, schwarze Früchte, Vanille, gut eingebundene Eichenholznoten, würzig-lakritzig, kräftiger Körper), vgl. <a href="http://www.riegel.de/">http://www.riegel.de/</a></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Und ich freue mich sehr, dass ich zur ausgiebigen Erheiterung eines Mitarbeiters am Stand von Bordeaux Univitis beitragen konnte. Dieser sprach weder Deutsch noch Englisch, also ließ ich mich nicht lange bitten und versuchte, mit meinen (zugegebenermaßen recht eingeschlafenen)Französisch-Kenntnissen zu glänzen. Doch beim Buchstabieren eines Wortes (der Kontext ist mir entfallen) passierte es: , a, b, deux ll, e... und er fing an zu lachen. und schlug wild mit den Armen um sich. und gackerte wie ein Huhn. und kriegte sich gar nicht mehr ein. und erklärte schließlich: deux l, nicht deux ailes (=Flügel). und prustete wieder los, diesmal gemeinsam mit mir. aber nach 1/2 Minute hatte ich mich wieder beruhigt, während er noch gefühlte Ewigkeiten weiter darin aufging. und als er sich endlich wieder gefangen hatte, erstmal all seinen umstehenden Kollegen davon berichten musste. die (netterweise) nur kurz lachten, mir aufmunternd zulächelten und sich dann wieder an ihre kunden wandten. schließlich gab ich auf - dem flügelschlagenden franzosen war partout nichts über seine weine zu entlocken, ein charmanter Herr am Nachbartisch winkte mich zu sich - und sprach Englisch!!!</div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-46262616532749341912010-09-24T13:02:00.001-07:002010-10-18T05:03:43.782-07:00DisznóköDisznókö means "Pig Rock" and is named after a big rock fou<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnYXQAfX26FPBrU4myz-FR9zZQ0JoPAcChogGDTg5JTyaoaP7olRKz2ngr6BMh796Wp0e0DFkLzBn0qMRrLPAnwDk5gndUgS_3AnnAcn82OGUzfPq1V2EuZGmWpBp79N1VfjakYADs8TQW/s1600/238.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522454576012997410" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnYXQAfX26FPBrU4myz-FR9zZQ0JoPAcChogGDTg5JTyaoaP7olRKz2ngr6BMh796Wp0e0DFkLzBn0qMRrLPAnwDk5gndUgS_3AnnAcn82OGUzfPq1V2EuZGmWpBp79N1VfjakYADs8TQW/s320/238.JPG" border="0" /></a>nd on top of its first growth vineyard, which (with fantasy and/or enough Tokaji wine) resembles a wild boar's head. Historically, Disznókö was a high-quality estate in the 17th-20th century, owned by various Hungarian noble families. Under the communist regime, it was socialised and gradually decayed (see previous blog entries). In 1992, it was acquired by AXA Millésime and has been revived since then, with extensive replantings and the construction of modern wine-making facilities . Dezsö Ekler, an award-winning architect, created the design of the state-of-the-art winery. In contrast to most other wineries of the region, Disznókö estate did not have access to a historic underground maze, when it was bought by AXA in 1992. To make their wines benefit from the ideal ageing conditions as well, such an subterranean ageing cellar was created ex post, by carving it into the solid rhyolite stone underneath the estate.<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522456813346595106" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjknsGUlR1xN_BL3SVA_hPG5WCRQ8f8nNojhoify4eZOGAw19havEPepRPZIU6K_v7w_c4ETgPECZK_sz8PqsgDhQm88D0MSH8n-BHLQ-M3SSbmDxWN-IRyJqCuqskZo226151c4FP9vZc/s320/235.JPG" border="0" /><br /><div>Disznókö bedeutet "Schweinefelsen" und ist nach einem großen Gesteinsbrocken benannt, der auf der Kuppe der gleichnamigen Ersten Weinlage gefunden wurde und (mit etwas Fantasie und/oder viel Tokaji Wein) einem Wildscheinkopf ähneln mag. Aus historischer Sicht war Disznókö ein alteingesessenes Qualitätsweingut, dass im Laufe des 17. bis 20. Jahrhunderts im Besitz verschiedener ungarischer Adelsfamilien war. Während des kommunistischen Regimes wurde es verstaatlicht und war dem allmählichen Verfall preisgegeben (vgl. die vorigen Blog-Einträge). 1992 wurde es von AXA Millésime erworben und seitdem wiederbelebt, inklusive weitgehender Neubepflanzung der Rebfläche und der Errichtung moderner Produktionsanlagen. Dezsö Ekler, ein preisgekrönter Architekt, entwarf das Modell des hochmoder<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTy5D1HX6RyyVSxxp2b5DhKxuaFYqSd2U1L3TVleaADSMz1cqo-f3hx6f4KjC405T5V5nKsoHs8MUan2ZEY1cgeqGcaEgNafyyOmOMgnEEV94RJFMtz_iJ4FhPL3nTuYYvcHxE9Llea5H8/s1600/250.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522455875988012002" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTy5D1HX6RyyVSxxp2b5DhKxuaFYqSd2U1L3TVleaADSMz1cqo-f3hx6f4KjC405T5V5nKsoHs8MUan2ZEY1cgeqGcaEgNafyyOmOMgnEEV94RJFMtz_iJ4FhPL3nTuYYvcHxE9Llea5H8/s400/250.JPG" border="0" /></a>nen Kellers. Im Gegensatz zu den meisten anderen Weingütern der Region hatte Disznókö zu dem Zeitpunkt, als AXA es erwarb, keinen Zugang zu einem unterirdischen Weinlabyrinth. Um die eigenen Weine jedoch auch von den idealen Lagerbedingungen profitieren zu lassen, wurde ein solches Kellergewölbe im Nachhinein erschaffen und in das massive Vulkangestein unterhalb des Weingutes gegraben. </div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>So now the wines age 10m underground, at a constant temperature of 12°C and high humidity as well as a growing layer of cellar-mould on the walls. More than 1000 oak barrels are stored next to large glass jars full of eszencia and large bottled stocks of aszú wines settling for at least 1 year before release. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522455459889940242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTI6sVKkk8i3O1jEs8KxijEZ9m1fUuGeY_nDYQXFNJW3NdZRoo31R0vxpJnX-QqABXFcgSdQZ9EFhucaPk651my27kNjo5QQ_bXzL2z4-zZedFLx1pnRcWDIC-yWuJJLzqqbPXzjAsYSG/s320/252.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq027iopFFswrRkgk8VeCPRcpqVmQsGWBNxgxfJwrcxHEDYg0b1fDFgSA24TMC3DYFtjw9awqlo2h9KlJT-BOv3u-EKSvKMp6Zp9JtguACjjbaH2dj2I0BRr1Ncyhq_ZPPvKvLx4P_JtRg/s1600/Picture3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529105239937585106" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 146px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq027iopFFswrRkgk8VeCPRcpqVmQsGWBNxgxfJwrcxHEDYg0b1fDFgSA24TMC3DYFtjw9awqlo2h9KlJT-BOv3u-EKSvKMp6Zp9JtguACjjbaH2dj2I0BRr1Ncyhq_ZPPvKvLx4P_JtRg/s200/Picture3.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />In 10m Tiefe, bei einer konstanten Temperatur von 12°C und hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit sowie sich einer an den Wänden zunehmend entwickelnden Schicht von Kellerpilzen reifen die Weine nun. Mehr als 1000 Holzfässern lagern neben großen Glaskrügen voll mit Eszencia und unzähligen Flaschen, in denen die gefüllten aszú Weine noch mind. 1 Jahr ausschwingen, bevor sie verkauft werden. </div><br /><br /><div>Picture to the right courtesy of Disznókö<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLd4fp-bSRSdPt5dY4xz8rUVtqIGgxqCAum39kBHe7SD7Kd-w3JN0nU1C8V3BhWsjU6mMAbs0O65mqccPgxW0Qsy8w3TxfJnw-yqRIRe_6WWEBsmPTivj4_x5h60T1MQ8bSNh3uPsALKbd/s1600/234.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529106601912119762" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLd4fp-bSRSdPt5dY4xz8rUVtqIGgxqCAum39kBHe7SD7Kd-w3JN0nU1C8V3BhWsjU6mMAbs0O65mqccPgxW0Qsy8w3TxfJnw-yqRIRe_6WWEBsmPTivj4_x5h60T1MQ8bSNh3uPsALKbd/s200/234.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />But hang on, the story of Disznókö's great wines starts in the vineyard, of course. In this case it is one single, terraced vineyard (eponomously named after aforesaid pig's rock), classified as first great growth and cultivated by Disznókö as single owner. And without purchase of grapes from other growers, all wines of the estate are single vineyard wines and can be marketed 'monopolistically'. But even if only this one vineyard is cultivated, Disznókö is still aware of 4 different terroirs within, whom's typicity and historic importance are being gradually re-discovered: Illésházy, Zombori/Soros Király, Lajos and Kapi. The grapes from these plots are harvested, vinified and aged separately, but for the time being, blended before bottling. 100 ha of the 150 ha total acreage are currently planted with vines, of which 60% is Furmint, 30% Hárslevelü, 9% Zeta and 1% Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibH07QQK2XTJtIqHPOG0Xt6zc4de7jEn0l40ZMWcKoah9MK5K1EOGxK-vJlFOHG5cS23KPpu4xp57mOJPzzo4E28uNWzx-ZZwa4vlqADjhXZgcGNqfI3vdhkxWulPHXCt9xMcul0cx01UQ/s1600/243.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522456494498182306" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibH07QQK2XTJtIqHPOG0Xt6zc4de7jEn0l40ZMWcKoah9MK5K1EOGxK-vJlFOHG5cS23KPpu4xp57mOJPzzo4E28uNWzx-ZZwa4vlqADjhXZgcGNqfI3vdhkxWulPHXCt9xMcul0cx01UQ/s320/243.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br />Doch so weit sind wir ja eigentlich noch gar nicht: denn auch bei Disznókö beginnt die Geschichte großer Weine natürlich im Weinberg. Und das ist in diesem Falle eine einzige Terassenlage (gleichfalls nach dem besagten Schweinefelsen benannt), die Disznókö als Alleinbesitzer bewirtschaftet. Und ohne Zukauf von Traubenmaterial anderer Winzer sind somit alle Weine des Weinguts Einzellagenweine, die 'monopolistisch' vermarktet werden können. Aber obgleich die Weine nur aus diesem einen Weinberg stammen, ist sich Disznókö doch 4 verschiedener Terroirs bewusst, deren Typizität und historische Bedeutung nun nach und nach wieder entdeckt werden: Illésházy, Zombori/Soros Király, Lajos und Kapi. Die Trauben dieser Parzellen werden getrennt voneinander gelesen, vinifiziert und gereift, bis auf Weiteres allerdings vor der Füllung miteinander verschnitten. Von der insgesamt 150 ha großen Fläche sind derzeit 100 ha mit Reben bepflanzt, 60% davon Furmint, 30% Hárslevelü, 9% Zeta und 1% Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />For the harvest 100-150 extra workers are employed for grap<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSttunxceMc4nR5kS6CGqHQ8VbhLv_SeOvSMoRghdnQCCC40U9eCLFS8nR3uQtgy-_bwUDUhYE9vYzxSr8APHpMa3Ulax2o92MbTo0sWpaY3UO1rqi7Mt-UIAPosiiqxGWfO4KwwJdWBen/s1600/Picture2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529105098433151954" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSttunxceMc4nR5kS6CGqHQ8VbhLv_SeOvSMoRghdnQCCC40U9eCLFS8nR3uQtgy-_bwUDUhYE9vYzxSr8APHpMa3Ulax2o92MbTo0sWpaY3UO1rqi7Mt-UIAPosiiqxGWfO4KwwJdWBen/s320/Picture2.jpg" border="0" /></a>e picking. As the picture to the right illustrates, the grapes ripen and get affected by botrytis unevenly, in order that 3-4 selective passages through the vineyard are necessary to pick everything at optimal ripeness level. Only 5-20% of a cluster become aszú (botrytised) in the end, depending on grape variety, vintage and microclimate. One harvester can select only 7-10 kg of aszú grapes per day!<br /><br />(Both harvest pictures of this paragraph are courtesy of Disznókö. For more information on harvest, vinification and ageing of Tokaji wines, please see previous my blog entry titled "The Royal Tokaji Mad Scholarship".)<br /><br /><br /><br />Für die Traubenlese per Hand werden 100-150 Erntehelfer beschäftigt. Wie das Bild oben veranschaulicht, werden die Trauben ungleichmäßig reif und edelfaul, so dass 3-4 selektive L<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf2BTIDLeuBdBKnVSVDXBO7aoirRGoGcAlNg4LF2hS3xkaWKKQ3_3n6vEbt1_ENKsXqonYz1geMVNEWY8YE6of5LjoODZTQbGjAYEbnkpVgM5x4HPdfBZJKZzwwUxkhy-iJlWVPnttudfM/s1600/Picture1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529104878310764786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf2BTIDLeuBdBKnVSVDXBO7aoirRGoGcAlNg4LF2hS3xkaWKKQ3_3n6vEbt1_ENKsXqonYz1geMVNEWY8YE6of5LjoODZTQbGjAYEbnkpVgM5x4HPdfBZJKZzwwUxkhy-iJlWVPnttudfM/s200/Picture1.jpg" border="0" /></a>esegänge von Nöten sind, um alles zum optimalen Reifezeitpunkt zu ernten. Nur 5-20% der Trauben werden aszú (edelfaul), je nach Rebsorte, Jahrgang und Mikroklima. Ein Erntehelfer kann lediglich 7-10 kg aszú Beeren pro Tag lesen!<br /><br /><br />(Beide Fotos in diesem Absatz stammen aus der Datenbank von Disznókö. Für mehr Infos über Lese, Vinifikation und Reifung von Tokaji Weinen: siehe meinen vorherigen Blog-Eintrag mit der Überschrift "The Royal Tokaji Mad Scholarship".)<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522453792695677554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEnEtVugBSgd1wBOR6uRseZGmNqpYWpltbnxEzctvDjiZ4XOmks9nIq_-UzMk5F6piNM6HDITara9LMvn3RUDBYIWIO01fizBsDkrN-CvusP0vYNv8qEb4Mv-gAncWXtS6HTFYxce2PZMy/s320/233.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />The picture above shows Disznókö's former press-house (built in the 19th century), now locating one of the region's best restaurants.<br /><br /><br />Das Bild oben zeigt Disznókös ehemaliges Kelterhaus (in 19. Jahrhundert erbaut), heute eines der besten Restaurants der Region.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGnI9_K-eSwtzUiKFg7P2AWREdhsdzH_sTDoYZDHRDptlDECo_qOSSsNRXdgY2PLA5HcFqW8zwyJzqpFbTGsGsnq8PqYcp_CtddDSt-shOnSazMdgXzHspyW9AWnTpPTNYODgoc1jMuyGe/s1600/247.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522456172679002818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGnI9_K-eSwtzUiKFg7P2AWREdhsdzH_sTDoYZDHRDptlDECo_qOSSsNRXdgY2PLA5HcFqW8zwyJzqpFbTGsGsnq8PqYcp_CtddDSt-shOnSazMdgXzHspyW9AWnTpPTNYODgoc1jMuyGe/s320/247.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Like most Tokaji producers, Disznókö produces a wide range of wine styles. There is one traditional style I have not mentioned before, as not all wineries are still producing it: Szamorodni.<br /><br /><br />Wie die meisten Erzeuger in Tokaji produziert Disznókö eine große Bandbreite an Weinstilen. Einen traditionellen Stil habe ich bislang noch nicht erwähnt, da er nicht mehr in allen Weingütern anzutreffen ist: Szamorodni.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Literally, Szamorodni means "as it comes", which refers to the grapes that are picked with or without botrytis, whatever is left on the bunches at the end of the harvest. Szamorodni is the traditional late harvest wines of Tokaji, differing from the more modern 'Late Harvest' labelled versions in two ways:<br />1. It is aged for at least one year in oak and another year in bottle (thus less fruit-forward and slightly oxidized, which is more difficult to market nowadays and hence abandoned by many producers)<br />2. It may be dry (whilst all the modern versions have some residual sugar)<br /><br />Sweet Szamorodni: Due to the high sugar and botrytis content of the berries the wine could not fully ferment, and approx. as much residual sugar is left as in a 2 or 3 puttonyos aszú. Then oak aged as mentioned above.<br /><br /><br />Dry Szamorodni: When the sugar and botrytis content of the grapes is low enough, the wine can fully ferment. Upon oak ageing (as per above) a film-forming yeast cover develops, like in Sherry production, along with the typical nutty, zesty and apple flavours.<br /><br /><br /><br />Szamorodni bedeutet, wörtlich übersetzt, "wie es kommt" -das bezieht sich darauf, dass die Beeren mit oder ohne Botrytisbefall gelesen werden, was immer am Ende der Lese noch am Rappen hängt. Szamorodni ist die traditionelle Spätlese (Late Harvest) von Tokaji und unterscheidet sich von den modernen, mit 'Late Harvest' etikettierten Versionen auf zwei Weisen:<br />1. Er wird mindestens ein Jahr im Eichenholzfass und ein weiteres auf der Flasche gelagert (ist damit weniger fruchtbetont und leicht oxidiert, was sich heutzutage nicht so leicht vermarkten lässt, und wurde daher von vielen Produzenten aufgegeben)<br />2. Er kann trocken sein (während alle modernen Versionen etwas Restzucker aufweisen).<br /><br /><br />Restsüßer Szamorodni: Aufgrund des hohen Zucker- und Botrytisgehalts der Beeren kann der Wein nicht durchgären und es verbleibt ein Restzuckergehalt wie in einem 2 oder 3 puttonyos aszú. Dann folgt die Reifung im Eichenholzfass wie oben beschrieben.<br /><br />Trockener Szamorodni: Wenn der Zucker- und Botrytisgehalt der Beeren gering genug ist, kann der Wein komplett durchgären. Während der Reifezeit im Fass (siehe oben) entsteht eine Filmbildende Hefedecke, wie in der Sherry-Produktion, und damit einhergehend die typisch nussigen, würzigen und Apfelaromen.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><br />Disznókö's winemaker, Zoltán Kovács, declares that dry Szamorodni is actually the most difficult style to produce a well-balanced wine of. The base wines must be of excellent quality and aroma con<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFjkTiXJ7oDLrAz_ghDB-HHsFwYDo2ZFAHNjgfakAWmir7meaUR_LczEGNtnFQbCGzY-jMrz0avcGv1HuO73uJekUA1pBkGrvkopTqkWa7QobXz0DLmRPCgtuX_p6iYdhNRFpVxaUr-v2k/s1600/259.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522455186828945026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFjkTiXJ7oDLrAz_ghDB-HHsFwYDo2ZFAHNjgfakAWmir7meaUR_LczEGNtnFQbCGzY-jMrz0avcGv1HuO73uJekUA1pBkGrvkopTqkWa7QobXz0DLmRPCgtuX_p6iYdhNRFpVxaUr-v2k/s200/259.JPG" border="0" /></a>centration, in order to counter balance the high alcohol content (higher than in the sweet wines, as grape sugars are fully fermented) and high natural acidity.<br /><br /><br />Disnókös Kellermeister, Zoltán Kovács, erklärt, dass trockener Szamorodni der am schwierigsten herzustellende Stil ist, wegen der Harmonie. The Grundweine müssen von exzellenter Qualität und hoher Aromakonzentration sein, um den hohen Alkoholgehalt (höher als in den restsüßen Weinen, da der Fruchtzucker vollständig vergärt wurde) sowie die hohe Säure ausbalancieren zu können. </p><p><br /><br /><br />And here are some of my tasting notes:<br /><br /><br />Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos 2001: deep gold colour. Youthful, pronounced nose. Aromas of quince, dried apricot, citrus zest, dill (typical of the terroir), botrytis and acacia blossom. High acidity, great balance, very good quality.<br />(2001 was quite a rainy vintage, not one of the top years and the aszú berries were macerated in fully fermented base wines. In the best years like 2002, 2000, 1999 they can be macerated in fermenting must, resulting in a better extraction.)<br /><br /><br />Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos 2000: deep gold colour. Medium intense, just about starting to develop. Luscious, medium+ acid, peach and yellow plum aromas, honey, wild flowers, spicy vanilla, touch of toffee. Very good quality, long finish.<br />(Disznókö produces 6 puttonyos wines only in the best vintages, when the aszú berries can be macerated in fermenting must. In 2000, after a very warm and dry growing season, the aszú berries - from 75% Furmint and 25% Zeta - were macerated in fermenting must made from Hárslevelü and Furmint for 3 days. The wine was then aged in oak barrels for 2 1/2 years.)<br /><br /><br />Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos 1999: Deep amber colour. Medium intense, developing. Luscious, high acid, herbal notes (dill), honey, botrytis, dried apricots, orange zest, minerality, toffee, chocolate. Complex and long lingering. Outstanding.<br />(1999 was a classic Tokaji vintage, probably the best of the nineties. Dry, hot summer, early ripening of the grapes, which showed both extremely concentrated aromas as well as particularly well preserved acidity.)<br /><br /><br />Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos 1993: Deep amber colour. Medium intense, developing. Luscious, medium+ acid, dried fruits (raisin, figs, apricots, prune, dates), strawberry jam, honey, botrytis, mint, toffee, tobacco leafs, vanilla, walnut, savoury-meaty notes. Complex, balanced and long lingering, outstanding! (Great vintage, of historic importance to the winery, as the first vintage under new leadership of AXA Milllésime<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHTxNuJe2p4mGYsMIKyM_plKj4okyYtYDGgPuY9Ez8UZvYuNEoJPzLn5USNYbfBRq2-eHmWFipnHqmSZpR8bIdtyIdmVry-fJVRIYMUi9fkmHjph-GeqLJ_Rs3pTrlB7jBp90CNjWY_TAO/s1600/258.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522454933202523858" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHTxNuJe2p4mGYsMIKyM_plKj4okyYtYDGgPuY9Ez8UZvYuNEoJPzLn5USNYbfBRq2-eHmWFipnHqmSZpR8bIdtyIdmVry-fJVRIYMUi9fkmHjph-GeqLJ_Rs3pTrlB7jBp90CNjWY_TAO/s320/258.JPG" border="0" /></a>s.)</p><p></p><p>Disznókö Tokaji Eszencia 2000: Medium brown colour, pronounced, youthful. Aromas of fresh grape juice, dried fruits (raisin, prune, fig), botrytis, herbs (mint), slightly medicinal, highly concentrated, luscious and viscous. (Disznókö only produces Eszencia in top years, which so far were 1993, 1999, 2000 and 2005. For the production method of this rare specialty, please see my first blog entry about the trip to Tokaji.)</p><p></p><br />You'll find more information about Disznókö under <a href="http://www.disznoko.hu/">http://www.disznoko.hu/</a><br /><br /><br /><br />Und hier sind einige meiner Verkostungsnotizen:<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p></p><p>2001 Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos: Tief goldgelbe Farbe. Jugendliche, ausgeprägte Nase. Aromen von Quitte, getrockneter Aprikose, Zitronenschale, Dill (typisch fürs Terroir), Botrytis und Akazienblüte. Hohe Säure, harmonisch, sehr gute Qualität. (2001 war ein recht verregneter Jahrgang, und die aszú Beeren wurden in durchgegärten Grundweinen mazeriert. In den besten Jahrgängen wie 2002, 2000 oder 1999 können sie stattdessen im gärenden Most mazeriert werden, was zu besseren Extraktionsergebnissen führt)</p><p></p><p>2000 Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos: Tief goldgelbe Farbe. Mittlere Intensität, beginnt gerade erst sich zu entwickeln. Üppig, mittlere+ Säure, Aromen von Pfirsich und gelber Pflaume, Honig, Wildblumen, würziger Vanille und einem Hauch von Karamell. Sehr gute Qualität, langer Abgang. (Nur in den besten Jahrgängen, wenn die aszú Trauben in gärendem Most mazeriert werden können, stellt Disznókö überhaupt Tokaji 6 puttonyos her. Nach einer warmen und trockenen Vegetationsperiode im Jahr 2000 wurden die Aszú Beeren - aus 75% Furmint und 25% Zeta - in gärendem Most aus Hárslevelü und Furmint 3 Tage lang mazeriert. Anschließend wurde der Wein 2 1/2 Jahre lang in Eichenholzfässern gereift.</p><p> </p><p>1999 Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos: Tief bernsteinfarben. Mittlere Intensität, entwickelt sich. Üppig, hohe Säure, kräuterwürzig (Dill), Honig, Botrytis, getrocknete Aprikosen, geriebene Orangenschale, mineralisch, Karamell, Schokolade. Komplex und lang anhaltend. Hervorragend.(1999 war ein klassischer Tokaji Jahrgang, vermutlich der Beste der 90er. Trockener, heißer Sommer, frühe Reife der Trauben, welche sowohl extrem konzentrierte Aromen als auch eine besonders gut erhaltene Säurestruktur aufwiesen.)</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />1993 Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos: Tiefe Bernsteinfarbe. Mittlere Intensität, entwickelt sich. Üppig, mittlere+ Säure, Trockenfrüchte (Rosine, Feige, Aprikose, Trockenpflaume, Dattel), Erdbeermarmelade, Minze, Karamell, Tabakblätter, Walnuss, herzhaft-fleischige Noten. Komplex, harmonisch und langer Abgang, hervorragend! (Großartiger Jahrgang, der auch eine historische Bedeutung für das Weingut hat, da es sich um den ersten Jahrgang unter neuer Leitung von AXA Millésimes handelt.)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />2000 Disznókö Tokaji Eszencia: Mittleres braun an Farbe. Ausgeprägte Aromaintensität, jugendlich. Aromen von frischem Traubensaft, Trockenobst (Rosine, Pflaume, Feige), Botrytis, kräutrig (Minze), leicht medizinisch, hochkonzentriert, üppig, zähflüssig. (Disznókö stellt Eszencia nur in den besten Jahren her, d.h. bislang von den Jahrgängen 1993, 1999, 2000 und 2005. Die Produktionsmethode dieser seltenen Spezialität ist in meinem ersten Blogeintrag über die Reise nach Tokaji enthalten).<br /><p></p><p>Weitere Informationen über Disznókö finden Sie unter <a href="http://www.disznoko.hu/">http://www.disznoko.hu/</a>.</p>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-43641396694977212332010-09-20T15:50:00.000-07:002010-11-30T09:35:19.722-08:00The Royal Tokaji Wine Company<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWW8Jo5LrZwS4-g4LQ5VnhJy176wxd57zlZMzAPuNXZNVDP22vaFeSq2h_kNP7hBP3NP1luOYyxPVspez7TcfsaBbH3BXtZdIvgxu4S5WBqIfCSboGXnji-GOL0X49sfmKezE4v-ksty0/s1600/212.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522443045324540978" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWW8Jo5LrZwS4-g4LQ5VnhJy176wxd57zlZMzAPuNXZNVDP22vaFeSq2h_kNP7hBP3NP1luOYyxPVspez7TcfsaBbH3BXtZdIvgxu4S5WBqIfCSboGXnji-GOL0X49sfmKezE4v-ksty0/s400/212.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Founded in 1990, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company pioneered in the field of re-vitalizing the Tokaj region, right after privatisation of estates was prompted by the Hungarian government. In the first years, they had to work from scratch, as much of the traditional knowledge (and tricks) to produce high-quality aszú wines had been lost in the course of the communist era, and was only recovered bit by bit, investigating old archives and learning from the few old-established Tokaji family estates who had not surrendered to high volume production and made sure to pass down their know-how to the next generation (István Szepsy was one of the company's most important human assets thos<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9v35ol2TulOZj9fGu7zv-aVkF4O9kir92W2gieHlj5OrFCheNpmQZVYfOZn6xWUkR6lEl3SR8rFvhX53WINtUR3wXd3cJfiOfTs1H5-9F6zhLHyEeOmmfLDlAvhOs_1PsyotvNU3GZQR/s1600/170.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522444311752756706" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9v35ol2TulOZj9fGu7zv-aVkF4O9kir92W2gieHlj5OrFCheNpmQZVYfOZn6xWUkR6lEl3SR8rFvhX53WINtUR3wXd3cJfiOfTs1H5-9F6zhLHyEeOmmfLDlAvhOs_1PsyotvNU3GZQR/s320/170.JPG" border="0" /></a>e days). Luckily, the region's highest quality grape, Furmint, is also the most vigorous and viticulturally reliable one, in order that many plantings remained and virtual miracles could be achieved quality-wise just by restricting yields (and thus concentrating aromas).<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Im Jahr 1990 gegründet, nahm die Royal Tokaji Wine Company eine Vorreiterrolle bei der Wiederbelebung der Region um Tokaj ein. In den ersten Jahren musste quasi ganz von vorn begonnen werden, da ein Großteil der traditionellen Fachkenntnisse (und Tricks) für die Herstellung hochwertiger Aszú-Weine im Laufe der kommunistischen Ära verloren gegangen war. Nur nach und nach konnte es aus alten Archivaufzeichnungen wiedergewonnen werden, und auch mithilfe der wenigen alteingesessene Familienweingüter in Tokaji, welche sich nicht der 0815-Produktion ergeben hatten, sondern sicherstellten, dass sie ihr Wissen an die nächste Generation weitergaben (so war István Szepsy damals einer der wichtigsten menschlichen Erfolgsfaktoren der Royal Tokaji Wine Company). Glücklicherweise ist die qualitativ hochwertigste Rebsore der Region, Furmint, auch gleichzeitig die ertragsreichste und im Weinberg unproblematischste, so dass viele Pflanzungen erhalten geblieben waren und ware Wunder allein dadurch bewirkt werden konnten, die Erträge zu senken (und damit Aromen zu konzentrieren).<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522452568895138114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgik_zmR-_H2LnAbHqQzivhyUkBVGca7hqHkUtYVPWOr8MVDJROwtuTw1xrFGyIIkI-51vSO7n6Rgv6kfSf5Ai4gqb38E4rlJMld5NZZp39l1qSbpWP_8Ei5OCjdzVMLdwVU-FPCLUtCuVr/s320/177.JPG" border="0" /> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524151313176306290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5S4ZB2AphweBf1J0wW2WIJTOI7OzsEb7Pgg2xTd42ZxWn-wTgyrk_k0D9oXdkBHrVX5wxcHp8TpyVg24mrLcXKvNXDut0dUCVatic6LkwHWLPEbeitC7coxsRxVH-evIISp370gzKEoWx/s320/riverbodrog.jpg" border="0" /><br />Morning mists at Bodrog river. Morgendlicher Nebel am Fluss Bodrog.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Nevertheless, essential investments were very high: Many of the best sites (on steep slopes) had been abandoned (as they had been too labour and cost intensive for communist everyday production), so needed (and still need!) to be replanted. Because of botrytis, yields are relatively low anyway, but for quality reasons they were restricted (by green harvest) and today one vine produces only 1 glass of wine on average.<br /><br /><br /><br />Wine-making technology and cellar capacity were insufficient and had to be renewed. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company built their new fermentation cellar on the same spot, where the previous vintage had been vinified in the old cellar, so had just a few months time for the whole tear down-reconstruct project to finish in time for the next harvest.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>Trotzdem waren die notwendigen Investitionen sehr hoch: Viele der besten (Steil-)Lagen waren verlassen worden (da sie sich dem Kommunistischen Regime als zu arbeits- und kostenintensiv erwiesen hatten), und mussten (bzw. müssen immer noch!) neu angelegt werden. Die aufgrund von Edelfäule sowieso schon geringen Erträge wurden aus Qualitätsgründen drastisch verringert (durch grüne Lese), so dass pro Rebstock im Durchschnitt nur 1 Glas Wein gewonnen wird. </p><br />Kellertechnologien und -kapazitäten waren unzureichend und mussten erneuert werden. Die Royal Tokaji Wine Company baute ihren neuen Gärkeller an derselben Stelle, wo noch der Jahrgang zuvor im alten Keller vinifiziert worden war, so dass nur wenige Monate für das gesamte Abriss-Neubau-Projekt blieben und rechtzeitig zum Beginn der nächsten Lese fertig zu werden.<br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHsVwU-6VV_MldekQRmbD-08OvfIYIhXmZ81tRX7DEUAYBdQ19rdSMkKB83JIFp85vqKwPLAEjTFbI4wubWunHO5mOi3jm0thdDDN_1bNca560vksm4Djtdx8VhQSkRHF91QY74KFwmDb/s1600/145.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522449753144727058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHsVwU-6VV_MldekQRmbD-08OvfIYIhXmZ81tRX7DEUAYBdQ19rdSMkKB83JIFp85vqKwPLAEjTFbI4wubWunHO5mOi3jm0thdDDN_1bNca560vksm4Djtdx8VhQSkRHF91QY74KFwmDb/s320/145.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl8V-KmbbvwEFtKIUMtqWWYg3jqTrxtjivfQHSlfqO8vthsFQnWuHMuia5W37NaeydCleQaQzfnYfbYYPEkRVog2hlMD4fxrJK0Z2lJylawVVcxNWc936F2uDxYsrVovZxZp6puWxmpg-_/s1600/144.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522449222733014498" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl8V-KmbbvwEFtKIUMtqWWYg3jqTrxtjivfQHSlfqO8vthsFQnWuHMuia5W37NaeydCleQaQzfnYfbYYPEkRVog2hlMD4fxrJK0Z2lJylawVVcxNWc936F2uDxYsrVovZxZp6puWxmpg-_/s200/144.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p></p>Above: The newly constructed winery buildings.<br />Oben: Die neu gebauten Kellergebäude.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl9Rq49Qcoh_uVsU74zuCN07Hrmyh_aGCJQZgn27Rn8fVqw-sS3la_YCnqWy4QeKISKH60ph8DItSDog1jX7HhalFFf9TGc5ldt0URsJCEtSUMbWUNbZbd6ZgzuULMTIGi6WatLPSO79zs/s1600/151.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522448414540601026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl9Rq49Qcoh_uVsU74zuCN07Hrmyh_aGCJQZgn27Rn8fVqw-sS3la_YCnqWy4QeKISKH60ph8DItSDog1jX7HhalFFf9TGc5ldt0URsJCEtSUMbWUNbZbd6ZgzuULMTIGi6WatLPSO79zs/s400/151.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Left: 3-story construction in the cellar. Grapes arrive on top level and as from then are moved by gravity only.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Links: 3-geschossige Konstruktion im Keller. Die Trauben kommen auf dem obersten Level an und werden fortan allein durch Schwerkraft bewegt.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Furthermore, by legislation aszú wines need to be matured for three years in barrel and another year in bottle. And the higher the quality aspirations, the longer this minimum period of ageing is usually exceeded voluntarily by the winery. The quality aspirations of the Royal Tokaji Wine Company were the highest, from the very beginning.<br /><br /><br /><br />This maturation time costs considerable amounts of money, locks up capital and prolongates revenues. Most of the original investors had under-estimated the time needed to establish a Tokaji estate and over-estimated a speedy ROI. Thus the Royal Tokaji Wine Company has already sailed through some troubled waters...<br /><br /><br /><p>The calming and constant element in all this time was Hugh Johnson, pioneer and co-founder. And with the current constellation of shareholders and brilliant team working at the winery, the estate seems appeased and can now entirely focus on production and sales of their precious products. And on the latest project: A visitor centre, which will enable the estate to welcome more guests than before and also open their doors for tourists. It is still in its very beginnings, but planned to open next summer already.</p><br /><br />Außerdem ist für Aszú Weine eine Mindestlagerzeit von 3 Jahren im Fass und einem weiteren Jahr in der Flasche gesetzlich geregelt. Und je höher die Qualitätsbestrebungen, desto länger wird diese Mindestreifezeit in der Regel von den Weingütern freiwillig überschritten. Die Qualitätsbestrebungen der Royal Tokaji Wine Company waren die höchsten, von Anfang an.<br /><br /><br /><p>Dieser Reifeprozess kostet stattliche Summen an Geld, bindet Kapital und verzögert die Einnahme von Verkaufserlösen. Die meisten Investoren hatten die Zeit, die es brauchen würde, ein Weingut in Tokaji aufzubauen unterschätzt und die Aussicht auf eine schnelle Rendite überschätzt. Daher hat die Royal Tokaji Wine Company bereits so manchen Sturm hinter sich...</p><br /><p>Das ruhige und konstante Element über all die Zeit war Hugh Johnson, Pionier und Mitbegründer. Und mit der aktuellen Konstellation von Aktionären und einem brillianten Mitarbeiterstamm kann das Weingut sich nun ganz auf Produktion und Verkauf des kostbaren Rebsaftes konzentrieren. Und auf das neueste Projekt: Ein Besucherzentrum, das es dem Weingut ermöglichen soll, mehr Gäste als bislang zu empfangen und seine Türen auch dem Tourismus zu öffnen. Noch ist es in der Anfangsphase, doch bereits zum nächsten Sommer hin soll es eingeweiht werden.<br /></p><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDr5K5x-8qexdhjUfk-PiUmKKBMUih2NgO_YJqAD4acZDL_JBR-TLSawlGlirNCblOSFXXbQ9BZe7_MqykvPxz3H4LsldMTQ7vG9VD3G3N1snZJFkjCxCoxUtpW6887Ik3FGiZyjEPJrRB/s1600/211.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522443379750549570" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDr5K5x-8qexdhjUfk-PiUmKKBMUih2NgO_YJqAD4acZDL_JBR-TLSawlGlirNCblOSFXXbQ9BZe7_MqykvPxz3H4LsldMTQ7vG9VD3G3N1snZJFkjCxCoxUtpW6887Ik3FGiZyjEPJrRB/s320/211.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />A bust of Hugh in the estate's yard, a cordial monument of honour.<br /><br /><br /><br />Eine Büste von Hugh im Hof des Weinguts, ein wahres Ehrendenkmal von Herzen.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQg187iXUhYu1RZxU0JrxYy-VtQ7dI0zIIYe1_YBUGmJrRzaRsVtcEHL_R-d75jXGWXIMHRR1Y8fShmgKKQZRnsb42Cvb1f_3k9EpS0-qWlVQUekWe8cSgboWSwTNh8SGNvvXgGq8ZP4vk/s1600/142.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522821437329314834" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQg187iXUhYu1RZxU0JrxYy-VtQ7dI0zIIYe1_YBUGmJrRzaRsVtcEHL_R-d75jXGWXIMHRR1Y8fShmgKKQZRnsb42Cvb1f_3k9EpS0-qWlVQUekWe8cSgboWSwTNh8SGNvvXgGq8ZP4vk/s320/142.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />István Turoczi, Managing Director and fantastic host during my trip.<br /><br /><br />István Turoczi, Geschäftsführer und fabelhafter Gastgeber während meines Aufenthaltes.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQxvJBYkMllrWPsIFtXDrV6UP-AikGG01MuSR4OG6oCkdM62x0tm9kTMM_UJyGc_BFTAlruCM7XmeKrSt2y8wy_Ahyphenhyphen_GFDSDfh1AbNhqqbnNrl2053MgNLNDefouiIjTI9qNTzc3TIIy3/s1600/227.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522440739732999442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQxvJBYkMllrWPsIFtXDrV6UP-AikGG01MuSR4OG6oCkdM62x0tm9kTMM_UJyGc_BFTAlruCM7XmeKrSt2y8wy_Ahyphenhyphen_GFDSDfh1AbNhqqbnNrl2053MgNLNDefouiIjTI9qNTzc3TIIy3/s320/227.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Zsuzsanna Tombacz, Marketing and Sales Assistant, organizer and another fantastic host<br /><br /><br />Zsuzsanna Tombacz, Marketing- und Vetriebsassistentin, Organisatorin und ebenfalls fabelhafte Gastgeberin<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />This would have been also a good spot for placing a picture of Károly Áts, the estate's winemaker since 1994, but unfortunately he is a bit shy towards non-Hungarian speaking foreigners... (Zsuzsa, maybe you can help me out here with one of the pics from your picture databank?)<br /><br /><br /><br /><p>It was Károly (nicknamed Karcsi), who shaped the style of Áts Cuvée, an aromatic late harvest wine made from approx. 75% Furmint, 15% Muscat and 10% Hárslevelü (varying by vintage). It regularly shows ripe peach and apricot flavours, tropical mango and pineapple fruit as well as notes of honey and botrytis. The varieties are fermented separately in stainless steel vats, then aged in oak barrels and only blending just before bottling. Áts Cuvée is becoming increasingly popular world-wide (in Hungary it has almost reached cult status), is ready for immediate comsumption after release, but capable of ageing a few years without falling apart or losing its attraction.<br /></p><br /><br /><p>Auf ein Foto von Károly Áts, seit 1994 Royal Tokajis Kellermeister, müssen wir noch ein wenig warten...</p><br /><p>Es war Károly Áts (genannt Karcsi), der den Stil der Áts Cuvée geformt hat, einer aromatischen Spätlese aus ungefähr 75% Furmint, 15% Muscat und 10% Hárslevelü (jahrgangsabhängig). Sie zeigt regelmäßig reife Pfirsich- und Aprikosenaromen, tropische Mango und Ananas sowie Noten von Honig und Botrytis. Die Grundweine werden, nach Rebsorten getrennt, in Edelstahltanks vergoren, dann für einige Monate in Eichenholzfässern gereift und erst kurz vor der Füllung verschnitten. Áts Cuvée wird weltweit immer beliebter (hat in Ungarn sogar bereits Kultstatus erzielt), ist direkt trinkreif, kann aber auch noch ein paar Jahre gelagert werden, ohne an Attraktivität einzubüßen. </p><br /><br />The Royal Tokaji Wine Company owns 107 ha of vineyards, including some of the region's best sites, rated Primae Classis in the 1700 classification (please see my previous blog entry). Approx. 70% of the vineyards are planted with Furmint, 25% with Harslevelü and 5% with Muscat de Lunel.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYeIE6WYuSiQFEifeD_Jahkvp2JKWdXSDHrpRHA74rp3wu2e3rLO6xCwz_RAd1iQahbZGx4spZE1-s832bf8fH-UxlN74h3ZC-07Qu0k5WfJgpc4W717847b1KCrlTLd8sC2YqunT4tU7/s1600/137.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522450869932393474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYeIE6WYuSiQFEifeD_Jahkvp2JKWdXSDHrpRHA74rp3wu2e3rLO6xCwz_RAd1iQahbZGx4spZE1-s832bf8fH-UxlN74h3ZC-07Qu0k5WfJgpc4W717847b1KCrlTLd8sC2YqunT4tU7/s200/137.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The concept of terroir is very important to the estate, and from the very beginning, single vineyard bottlings took centre stage.<br /><br /><br />Die Royal Tokaji Wine Company besitzt 107 ha Weinberge, darunter einige der Besten der Region, welche 1700 als erste Lagen klassifiziert worden sind (vgl. den letzten Blogeintrag). Ca. 70% der Rebfläche ist mit Furmint bepflanzt, 25% mit Hárslevelü und 5% mit Muscat de Lunel.<br />Das Konzept von Terroir war dem Weingut von Anfang an sehr wichtig, und die Abfüllung von Weinen aus Einzellagen steht seit jeher im Mittelpunkt.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><strong>Birsalmás</strong> is Hungarian for „quince“ and nomen est omen for this small secundae classis vineyard in Mád. From 0.5 ha south-east facing gentle slopes, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company produces an average of 1,800 bottles of 5 puttonyos single vineyard aszú wines per vintage, which are regularly reminiscent of quince and mint aromas (along with honey, apricot and honeydew melon so typical for the Tokaji aszú wine style).<br /><br /><br /><br /><p><strong>Birsalmás</strong> ist Ungarisch für "Quitte" und Nomen est Omen für diese kleine secundae classis Lage in Mád. Von den 0.5 ha süd-ostlicher Hanglage produziert die Royal Tokaji Wine Company pro Jahrgang durchschnittlich 1.800 Flaschen 5 puttonyos aszú Wein, der regelmäßig an Quitte und Minze erinnert (zusätzlich zu den anderen für Tokaji Weine so typischen Aromen wie Honig, Aprikose und Hongmelone).</p><br /><p></p><br /><br /><br /><strong>Betsek</strong> is named after an old Magyar family, which used to be prominent in the Tokaj region. It is also situated in Mád, but on a hill to the south-east of the village. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company currently owns 16 ha of this first growth vineyard, which generates 6 puttonyos aszú wines with a particularly high acidity (perceived as particularly refreshing in the luscious aszú wines). The soil is black volcanic (called nyirok)<strong><span style="color:#990000;">*</span></strong> and also creates a characteristic pungent s<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fRrNbXRSkoykmSNkIr6M63ol0RMCpRni-AvTZDz3QA0i9r4vGg9N59fYnb4cBYtNG-Ul5l3lLthGCF6Pra_HcI7sGzpYPnHy8s3sYm-zh5SipmWLsxjCXk5XcHgI78EEO7FOj6qjKW_O/s1600/Betsek.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524151220137649234" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 212px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6fRrNbXRSkoykmSNkIr6M63ol0RMCpRni-AvTZDz3QA0i9r4vGg9N59fYnb4cBYtNG-Ul5l3lLthGCF6Pra_HcI7sGzpYPnHy8s3sYm-zh5SipmWLsxjCXk5XcHgI78EEO7FOj6qjKW_O/s320/Betsek.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_k-gRZ4i2Lt1CD-VIG9TVFHXxEOyrOm-pxvWOd0vmEc7pJcAhuxiT99TvX0Swp4hWDVLcyYkDxven97x8XsgcM7EoBMsJ06sNBUvf5OapGnrd7udpDVkB3wrfiXIizVLOh1xR_Yu82sn/s1600/143.JPG"></a>piciness (black pepper) and peppermint aromas in the wines.<br /><br /><br /><br /><strong>Betsek</strong> ist nach einer alten Magyarenfamilie benannt, welche in früheren Zeiten Bedeutung in der Region um Tokaj erlangt hatte. Betsek liegt auch in Mád, aber auf einem Hügel im Südosten des Dorfes. Die Royal Tokaji Wine Company besitzt derzeit 16 ha dieser ersten großen Lage, welche 6 puttonyos aszú Weine mit einer besonders markanten Säure hervorbringt (und als besonders erfrischend unter den üppigen Aszú Weinen wahrgenommen wird). Der Boden ist schwarzes Vulkangestein (Nyirok genannte)<strong><span style="color:#990000;">*</span></strong>, und neben der besonders hohen Säure sind scharfe Gewürze (schwarzer Pfeffer) und Pfefferminzaromen charakteristisch für die Weine.<br /><br /><p><br /><br /></p><p></p><strong>Nyúlászó</strong> may not be easy to pronounce (try Nee-you-la-sho), but the wines are definitely worth the pain „to catch hares“ (that’s what Nyúlászó actually means). Close to Betsek (which, as you will remember, has black volcanic soil), the soil here is red volcanic with some loess pockets. The red colour hints at a former source of magma streams in its immediate proximity, in order that it was still burning hot when sedimenting and its iron content slowly combining with the air’s oxygen whilst cooling down. This chemical reaction results in a high content of iron minerals with the distintive red colour. (<span style="color:#cc0000;"><strong>*</strong></span> Black volcanic soil indicates that the lava was blown up high into the air and flew a long way, cooling down in a mix with ashes until landing and settling, without any chance for the lava’s iron to combine with O2). Nyúlászó produces very elegant, floral<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkNjT8UbkPVmtsu-1tm49PB1S1pUsem5qwWBn2VS9Z413yHgDoQmsryBTOGrivEfZkbrgCNPnTcYHf6xvLdoubW8ZJPaBA8az6seo95KaYMxuBBgCXoFl3mBr6xbdGiNgqFZ2v6Jya7xN/s1600/135.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522450595799895634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkNjT8UbkPVmtsu-1tm49PB1S1pUsem5qwWBn2VS9Z413yHgDoQmsryBTOGrivEfZkbrgCNPnTcYHf6xvLdoubW8ZJPaBA8az6seo95KaYMxuBBgCXoFl3mBr6xbdGiNgqFZ2v6Jya7xN/s400/135.JPG" border="0" /></a>-perfumed, mineral-driven, slightly earthy and highly complex 6 puttonyos aszú wines, which render it one of the most sought-after first growth vineyards of Tokaji.<br /><br /><p></p><p></p><br /><br /><p><strong>Nyúlászó</strong> mag vielleicht nicht leicht auszusprechen sein (versuchen Sie's mal mit Nie-ju-la-scho), aber die Weine sind definitiv die Mühe wert "Hasen zu jagen" (so die Übersetzung von Nyúlászó). Nahe Betsek (welcher, wie Sie sich erinnern werden, aus schwarzem Vulkanboden besteht), ist der Boden hier rot-vulkanisch mit ein paar Loess-Taschen. Die rote Farbe deutet auf eine frühere Quelle von Magmaströmen in unmittelbarer Nähe hin, so dass die Lava noch glühend heiß war, als sie sich absetzte und ihr Eisengehalt sich beim Abkühlen langsam mit dem Luftsauerstoff verbinden konnte. Diese chemische Reaktion resultiert in einem hohen Anteil an eisenhaltigen Mineralien mit der unverkennbaren roten Farbe. (<span style="color:#990000;">*</span> Schwarzes Vulkangestein hingegen deutet darauf hin, dass die Lava hoch in die Luft geschleudert worden und einen weiten Weg geflogen ist, währenddessen sie in einem Gemisch mit Asche abkühlen konnte, bevor sie sich schließlich absetzte, ohne vorab mit Sauerstoff in Berührung zu kommen). Aus der Nyúlászó-Lage stammen sehr elegante, floral duftende, mineralisch-erdige und komplexe 6 puttonyos Aszú Weine, welche die Lage zu einer begehrtesten in ganz Tokaji machen.</p><br /><p></p><br /><br /><br /><p>Another 6 puttonyos aszú wine is made from 12 ha <strong>Szt. Tamás</strong>, a classified 1st growth situated right next to Nyúlászó. The apricot notes typical for Tokaji wines are of pronounced intensity in wines from this site, and there are usually smoky tobacco and mineral notes to be found as well. </p><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgasRVSVGVauUw9EamMVygSAFlE10xmamVEcGKDfiCOu0TqIF5od_ERWdnY90EFdrqOhwHBXlhw0XnJQ4QUxNdOVrOnRvEf7BKVRTydD5HCiEJoJrYWfHIhTeEvGUieG-4nhNNiyrrGSOdU/s1600/SztTamas.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524151492778093810" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgasRVSVGVauUw9EamMVygSAFlE10xmamVEcGKDfiCOu0TqIF5od_ERWdnY90EFdrqOhwHBXlhw0XnJQ4QUxNdOVrOnRvEf7BKVRTydD5HCiEJoJrYWfHIhTeEvGUieG-4nhNNiyrrGSOdU/s320/SztTamas.jpg" border="0" /></a>Ein weiterer 6 puttonyos aszú Wein stammt vom 12 ha großen <strong>Szt. Tamás</strong>, einer klassifizierten ersten Lage gleich neben Nyúlászó gelegen. Die Tokaji-typischen Aprikosennoten sind besonders intensiv in Weinen aus diesem Weinberg, normalerweise begleitet von rauchigen Tabak- sowie mineralischen Noten.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p>Royal Tokaji fans can prepare for a new site to be spoken of in a few years time: Having been abandoned during communist regime for being unprofitable, it was MD István Turoczi who initiated the re-planting of classified first growth <strong>Úrágya</strong> (= God’s Bed) a few years ago. The name was awarded for its appearance, a small clearance in the middle of the forest on top of a hill next to Mád village, close to the clouds, and best seen from Szt. Tamás vineyard opposite of it. After the first harvest in 2009, the nectar of this adorable site is currently well hidden in Royal Tokaji’s deep cellars, but the barrel sample showing promise to develop into one of the best best Dry Furmints ever.<br /><br /></p><p>Royal Tokaji Fans aufgepasst: In ein paar Jahren wird eine neue Lage von sich Reden machen. Nachdem sie während des Kommunistischen Regimes aufgegeben worden war, weil unprofitabel, hat Geschäftsführer István Turoczi vor einigen Jahren die Neubepflanzung der 1. Lage <strong>Úrágya</strong> (= Gottes Bett) initiiert. Den Namen hat der Weinberg aufgrund seines Aussehens erhalten, eine kleine Lichtung mitten im Wald auf einem Hügel neben dem Dorf Mád, nahe den Wolken, und am Besten vom gegenüberliegenden Szt. Tamás aus zu sehen. Nach der ersten Lese 2009 reift der trockene Furmint dieser anbetungswürdigen Lage derzeit wohl versteckt in Royal Tokaji's tiefen Kellergewölben. Aber die Fassprobe war vielversprechend und könnte sich sogar zu meinem Lieblingswein unter allen trockenen Tokaji Weinen entwickeln.</p><br /><br /><br /><br />Last but not least, <strong>Mézes Mály</strong> (literally: „honeycomb“), a south-facing first growth site in the commune of Tarcal, reliably gives very concentrated 6 putton<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9iUSLxgou7iGclpR1Vn8qBm1lc1TDctHDHWqOSVbNX__ZzUsC6Wr4F_D2OHYNRijK_fdykgPOMfvvW8FeY_0pWDG2qUKrJavMzooH9p1C6ySkof5ySWPRqcJMSA2oQvXKtlrt-sn4-b4_/s1600/MMhouse.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5524151090840421586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9iUSLxgou7iGclpR1Vn8qBm1lc1TDctHDHWqOSVbNX__ZzUsC6Wr4F_D2OHYNRijK_fdykgPOMfvvW8FeY_0pWDG2qUKrJavMzooH9p1C6ySkof5ySWPRqcJMSA2oQvXKtlrt-sn4-b4_/s320/MMhouse.jpg" border="0" /></a>yos aszú wines with a perfect balance between residual sugar and acidity. Because of their very classic style, the wines from this site are also used as basis for the 5 and 6 puttonyos blended house styles (Blue and Gold Labels). The vineyard’s total of 19 ha are jointly owned by Hugh Johnson and the Royal Tokaji Wine Company.<br /><br /><br />Last but not least ist da noch <strong>Mézes Mály</strong> (wörtlich übersetzt: "Honigwabe"), eine nach Süden ausgerichtete 1. große Lage in der Gemeinde Tarcal, welche zuverlässig hochkonzentrierte 6 puttonyos aszú Weine mit einer perfekten Harmonie zwischen Restzucker und Säure liefert. Wegen des sehr klassischen Stils werden die Weine auch als Basis für die 5 und 6 puttonyos Hausweine (Blaue und Goldene Marke) verschnitten. Der Weinberg von insgesamt 19 ha befindet sich im Gemeinschaftsbesitz von Hugh Johnson und der Royal Tokaji Wine Company.<br /><br /><div><div><div><div><br /><div><div><div><div><br /><br /><div>Royal Tokaji uses a special indigenous yield string, which is now exclusively cultivated for them and inoculated to the must. No matter how high the residual sugar, no matter how high the degree of botrytis: This yeast string ferments everything you want (and you better want everything to ferment, because otherwise it would just be fermented anyway, without chilling down or adding SO2 being of any help worth mentioning). And then, without any prior warning, it would stop naturally at the point nature deems perfect for the wine and vintage (with high residual sugar contents remaining and the ABV being as low as 10-11% vol.!). And the winery team would generally agree, not only because they could not do anything about it anyway, but because they genuinely find the balance to be just right. Balance is the key word in Tokaji: Firstly in the grapes, which have a hang-time as long as necessary for optimal ripeness (a gamble in wet vintages like 2010) and thus an acidity level low enough to waive the malo (and thus preserve a maximum of primary aromas). And secondly in the wine, where the right degree of acidity is needed to counter-balance the high residual sugar content. So Mama Nature knows what is best of course! Sounds easy, does it not? Well, actually, I am sure that it must be much harder than the team wanted to admit, but they did have quite a learning curve at the beginning indeed, and can now pretty much rely on their experience and intuition for aszú wine production. (Their ambitions for a premium dry Furmint with high ageing potential are a different story, though, here they are still experimenting and trying to improve every year).<br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div>Royal Tokaji benutzt einen speziellen indigenen Hefestrang, der nun aber exklusiv für das Weingut gezüchtet wird und dem Most eingeimpft wird. Egal, wie hoch der Restzuckergehalt, und egal, wie hoch der Anteil an Botrytis: Dieser Hefestrang bringt alles zur Gärung (und besser für Sie, wenn Sie auch alles fermentieren möchten, denn sonst würde es einfach trotzdem gegen Ihren Willen gären, ohne dass Kühlung oder SO2 irgendetwas Nennenswertes ausrichten könnten). Und dann irgendwann, ohne Vorwarnung, hört die Gärung von allein wieder auf (obwohl immer noch reichlich Restzucker im Wein vorhanden ist und der Alkohol erst bei 10-11% vol. liegt!), und die Natur hat wieder mal den perfekten Zeitpunkt für Wein und Jahrgang bestimmt. Und das Team im Weingut stimmt in der Regel zu, nicht nur, weil ihnen ja eh nichts anderes übrig bleibt, sondern auch, weil der Wein tatsächlich harmonisch ist. Harmonie ist das Schlüsselwort in Tokaji: Zunächst in der Traube, die solange hängen gelassen wird, bis der optimale Reifegrad erreicht ist (ein wahres Glücksspiel in Jahrgängen wie 2010) und auf die Milchsäuregärung verzichtet werden kann (womit ein Maximum an Primäraromen erhalten bleibt). Und dann im Wein, wo die Säure dafür sorgt, dass der hohe Restzucker nicht am Gaumen kleben bleibt. Und Mutter Natur weiß natürlich, was am Besten ist! Klingt doch ganz einfach, oder? Nun, ich bin mir sicher, dass es dann doch deutlich schwieriger ist, als es das Team zugeben mochte, aber es hatte anfangs natürlich eine ziemlich steile Lernkurve und kann sich mittlerweile sehr auf die eigene Erfahrung und Intuition verlassen, wenn es um die Herstellung von Aszú-Weinen geht. (Anders sieht es da beim Premium Furmint trocken mit hohem Reifepotenzial aus, da wird noch eifrig experimentiert und jedes Jahr etwas verbessert).</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>During my visit to Royal Tokaji Wine Company I was invited to two outstanding tastings. The first one took part in the underground cellar system.</div><br /><div><br />Während meines Besuchs bei der Royal Tokaji Wine Company durfte ich an 2 herausragenden Verkostungen teilnehmen. Die erste fand in den unterirdischen Gewölbegängen statt. </div><div><div><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnifSkiZaPUsMslFTprcBmCxYkN-_5Y4kl60Q6ll8Mtwsf7aNexcNWejPnEFZUNdjBN1A1zRCeyPBTiP3RSL5dlKiQT4wvKJZht9b-JvL3NE2vxh5L6AxW78ynSYCi7Aruz_470fIAjMp/s1600/155.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522447602657002386" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnifSkiZaPUsMslFTprcBmCxYkN-_5Y4kl60Q6ll8Mtwsf7aNexcNWejPnEFZUNdjBN1A1zRCeyPBTiP3RSL5dlKiQT4wvKJZht9b-JvL3NE2vxh5L6AxW78ynSYCi7Aruz_470fIAjMp/s200/155.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This portal is the entrance to Royal Tokaji's underground paradise.</div><br /><br /><div>Dies ist der Eingang zu Royal Tokajis unterirdischem Paradies.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqG82zZpCYTctcp8HQ4O6WK0Wfc2WCT0y98ZKQBMiWVYhMOWPxIUdKVz_s5OU3iZizzGqQRjpnDFsddv3t0JjZFMFg_exYD5305KlNO_AkQwqJ20M47JFPd00VtooWlnm5g4H3xUvwfMKP/s1600/156.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522447156567168178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqG82zZpCYTctcp8HQ4O6WK0Wfc2WCT0y98ZKQBMiWVYhMOWPxIUdKVz_s5OU3iZizzGqQRjpnDFsddv3t0JjZFMFg_exYD5305KlNO_AkQwqJ20M47JFPd00VtooWlnm5g4H3xUvwfMKP/s200/156.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0UiQCcuW5EcFzB2DBqNQAYfXGCn_Gi8RktwUaP3MaMu1WIpTFMDveq-GFJ7xx8LjBUVtCdumckzJfvd5x14PjpJB5urStCmTLLdp44rNWjIu_TTKgLHDMu_37eP4hWboAKOmH6Pbo5iK4/s1600/157.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522446486669987058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0UiQCcuW5EcFzB2DBqNQAYfXGCn_Gi8RktwUaP3MaMu1WIpTFMDveq-GFJ7xx8LjBUVtCdumckzJfvd5x14PjpJB5urStCmTLLdp44rNWjIu_TTKgLHDMu_37eP4hWboAKOmH6Pbo5iK4/s320/157.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Royal Tokaji's wines are aged here in barrels of different sizes made from Hungarian oak.<br /><br />Hier werden die Royal Tokaji Weine gereift, in Fässern aus Ungarischer Eiche verschiedener Größe.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMMLsXRxIOLktCury1PGUDFkMWKqN68P5jMjgQtTPpqeDmsb2v1lUX1J8g40FpdChkHAXxDzzGF-3PqWcAEkpPUuwyr1W7lQvXal9aUUZLf7YiAzJ663M2yXDV0JqYE5ED15jniAncDnuK/s1600/164.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5523557539857992354" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMMLsXRxIOLktCury1PGUDFkMWKqN68P5jMjgQtTPpqeDmsb2v1lUX1J8g40FpdChkHAXxDzzGF-3PqWcAEkpPUuwyr1W7lQvXal9aUUZLf7YiAzJ663M2yXDV0JqYE5ED15jniAncDnuK/s320/164.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />I had the chance to taste the following barrel samples: Mézes Mály Dry Furmint 2009 (wild flowers, ripe apples, vanilla, toffee, butterscotch), Szt. Tamás Dry Furmint 2009 in new oak (ripe peach, oaky vanilla), Szt. Tamás Dry Furmint 2009 in a two-year old barrel (grapefruit, more backbone), Urágya Dry Furmint 2009 (first vintage as per above, dry, high acidity, rich texture, complex, tropical fruit / pineapple, oaky vanilla). The different dry Furmints will be blended just before bottling, no single vineyard wines sold of this (yet).</div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Blue Label 5 puttonyos 2009 and 2008 (house style already recognizable, well-balanced, dried fruits, apricot, peach, honey), Szt. Tamás 6 puttonyos aszú 2008 from barrels with different toast levels (luscious, high acidity, dried apricot, smoky notes), Nyúlászó 6 puttonyos 2008 (luscious, high acid, pronounced, spicy, racy-steely-mineral, honey, botrytis, marmelade, vanilla, full bodied).<br /><br /></div><br /><div>Ich hatte die Gelegenheit, folgende Fassproben zu verkosten: 2009 Mézes Mály Furmint trocken (Wildblumen, reifer Apfel, Vanille, Toffee, Karamell - wird im Jan/Feb 2011 gefüllt),<br />2009 Szt. Tamás Furmint trocken in neuem Fass (reifer Pfirsich, Vanilla und Eiche), 2009 Szt. Tamás Furmint trocken in zwei-Jahre altem Fass (Grapefruit, mehr Rückrat), 2009 Urágya 5 puttnoyos aszú (erster Jahrgang, vgl. oben, trocken, hohe Säure, reiche Textur, komplex, tropische Frucht / Ananas, süße Gewürze / Vanille). Die verschiedenen trockenen Furmints werden vor der Füllung verschnitten, (bislang) gibt es keine Einzellagenfüllung. </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>2009 und 2008 Blue Label 5 puttonyos (Hausstil bereits erkennbar, harmonisch, trockene Früchte, Aprikose, Pfirsich, Honig), 2008 Szt. Tamás 6 puttonyos aszú aus Fässern verschiedener Toastgrade (üppig, hohe Säure, trockene Aprikose, rauchige Noten), 2008 Nyúlászó 6 puttonyos aszú (üppig, hohe Sääure, kräftig, würzig, rassig-stahlig-mineralisch, Honig, Botrytis, Orangenmarmelade, Vanille).<br /><br /><br /></div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAkzg5wHg9sp-vwWR6TW8Rt2o1DmddjBE-CN4i0yCS2w4ZOJW-N_GgczFYyP_MLL0q7mqEHHB58fcsulbdXBZF2tPHBW6csFtlgKBMsRKccKdWQorgZl1uRpxCS4vme1lEgA461pZQzLI/s1600/161.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522445324686900786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbAkzg5wHg9sp-vwWR6TW8Rt2o1DmddjBE-CN4i0yCS2w4ZOJW-N_GgczFYyP_MLL0q7mqEHHB58fcsulbdXBZF2tPHBW6csFtlgKBMsRKccKdWQorgZl1uRpxCS4vme1lEgA461pZQzLI/s400/161.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD5SbGyM69Fg8jdMSXiP7FIsk8xJzVP581RcDvQYBW8l79kWpSQkYwuxKoi4057llSdz-HE_xnfXl7MeOBRi3-xgq4kK06aFqWjVwwFTO7-VGGbUiOqxMfeTtm1emNe_DNSjlBkdA_-oMF/s1600/165.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522445017486873714" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD5SbGyM69Fg8jdMSXiP7FIsk8xJzVP581RcDvQYBW8l79kWpSQkYwuxKoi4057llSdz-HE_xnfXl7MeOBRi3-xgq4kK06aFqWjVwwFTO7-VGGbUiOqxMfeTtm1emNe_DNSjlBkdA_-oMF/s400/165.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />I could have tasted all night long, but unfortunately I could not alienate the keys from István...<br /><br /><br />Ich hätte noch die ganze Nacht weiter verkosten können, aber leider, leider<br />konnte ich István den Schlüssel nicht abluchsen.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div>Luckily, there was another tasting the next morning (this time bottled wines).</div><div></div><br /><div>Zum Glück gab's am nächsten Morgen direkt die nächste Probe (diesmal gefüllte Weine).<br /></div><div><div><div><div><div><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSTJkjJIYC_9ydi2kWsUl3LtQI-Y4o-3xbinSJn3thAeGlcewD0DnFtBHqZ6VZDZhJ8cfZE8ee2f1Axg1Q2lIjTT9oF75itTZBFfQLm3ikTA1eeRPY7f5hMSQEnu4BBkzZFYu6DkFZfwI/s1600/218.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522442203254366370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSTJkjJIYC_9ydi2kWsUl3LtQI-Y4o-3xbinSJn3thAeGlcewD0DnFtBHqZ6VZDZhJ8cfZE8ee2f1Axg1Q2lIjTT9oF75itTZBFfQLm3ikTA1eeRPY7f5hMSQEnu4BBkzZFYu6DkFZfwI/s400/218.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiimgMZphMUN6gXW-cldTYIec9xFEoDetdI56oLPmhcosLspewS13-y49US3QVd7xhVoOh0o4r6rkfYCK6cBfzdZxkCEJsh1mAdseoN2dL3zaq3rrxY8ipi4nCncNwDpc54ykqMUm4SoOy/s1600/222.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522441854727378914" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiimgMZphMUN6gXW-cldTYIec9xFEoDetdI56oLPmhcosLspewS13-y49US3QVd7xhVoOh0o4r6rkfYCK6cBfzdZxkCEJsh1mAdseoN2dL3zaq3rrxY8ipi4nCncNwDpc54ykqMUm4SoOy/s320/222.JPG" border="0" /></a> We started with two vintages of Dry Furmint, 2009 (bottled just a few days before, youthful, with aromas of citrus and green apple, roasted almonds, oaky vanilla) and 2008 (quince, grapefruit, botrytis, oaky vanilla).</div><br /><div>And we started to talk about vintages: 2009 was fine for everything picked before 11.10. (like the grapes destined for dry Furmint) and a disaster for everything left on the vine after that - the rain would not stop until end of November... The tasting continued with Áts Cuvée Late Harvest 2009, which had been only bottled 1 week before and whoms grapes had just made it into the hod in time before the rain started. There were hardly any aszú wines produced in 2009.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div><br />Wir begannen mit zwei Jahrgängen des trockenen Furmints, 2009 (erst wenige Tage zuvor gefüllt, jung, mti Aromen von Zitrusfrüchten und grünem Apfel, gerösteten Mandeln, Vanille) und 2008 (Quitte, Grapefruit, Botrytis, Vanille). Und wir begannen, über Jahrgänge zu sprechen: 2009 war prima für alles, was vor dem 11.10. gelesen worden war (wie z.B. die Trauben, die für den trockenen Furmint gedacht waren), und ein Disaster für alles, was danach noch am Rebstock hing - der Regen hörte bis Ende November nicht mehr auf...<br />Es ging weiter mit der 2009 Áts Cuvée Late Harvest, die gerade eine Woche zuvor gefüllt worden war, und deren Trauben es auch noch gerade rechtzeitig in die Bütte geschafft hatten. Aszú Weine wurden 2009 so gut wie gar nicht produziert. </div><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><br /><br /><div>Next in the glass was Blue Label 5 puttonyos aszú 2006, a vintage with only low volume, as the summer was extremely dry until September in all of Hungary. Even though conditions were not so bad in Tokaji, bulk wine prices rose considerably within the country, and many growers in Tokaji decided to harvest their grapes before botrytis could develop and sell their wines in bulk instead to producers in other regions (the big players selling a lot of generic stuff). Those who did make aszú wines like Royal Tokaji, are very happy with the quality, as aromas are particularly concentrated.</div><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><br /><div>Als Nächstes kam 2006er Blue Label 5 puttonyos aszú ins Glas, ein Jahrgang mit nur geringer Menge, da der Sommer bis einschließlich September extrem trocken in ganz Ungarn war. Obwohl die Bedingungen in Tokaji insgesamt gar nicht so übel waren, stiegen die Fassweinpreise im Land erheblich an, und viele Winzer in Tokaji entschieden sich, ihre Trauben zu lesen, bevor sich Botrytis entwickeln konnte, um die Weine dann an die großen, in anderen Regionen ansässigen Firmen zu verkaufen (für die großen Marken generischer Weine). Diejenigen, die wie Royal Tokaji Aszú Weine produziert haben, freuen sich über die Qualität, da die Aromen besonders konzentriert sind.</div><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Now it was time to taste some single vineyard wines:</div><br /><div>We started with Betsek 6 puttonyos aszú 2005, a very rainy vintage yet again, but with good quality aszú wines due to effective spraying (whilst the grapes meant for late harvest and dry wines did not make it into the hod). The wine is developing, with tropical, honey and honeydew melon aromas, a great nutty amd savoury complexity, spicy notes and fantastic balance between luscious texture and high acidity. </div><br /><br /><div>Next came up two wines from a perfect 2003 vintage: Szt. Tamás 6 puttonyos aszú (youthful, honeyed, overripe apple, tropical fruits, sweet spice, mineral touch, loooooooong length) and Mézes Mály (youthful, fruit-driven, tropical and ripe stone fruit, dried wild flowers, earthy-mineral notes and a lo-oo-ong finish as well). 2003 was perfect, as it was warm enough for full ripeness and early botrytis, and a slightly lower level of acidity, which renders the wines ready to drink earlier (than for example the other recent vintage of perfection, 1999), which suits the market well. </div><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div>This brings us to the question, when Tokaji aszú wines should be enjoyed in general: Personally, I already enjoy them a lot when they are still in the barrels, and I bet that many of you would agree with me. But yes, I know that they have a tremendous ageing potential of many decades, if not more than a century (as far as I know, there are no long term studies exceeding this period, but of course I'd be more than happy to volunteer!). It is just that I do not have an adequate cellar to store them appropriately, and to buy those wines aged and developed is not in my free-lance start-up budget, I am afraid. (Not that even the young single vineyard ones are actually...) István is very diplomatic: He is happy for us drinking them anytime we want to, as long as we enjoy them.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div></div><div><br /><div>Jetzt ging es an die Verkostung einiger Weine aus Einzellagen:</div><br /><div>Wir starteten mit 2005 Betsek 6 puttonyos aszú, wiederum ein sehr verregneter Jahrgang, aber Dank effektivem Spritzen mit edelfaulen Weinen guter Qualität (während es die für die trockenen und spätgelesen bestimmten Weine nicht in die Hotte schafften). Der Wein entwickelt sich, mit Aromen tropischer Früchte, Honig, Honigmelone, großartiger nussiger und herzhafter Komplexität, würzigen Noten und einer fantastischen Harmonie zwischen der üppigen Textur und einer hohen Säure.</div><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div>Als nächstes kamen zwei Weine vom perfekten 2003er Jahrgang an die Reihe: Szt. Tamás 6 puttonyos aszú (jung, Honig, überreifer Apfel, tropische Früchte, süße Gewürze, mineralische Note, laaaaaaaang im Abgang) und Mézes Mály (jung, fruchtbetont, tropische Früchte und reifes Steinobst, getrocknete Wildblumen, erdig-mineralische Noten und ein ebenso laa-aaa-anger Abgang). 2003 war perfekt, weil es warm genug war, um eine volle Reife und frühe Edelfäule zu erreichen, bei einem etwas niedrigerem Säuregehalt, wodurch die Weine früher trinkreif werden (als vergleichsweise im auch perfekten 1999er Jahrgang), was dem Marktbegehren entgegenkommt. Was uns zu einer anderen Frage führt, nämlich wann man sich an Tokaji aszú Weine i.d.R. erfreuen sollte. Ich persönlich erfreue mich an ihnen ja sogar bereits, wenn sie noch im Fass lagern, und ich wette, viele von Ihnen würden mir da zustimmen. Aber ja doch, ich weiß, dass die Weine ein enormes Alterungspotenzial haben, mehrere Jahrzehnte, einige sogar mehr als ein Jahrhundert (Langzeitstudien, die darüber hinaus gehen, sind mir nicht bekannt, ich würde mich aber selbstverständlich als freiwillige Versuchsteilnehmerin melden). Nun verfüge ich aber noch nicht mal über einen adäquaten Weinkeller, um die Flaschen heil über den nächsten Winter zu bringen, und die Weine ausgereift zu kaufen, liegt in meinem freiberuflichen Startup-Budget einfach nicht drin. (Nicht, dass es die jungen Einzellagenweine wären...). István ist diplomatisch: Er freue sich, egal wann wir sie trinken wolletn, solange wir Spaß an ihnen hätten.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxzk0vL1iznamLcQ7VhWE9KA_B-3GUWXw7qRhfqy5egJVr3FSrr2eFtSbru4ZuXYP_XL0yWlhlwkJH0IwPD5NJD2rDZtB2d6yCXYwVFxrKm5una-rpdMCbqPI3_LkUYCeZp1Jfxc-LVYK/s1600/223.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5522441011119143794" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxzk0vL1iznamLcQ7VhWE9KA_B-3GUWXw7qRhfqy5egJVr3FSrr2eFtSbru4ZuXYP_XL0yWlhlwkJH0IwPD5NJD2rDZtB2d6yCXYwVFxrKm5una-rpdMCbqPI3_LkUYCeZp1Jfxc-LVYK/s320/223.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />And then it was time for my personal highlight: Nyúlászó 6 puttonyos aszú 1999 (remember, the other perfect vintage recently). Medium amber colour (as opposed to all the deep gold wines I have described before), for two reasons: firstly, the wine was the last vintage produced in the very traditional style without adding much SO2, but ascorbic acid instead to the must macerating in open containers, which easily results in hyper-oxidation. And secondly, because botrytis breaks down the cell walls of the grapes, releasing relatively high amounts of polyphenols for a white wine, which have a low molecular weight while young, but upon ageing and oxygen interacting with the enzymes the molecular weight increases and the colour darkens (but becomes less intense, as the polyphenols fall out of solution and sediment on the bottom of the bottle).</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Thus Tokaji aszú wines will continue to develop an amber colour with age, but it is likely to take much, much longer as from the 2000 vintage, as higher SO2 doses protect the wine and slow down the process of oxidation. In order that they become even more ageable (I really do need a proper wine cellar). Back to the wine: medium amber colour, pronounced nose still developing, luscious with high acidity to counter-balance, dried fruit (prune, fig), with fresh honeydew melon still hanging around, nutty, chocolate, toffee, lasting forever on the palate, outstanding.</div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><br /><br /><div>Und dann war es Zeit für meinen persönlichen Höhepunkt: 1999er Nyúlászó 6 puttonyos aszú (zur Erinnerung: der andere perfekte Jahrgang der letzten Jahre). Bernsteinfarben von mittlerer Intensität (im Gegensatz zu allen vorigen Weinen, welche eine tiefgoldene Farbe aufwiesen), aus zwei Gründen: Erstens handelt es sich um den letzten Jahrgang, der nach der traditionellen Methode ohne Zugabe von viel SO2 vinifiziert wurde, sondern für den stattdessen Ascorbinsäure verwendet wurde, die dem in offenen Behältern mazerierenden Most zugesetzt wurde, was leicht zu einer Hyper-Oxidation führen kann. Und zweitens bricht Botrytis die Zellwände der Trauben auf und setzt damit für einen Weißwein relativ hohe Mengen an Polyphenolen frei, welche ein recht geringes molekulares Gewicht haben, solange sie jung sind, das aber im Zuge des Alterungsprozesses kontinuierlich zunimmt, sodass die Farbe dunkler wird (allerdings weniger intesiv, da die Polyphenole aus der Lösung fallen, d.h. sich am Flaschenboden absetzen). Kurzum, Tokaji Aszú Weine werden auch in Zukunft eine bernsteinfarbene Farbe bekommen, wenn sie altern, aber dieser Prozess wird voraussichtlich ab dem 2000er Jahrgang viel, viel länger dauern, da die höhere SO2-Dosis den Wein schützt und die Oxidation verlangsamt. So dass die Weine noch alterungsfähiger und -würdiger werden (ich brauche wirklich eine guten Weinkeller). Zurück zum Wein: mittlere bernsteinfarbe, intensive Nase immer noch in der Entwicklung, üppig mit hoher Säure, Trockenobst (Pflaume, Feige), mit frischer Honigmelone, die immer noch die Stellung hält, nussig, schokoladig, Karamell, bleibt ewiglich am Gaumen, herausragend.</div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><div><br />The last wine tasted at Royal Tokaji Wine Company was Eszencia 2008 (barrel sample), which is still fermenting slowly. Remember, this is made from the free-run juice of aszú berries and sugar contents are highly concentrated (more than 800 g/litre are not rare). The yeast string mentioned above ferments everything, but in this sticky nectar it just takes much longer. Actually, fermentation mainly takes place only at the surface of the glass jars, which are frequently used (and also stored in the underground labyrinth), as the sugar concentration is slightly lower at the top. (Note: sometimes stainless steel tanks are used, but never oak barrels, as the liquid would destroy the wood and eventually leak out!!!!) After years of slow fermentation, ABV reaches approx. 2% vol. and that's about as far as any yeast string can go. Royal Tokaji's Eszencia 2008 is of deep colour, luscious, pronounced, with grape and apple flavours, but essentially being a pure honey and botrytis bomb. It is oustanding, needs loads of time to develop and is basically indistructable by time (even an opened bottle survives in the fridge for ages).</div><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>In Wirklichkeit findet die Gärung hauptsächlich an der Oberfläche der Glassgefäße statt, welche häufig benutzt (und auch im unterirdischen Labyrinth gelagert) werden, da die Zuckerkonzentration oben etwas geringer ist. (Merke: Manchmal werden auch Edelstahltanks verwendet, niemals jedoch Eichenfässer, da die Flüssigkeit das Holz zerstören und beizeiten auslaufen würde!!!!) Nach Jahren der langsamen Gärung erreicht der Alkoholgehalt ca. 2% vol., und bis hierhin und nicht weiter, sagt dann jeglicher Hefestrang. Royal Tokajis Eszencia 2008 ist von tiefgoldener Farbe, üppig, intensiv, mit Trauben- und Apfelaromen, vor allem aber eine reine Honig- und Botrytisbombe. Sie ist herausragend, braucht Zeit um sich zu entwickeln und ist quasi unkaputtbar (sogar eine offene Flasche würde im Kühlschrank ewig halten).</div><br /><div></div><br /><br />Pictures of morning fogs (Bogrog river), Betsek, Úragya and Mézes Mály are courtesy of Royal Tokaji Wine Company. More information on the estate and its wines are available under <a href="http://www.royal-tokaji.com/">http://www.royal-tokaji.com/</a>.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Fotos vom Morgennebel am Fluss Bodrog, Betsek, Úragya und Mézes Mály stammen von der Royal Tokaji Wine Company. Mehr Infos über das Weingut sowie die Weine sind unter <a href="http://www.royal-tokaji.com/">http://www.royal-tokaji.com/</a> erhältlich.<br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>And now, there is only one last thing to say: Thank you so much, Hugh, Ben, István, Zsuzsa and all the rest of your team, for inviting me to Tokaji and your fabulous winery, so full of soul and rich in stories!!! I sincerely hope to visit you again one day.<br /><br />Und nun bleibt mir nur noch eins zu sagen: Ich danke euch so sehr, Hugh, Ben, István, Zsuzsa and euerm ganzen Team, für die Einladung nach Tokaji und in eurer fabelhaftes Weingut, so voller Seele und reich an Geschichten!!! Ich hoffe wirklich, euch eines Tages erneut besuchen zu können.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-5609825628356281082010-09-20T15:49:00.000-07:002010-11-30T09:21:41.955-08:00The Royal Tokaji Mad Scholarship<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UqG72EOYNphus-ZQqQKUjX9JTeYfhhWNb92baKo2lNe2t3WJOSqY5MgHE11F6pCWPkOpv01AinJLMzjja_E7T7DEcOAKZldrKK9VnOs8ZGP2mQdUYZE6sWDUUq37UsYOECMgnxfEub1n/s1600/Award+Ceremony+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520920958009756130" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 214px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UqG72EOYNphus-ZQqQKUjX9JTeYfhhWNb92baKo2lNe2t3WJOSqY5MgHE11F6pCWPkOpv01AinJLMzjja_E7T7DEcOAKZldrKK9VnOs8ZGP2mQdUYZE6sWDUUq37UsYOECMgnxfEub1n/s320/Award+Ceremony+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />As introduction to this and the next blog entries, let me tell you how it all started: For reasons I would not know details about (but apparently based on my WSET diploma exam results), I was awarded the first Royal Tokaji Mad Scholarship ever. So at the occasion of WSET's Award and Graduation ceremony held at London's Guildhall last January, I had the honour of meeting Hugh Johnson, founding shareholder of the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, and Ben Howkins, the International Sales Director. The prize was a 2-day trip to Tokaj region, and my experiences during this recent journey are subject of the following reports.<br /><br /><br /><br />Als Einleitung für diesen und die nächsten Blog-Einträge, lassen Sie mich kurz erzählen, wie alles anfing: Aus Gründen, die sich mir nicht so ganz erschließen (aber auf Grundlage guter Ergebnisse bei den WSET-Diplomprüfungen), wurde mir die erste Royal Tokaji Mad Scholarship verliehen. So wurde mir anlässlich der WSET Abschlussfeier und Preisverleihung in Londons Guildhall im vergangenen Januar die Ehre zuteil, Hugh Johnson (Gründungsmitglied und Anteilseigner der Royal Tokaji Wine Company) sowie Ben Howkins, den Internationalen Vertriebsleiter, kennenzulernen. Der Preis bestand in einer zweitägigen Reise in die Region Tokaj, und von dieser werde ich im Folgenden berichten.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVcQjjIdsa2VpL_SBIoUDGRgoeEBwyhDLnmYLxnxtgaEwTD-q57-V8XJhP6Ch2RA4e4IfIInntFjheJK5OkHrV2XfXsw65KUCk6vRy-mYZBdguVT9aEwqoRcGGglGcMlexW3gF-Pt48t1q/s1600/Michael+Broadbent+and+Hugh+Johnson.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520920738272607938" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVcQjjIdsa2VpL_SBIoUDGRgoeEBwyhDLnmYLxnxtgaEwTD-q57-V8XJhP6Ch2RA4e4IfIInntFjheJK5OkHrV2XfXsw65KUCk6vRy-mYZBdguVT9aEwqoRcGGglGcMlexW3gF-Pt48t1q/s320/Michael+Broadbent+and+Hugh+Johnson.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTU9E-ir9MrokkgteNLEHwTr0YQmnfAaVFGxZpAm5d02WuFDdiwXfhXuzQ2eAfHDg6b8cLfUUM2-gtPqGPVKtNl3EtdVd5e-4eMSmvzQii6LciP23SYJa_Wz2nMhxFYnWem9jhWhH1DCL/s1600/Hugh+Johnson+and+Ian+Harris.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520920626335262178" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTU9E-ir9MrokkgteNLEHwTr0YQmnfAaVFGxZpAm5d02WuFDdiwXfhXuzQ2eAfHDg6b8cLfUUM2-gtPqGPVKtNl3EtdVd5e-4eMSmvzQii6LciP23SYJa_Wz2nMhxFYnWem9jhWhH1DCL/s320/Hugh+Johnson+and+Ian+Harris.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Michael Broadbent MW and Hugh Johnson</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>Hugh Johnson and Ian Harris, WSET's CEO</div><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7qXGMUwC50KeC6gDTZ7Vq3fqwqr8nGAx_XvaFJVUYiY5E-94ll1tysSmNrjWWz7cIQ6Z4oTsgnJGVBWxAkJOqeXiY_qVXDBjEs-LOILEV0evpCUeUy-YtKIyqBW4BfDQEvge2lLWTpOm/s1600/Hall.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520920380815797138" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 267px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7qXGMUwC50KeC6gDTZ7Vq3fqwqr8nGAx_XvaFJVUYiY5E-94ll1tysSmNrjWWz7cIQ6Z4oTsgnJGVBWxAkJOqeXiY_qVXDBjEs-LOILEV0evpCUeUy-YtKIyqBW4BfDQEvge2lLWTpOm/s400/Hall.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2rMNar7UGoc7ruFqg6nYBQ-6pPETMyabosVxe39lzf5wGu7aErhg053-yeAWBv7NXQ_rtYJVCd8RAHekt1Nyary1BsLJHmK0jq_Ldv_dQbLp2UuXE6_l7cxtbfRcOLBhobn-jxghtdVo/s1600/Award+Ceremony+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520919203289052754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2rMNar7UGoc7ruFqg6nYBQ-6pPETMyabosVxe39lzf5wGu7aErhg053-yeAWBv7NXQ_rtYJVCd8RAHekt1Nyary1BsLJHmK0jq_Ldv_dQbLp2UuXE6_l7cxtbfRcOLBhobn-jxghtdVo/s400/Award+Ceremony+2.jpg" border="0" /></a>Ben Howkins, Isabel Kottmann and Hugh Johnson<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifxr6JyakTqcjAFayQ2X1VaKzJSLXWAX6qrlB443lSznVUqufSowTujdtgIKw7bDHidef5Rg9n-kQTUzkrj07squ6pQPVOfP-NCSQgCc4TZaRKnTvJ9GJR6R0ol8aGZX7hHE-ILhxjZZDp/s1600/Award+Ceremony+1.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>The Guildhall is one of the most festive and impressive venues in London.<br /></div><br /><div></div></div><div></div><div>So from September 13-15 I was invited to discover Tokaji. The region lies approx. 240km north-east of Budapest and is named after its historic commercial center, the village of Tokaj (at the foothills of the eponymous mountain). Tokaji means "from the region of Tokaj", so I will do my best to avoid using the term "Tokaji region", a tautology I had already accustomed myself to before the trip...<br /><br /><br /><div>Tokaji is situated in the Zemplen mountains, which shelter the vineyards from adverse winds and provide viticulturally perfect slopes facing south-east, south and (to a lesser extent) south-west. The rivers Bodrog (deep, narrow, cold) and Tisza (shallow, wide, warm) along with numerous creeks, ponds and tarns regularly generate morning fogs, offering perfect conditions for botrytis cinerea (a fungus) to develop and nourish on the grapes' skins. Depending on the weather, this can turn into either grey rot (unwanted) or noble rot (highly desired). There's not really any viticultural trick able to influence the development of good, but luckily the Tokaj region is very regularly blessed with sunny afternoons, during which the grapes dry up, water evaporates and aromas and sugars are increasingly concentrated in the berries. This natural mesoclimate has brought about one of the most outstanding dessert wine styles the world has ever known.</div><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><div>So war ich also vom 13.-15. September eingeladen Tokaji zu erkunden. Die Region liegt ca. 240 km nordöstlich von Budapest und ist nach seinem historischen Wirtschaftszentrum, dem Ort Tokaj (am Fuße des gleichnamigen Berges) benannt. Tokaji bedeutet aus dem Ungarischen übersetzt "aus der Region von Tokaj", dementsprechend werde ich mich sehr bemühen, die vor der Reise angewöhnte Tautologie "aus der Region Tokaji" zu vermeiden.</div><br /><br /><div>Tokaji liegt im Zemplen-Gebirge, welches die Weinberge von adversen Winden schützt und weinbaulich perfekte Hanglagen mit süd-östlicher, südlicher und teilweise auch süd-westlicher Ausrichtung bietet. Die Flüsse Bodrog (tief, schmal, kalt) und Tisza (seicht, breit, warm) sorgen gemeinsam mit zahlreichen Bächen, Gebirgsseen sowie Tümpeln für regelmäßige morgendliche Nebelschwaden, und bieten damit optimale Voraussetzungen zur Entstehung von Botrytis cinerea (einem Pilz), welcher sich von den Häuten der Trauben ernährt. Je nach Wetter kann er sich zu grauer Fäule (unerwünscht) oder aber Edelfäule (sehr erwünscht) entwickeln. Dabei gibt es leider keinen weinbaulichen Trick, mit dem man die Entstehung der guten Fäule herbeiführen könnte, aber glücklicherweise ist Tokaji regelmäßig mit sonnigen Nachmittagen gesegnet, während derer die Trauben trocknen, Wasser verdunstet und sich Aromen sowie Zucker zunehmend in den Beeren konzentrieren. Dieses natürliche Mesoklima hat einen der herausragendsten Dessertweinstile hervorgebracht, den die Welt je gesehen hat.</div><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520915855298004914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVenmdeN0I2up6oPZ1za8dchEewJPsik3j3olWZLlTQ7RNzpEeTmkLh3CpvSous63G8g8uUDX4q0IXVy0t02kdGef9Drra9Ta3ziAM9I9cXj6uwx25QCcG1-gSmbDDxNyKbJunN68-aFIb/s400/200.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div>Vineyards in Tokaji with the Tokaj mountain in the background.</div><br /><div>Weinberge in Tokaji mit dem Berg Tokaj im Hintergrund. </div><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div>Although both winner and sponsors may be quite crazy indeed, the name Royal Tokaji <strong>Mad</strong> Scholarship actually originates from the village of Mád, where the winery as well many of the region's best single vineyards are located.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Obwohl sowohl Gewinnerin als auch Sponsoren durchaus als leicht wahnsinnig durchgehen würden, stammt der Name Royal Tokaji <strong>Mad</strong> Scholarship eigentlich vom Dorf Mád, wo nicht nur der Betrieb, sondern auch viele der besten Einzellagen Tokajis beheimatet sind.<br /><br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxh9gMVV4ni5AGJxSZWN5rKmw9ZzKTomWRLZ2saaOf_sNkNgbu5wjRRu6CMUa-PAt4qq4FsHTCRpuxii5T_HJrr3f2IbpOZmsDsAconkreIlam6mgO4cYMp8v43e-jQcoRcPe8nXsZctxT/s1600/307.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520918324165875938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxh9gMVV4ni5AGJxSZWN5rKmw9ZzKTomWRLZ2saaOf_sNkNgbu5wjRRu6CMUa-PAt4qq4FsHTCRpuxii5T_HJrr3f2IbpOZmsDsAconkreIlam6mgO4cYMp8v43e-jQcoRcPe8nXsZctxT/s320/307.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />During the scholarship I was accommodated at Mádi Kúria, a lovely castle hotel in Mád.<br /><br />Während der Reise durfte ich im charmanten Schlosshotel Mádi Kúria in Mád wohnen.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div>Currently, the total vineyard area of Tokaji is approx. 5,400 ha. 900 of these belong to the commune of Mád.</div><br /><div></div><div>Die gesamte Rebfläche in Tokaji beträgt derzeit ca. 5.400 ha. Davon gehören ca. 900 ha zur Gemeinde Mád.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCw_zjM5yQSdBrNRrC5SzJsKz_CDC5ieRYvm6-bfOyBbW2qgNmE18PqiDfzKBKQGmuermevlGV0Z9VP0J8ztDpk0JlMWUx1Jyr2GBPxsK8vCdwcSoeJXKmJCDknxG-nwapJYf7t0XN00Fn/s1600/205.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520917045652204930" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCw_zjM5yQSdBrNRrC5SzJsKz_CDC5ieRYvm6-bfOyBbW2qgNmE18PqiDfzKBKQGmuermevlGV0Z9VP0J8ztDpk0JlMWUx1Jyr2GBPxsK8vCdwcSoeJXKmJCDknxG-nwapJYf7t0XN00Fn/s320/205.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>All these portals in Mád lead to a wide-spread underground tunnel system, which is used by wineries all over Tokaji to store wines (both in barrel and bottle). With a constant temperature all year round and a high humidity these conditions are ideal for long-term wine storage.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZRdOywG9Gnv02ndRujGCGpZOt4N__6A0Fg8qBtpPFFsabFqxSWZNj9EdjaPvMzpCAg42XqhwKNeSwbo2VQE8K84vC3SF6shFrdOz3aDI_F73piot1UwVE3m0pyyaqbPJUt9cVkyG5KwvM/s1600/204.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520916806300413250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZRdOywG9Gnv02ndRujGCGpZOt4N__6A0Fg8qBtpPFFsabFqxSWZNj9EdjaPvMzpCAg42XqhwKNeSwbo2VQE8K84vC3SF6shFrdOz3aDI_F73piot1UwVE3m0pyyaqbPJUt9cVkyG5KwvM/s320/204.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Alle diese Pforten in Mád führen hinab in weit verzweigte unterirdische Gänge, in denen die Weingüter in ganz Tokaji seit jeher ihre Weine lagern (sowohl in Fässern als auch in Flaschen). Mit einer ganzjährig konstanten Temperatur und hohen Luftfeuchtigkeit bieten die Gewölbe ideale Bedingungen zur langfristigen Weinlagerung.</div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div>Tokaji's substratum is of volcanic origin, usually covered with a topsoil of clay and/or loess. There are immense local differences, however, even within a single plot! The nature and chronological history of the volcanic soil as well as the nature and depth of the topsoil (along with the microclimate) generate grape material, which may give a hint or a clear expression of terroir. More of this in the following blog entry, which amongst other details will have a closer look at the Royal Tokaji Wine Company's top vineyards.<br /><br /></div><div>Das Substrat in Tokaji ist vulkanischen Ursprungs und i.d.R. mit einem Oberboden aus Ton und/oder Loess bedeckt. Doch es gibt lokal große Unterschiede, zum Teil sogar innerhalb ein und derselben Parzelle! Die Art und zeitliche Entstehung des Vulkangesteins sowie die Art und Tiefe des Oberbodens liefern (in Kombination mit dem Mikroklima) Trauben, welche teilweise in Nuancen, teilweise in deutlicher Ausprägung die Besonderheiten der Einzellage, aus der sie stammen, ausdrücken können. Doch dazu im folgenden Blog-Eintrag mehr, welcher u.a. die Besonderheiten der verschiedenen Spitzenlagen der Royal Tokaji Wine Company beschreiben wird.</div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div>The most important grape variety used is Furmint. It is a very vigorous variety, but with sufficiently low yields able to produce powerful yet elegant wines of distinction. Typical aromas of youthful wines are fresh, ripe apples, developing into rather nutty and honeyed notes upon ageing. The variety is very prone to botrytis, so ideal for sweet wine production. But estates are also increasingly interested in producing high quality dry Furmint with a high ageing potential, in order to meet international market demand, and also for personal belief and paying tribute to this versatile, ancient variety.</div><div><br /></div><div>The second blending component is normally Hárslevelü (= linden leaf), which is late ripening, but not as prone to botrytis as Furmint. It contributes floral aromas (linden leaf), spicy notes and a pronounced acidity. Sárga Muscotály (Muscat de Lunel = Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is also found in blends frequently and offers an aromatic, perfumed bouquet. </div><div><br /></div><div>Some estates also blend small quantities of Zeta (a Furmint X Bouvier crossing, early-ripening and very prone to botrytis), Kobar and Kövérszölö (translation: fat grape), or experiment with these.</div><div><br /></div><div>Die wichtigste Rebsorte ist Furmint. Diese ist grundsätzlich sehr wachstumsintensiv, mit ausreichend geringen Erträgen jedoch imstande, kräftige und gleichzeitig elegante Weine mit hoher Unterscheidungskraft hervorzubringen. Typisch für junge Weine sind dabei frische, reife Apfelaromen, mit zunehmender Reife treten dann Nuss- und Honigtöne in den Vordergrund. Furmint ist sehr anfällig für Edelfäule und daher ausgezeichnet zur Süßweinproduktion geeignet. Aber die Weingüter sind auch zunehmend daran interessiert, einen trockenen Furmint mit Alterungspotential in ihr Portfolio einzubauen, teils aufgrund der Marktnachfrage, teils aus persönlicher Überzeugung und als Ehrerbietung an diese vielseitige, antike Rebsorte.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div>Der zweitwichtigste Verschnittpartner ist die Rebsorte Hárslevelü (= Lindenblatt), welche spät reift, aber nicht so anfällig für Botrytis ist wie Furmint. Sie liefert blumige (Lindenblatt) und würzige Noten sowie eine rassige Säure. Sárga Muscotály (Muscat de Lunel = Muscat à Petits Grains) ist ebenfalls in vielen Weinen zu finden, mit seinem aromatischen, perfümierten Bukett.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div>Einige Weingüter verwenden auch geringe Anteile von Zeta (eine Kreuzung zwischen Furmint und Bouvier, frühreifend und sehr anfällig für Botrytis), Kobar und Kövérszölö (übersetzt: fette Traube), oder experimentieren mit diesen. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvs1AqE22bi6-Wg9ZyPwDFyZAlt_YLyI787vbPkyRzfZE2Il8x8rbXDc5_x5JH-2WP8cZWrrSqxlsW-dqN-k9iVX8Kg290sUwoMGhnORL3HKzZZ71qvfHF6zo_DHj2764wU20lrwxM5PvQ/s1600/174.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520916166606324482" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvs1AqE22bi6-Wg9ZyPwDFyZAlt_YLyI787vbPkyRzfZE2Il8x8rbXDc5_x5JH-2WP8cZWrrSqxlsW-dqN-k9iVX8Kg290sUwoMGhnORL3HKzZZ71qvfHF6zo_DHj2764wU20lrwxM5PvQ/s400/174.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div>As in the rest of Hungary, traditionally 5BB Teleki is the most widely used rootstock, named after Zsigmond Teleki, an Hungarian viticulturist and breeder from Villány. For new plantings other rootstocks may offer advantages though - Royal Tokaji, for example, uses low-vigour Berner (particularly important for Furmint). Berner is also quite drought-resistant, an attribute not as important in cool, rainy vintages such as 2010...</div><div></div><div></div><div>Wie im übrigen Ungarn ist 5BB Teleki der traditionell am häufigsten verwendete Wurzelstock , benannt nach Zsigmond Teleki, einem ungarischen Winzer und Rebstock-Züchter aus Villány. Bei Neupflanzungen ist man aber durchaus offen für Neues - die Royal Tokaji Company etwa verwendet Berner, welcher geringen Wuchs verspricht (besonders wichtig für Furmint). Berner ist auch relativ dürre-resistent, was allerdings in kühlen, verregneten Jahrgängen wie diesem keine große Rolle spielt...</div><div><br /><br />The harvest is done by hand, with normally passing 3-5 times through every plot for optimal selection.<br /></div><div>Healthy, ripe grapes will be usually vinified into dry varietal wines, like the above mentioned Dry Furmint becoming increasingly popular. Fermentation in stainless-steel tanks and prevention of malo-lactic fermentation is common, in order to preserve a maximum of varietal primary aromas.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Overripe grapes with a light or partial botrytis affection are increasingly used for Late Harvest wines, a relatively recent style with as many shapes and production methods as there are wineries. Details can be found under the following blog entries of the respective wineries. </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Then there is the need for base wines, which are fermented dry and into which the nobly rotted grapes will be blended, in order to produce the aszú wines (see below). Again, there's a bit of the winery's indivisual philosophy involved, but grape material for base wines tends to be picked in the very end of harvest, the last batches in other words, and tends to consist of overripe grapes, which had not been affected by botrytis.<br />The translation of aszú is noble rot, so anytime you find the word aszú mentioned on the label, you will find the distintive botrytis character in the wine. And you will come across the so-called puttonyos system: Traditionally, the degree of sweetness of the wine was measured by how many puttonyok (= hods, each containing 27 kg of shrivelled aszú grapes) were added to a gönc, a 136 l-barrel of dry base wine. With progressing technology, the number of added puttonyok were transcribed into the following minimum residual sugar levels:</div><div><br /></div><div>3 puttonyos - 3-hodded Aszú - min. 60 g/l RS</div><div>4 puttonyos - 4-hodded Aszú - min. 90 g/l RS</div><div>5 puttonyos - 5-hodded Aszú - min. 120 g/l RS</div><div>6 puttonyos - 6-hodded Aszú - min. 150 g/l RS </div><div><br /></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Wines with a natural residual sugar of 180 g/l or above were called Aszú Eszencia. But: There is a new legislation! For reasons of simplification, no labelling of Aszú Eszencia will be allowed as from the 2010 vintage. This was decided, in order to avoid any further confusion with (Nature) Esszencia (see below). However, as these wines tend to keep for decades, if not centuries, you may easily come across a bottle of Aszú Eszencia for a very, very long time... </div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>As grapes intended for base wine production are usually harvested after the aszú berries, the nobly rotted grapes are usually stored in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures until the base wine is ready for blending. After blending, the aszú wines are usually fermented in Hungarian oak barrels of varying sizes and then matured for several years in oak (2 years are required by law, but often exceeded) and at least one further year in bottle. </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>(Nature) Eszencia is a different type of animal: It is gained from the free-run juice of pure aszú berries, collected whilst the berries are waiting to be blended with the base wine. Although quantities are tiny, as you can imagine, and Eszencia is highly appreciated by collectors world wide for reasons of rarity and reputed healing powers, only a small part of this nectar is sold bottled (after years of slow fermentation to 4-5% alc.). Eszencia is mostly used for blending in the Aszú wines before fermentation or topping up of barrels during maturation, in order to increase their concentration.<br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADxlNVy2dR0jMFRdQ7twNXbth0DMvHBBatJJVA2nRA6bzgL8ITtmv1YIj1pYyPCDh1JzAv_u5qhIWukpPgZz6h7UfUKXxFoz2Mi2-JEuvBrjkpnO70rmsNpVdC8WVk_HFoshcsM32_kLX/s1600/229.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520917831489901138" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADxlNVy2dR0jMFRdQ7twNXbth0DMvHBBatJJVA2nRA6bzgL8ITtmv1YIj1pYyPCDh1JzAv_u5qhIWukpPgZz6h7UfUKXxFoz2Mi2-JEuvBrjkpnO70rmsNpVdC8WVk_HFoshcsM32_kLX/s400/229.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div><br /><br /></div><div>Here you can see a traditional gönc (136 litre barrel) and a puttonyo (hod with a 27 kg capacity of aszú grapes).<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Rechts im Bild ist ein traditionelles gönc (136 Liter Fass) und ein puttonyo (Hotte mit einer Kapazität von 27 kg an edelfaulen Trauben).<br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520917533294811458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNpwR8kgFyRHtOeT54jfK5CGJNV_FJhCj5eabhdCg2ExdagLCrO2UD0_ieTA_KZdcVdK6Z5UnGKNIuJipNXkoX0M7_8rwM_qLbSJ1m4v8CQFr0lc1yLnYCf8sZAMVfjxEQO25eoC0KyGHq/s400/224.JPG" border="0" /><br />Eszencia - made from free-run juice of aszú grapes <div>Eszencia - aus aufgefangenen Rebensaft von Aszú Trauben gewonnen<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Es wird per Hand gelesen, normalerweise in 3-5 Lesegängen je Parzelle, um den optimalen Erntezeitpunkt zu gewährleisten. </div><div></div><div><div>Gesunde, reife Trauben werden für gewöhnlich zu trockenen Rebsortenweinen vinifiziert, wie z.B. der oben genannte Furmint trocken (Dry Furmint), der immer populärer wird. Die Gärung in Edelstahltanks und Vermeidung der Milchsäuregärung sind üblich, um ein Maximum an Primäraromen der Rebsorte zu bewahren.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Überreife Trauben mit einem geringen oder teilweisen Botrytisbefall werden zunehmend für Late Harvest (Spätlese) Weine verwendet, eine relativ junge Entwicklung mit so vielen Ausprägungen und Herstellungsmethoden wie es Weingüter gibt. Nähere Informationen hierzu können in den folgenden Blogeinträgen über die jeweiligen Weingütern gefunden werden.<br /></div></div><div></div><div></div><div><div>Ferner gibt es den Bedarf für trocken vergorene Grundweine, in welche die edelfaulen Beeren verschnitten werden, um aszú Weine herzustellen (siehe unten). Wiederum hängen die Einzelheiten hier ein bisschen von der jeweiligen Philisophie des Weingutes ab, aber tendenziell wird das entsprechende Traubenmaterial rest ganz zum Schluss der Lese geerntet und besteht somit aus überreifen Trauben, welche nicht von Botrytis befallen wurden.</div><div></div><div></div></div><div>Die Übersetzung von aszú ist edelfaul, d.h. auf allen Etiketten, welche das Wort aszú beinhalten, wird der spezielle Botrytischarakter im Wein zu finden sein. And Sie werden auf das sogenanngte puttonyos-System stoßen: Traditionell wurde der Restzuckergehalt im Wein daran gemessen, wieviele puttonyok (= Bütten mit einem Inhalt von jeweils 27 kg getrockneten, edelfaulen Trauben) einem gönc (einem 136 l-Fass mit trockenem Grundwein) hinzugefügt wurden. Mit fortschreitender Technologie wurde die Anzahl der puttonyok in folgende minimale Restzuckerwerte übertragen:</div><div></div><div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>3 puttonyos - 3-"gebütteter" Aszú / 3 Bütten Aszú - min. 60 g/l RZ</div><div>4 puttonyos - 4-"gebütteter" Aszú / 4 Bütten Aszú - min. 90 g/l RZ</div><div>5 puttonyos - 5-"gebütteter" Aszú / 5 Bütten Aszú - min. 120 g/l RZ</div><div>6 puttonyos - 6-"gebütteter" Aszú / 6 Bütten Aszú - min. 150 g/l RZ</div></div><div></div><div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Weine mit einem natürlichen Restzuckergehalt von 180 g/l oder mehr wurden Aszú Eszencia genannte. Aber: Es gibt hierzu eine neue Gesetzgebung! Zur Vereinfachung darf ab dem 2010er Jahrgang kein Wein mehr als Aszú Eszencia deklariert werden. Zweck ist, jegliche weitere Verwechslung mit (Nature) Eszencia (siehe unten) zu vermeiden. Allerdings überstehen diese Weine unbeschadet Jahrzehnte (wenn nicht sogar Jahrhunderte), so dass Sie noch sehr, sehr lange auf eine Flasche Aszú Eszencia stoßen könnten... </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Da die Trauben für die Grundweine i.d.R. erst nach den edelfaulen Beeren gelesen werden, werden diese in der Zwischenzeit bei niedrigen Temperaturen in Edelstahltanks aufbewahrt. Nach dem Verschnitt werden Aszú Weine für gewöhnlich in Fässern aus Ungarischer Eiche unterschiedlicher Größe vergoren, und anschließend für mehrere Jahre darin (mind. 2 Jahre sind gesetzlich vorgeschrieben, viele Winzer gehen aber oftmals darüber hinaus) sowie ein weiteres Jahr auf der Flasche gereift.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div></div><div><div></div><div>(Nature) Eszencia in von ganz anderer Beschaffenheit: Sie wird aus dem frei ablaufenden Saft der edelfaulen Trauben gewonnen, gesammelt in der Zeit, in der die Trauben darauf warten, in den Grundwein verschnitten zu werden. Obwohl die Mengen winzig sind, wie Sie sich vorstellen können, und Eszencia von Sammlern weltweit hochgeschätzt wird wegen seiner Seltenheit und angeblich heilenden Kräfte, wird nur ein geringer Teil dieses Nektars in Flaschen gefüllt und verkauft (nach Jahren einer langsamen Vergärung auf 4-5% Alk.). Eszencia wird zum größten Teil unter die Aszú-Weine verschnitten, entweder vor dem Gärungsprozess oder zum Auffüllen der Fässer während der Reifeperiode, um deren Konzentration zu erhöhen. </div><div></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>The first important markets for Tokaji aszú wines were at home in north-east Hungary as well as in Poland. Their importance for the national economy grew rapidly, and in order to protect their origin and establish an official hierarchy of perceived quality differences among the sites, Prince Rákóczi II initiated and established the world's first vineyard classification in 1700. This was supported by the noble and consulted by the best vineyard managers of their time, who would comment on quality, frequency and volumes of aszú berries obtained in the different vineyard sites. By the end of the 18th century, Tokaji wines were highly acclaimed all over Europe, being regularly served at the French and Russian courts, the preferred present of state by the Austro-Hungarian Empire and referred to as "the wine of kings and king of wines".<br /></div></div><div><div><br /><div>During the Soviet regime, vintners were expropriated and high-volume production dominated in the state-owned cooperatives. There was hardly any export to Western countries, and if there was, mainly low quality wines were sold, ruining the once so glorious image of Tokaji wines. This period still shows its aftermath in markets like Germany, where consumer confidence can only be won back slowly. Under the communists, wine-making technology became increasingly outdated and ailing, top vineyards on steep slopes were more and more abandoned and replaced by lesser sites on easier attendable plains, with a low density and rows planted wide enough from each other to make the vineyards accessible for heavy Soviet tractors.<br /></div><div>This is how Hugh Johnson and some other investors found the region in 1989, when they decided to revive Tokaji and help the wines to regain their former glory. Their stories will be told subsequently.</div><br /><br /><div>Die ersten wichtigen Absatzmärkte für Tokaji Weine waren die großräumige Umgebung in Ungarns Nordosten sowie Polen. Ihre Bedeutung für die heimische Wirtschaft wuchs schnell, und zum Schutz der Herkunftsbezeichnung sowie zur Bildung einer offiziellen Hierarchie unter den Lagen, initiierte und begründete um 1700 Prinz Rákóczi II. die erste Weinbergs-Klassifikation der Welt. Diese wurde vom Adel mitgetragen, unter Beratschlagung der damals besten Weinbergsaufsehern, welche jede Lage aufgrund von Qualität, Häufigkeit und Menge der gelieferten Aszú-Beeren beurteilten. Spätestens seit Ende des 18. Jh. waren Tokaji Weine in ganz Europa berühmt und wurden regelmäßigen am Französischen und Russichen Hofe serviert, häufig als Staatsgeschenk vom Österreichisch-Ungarischen Kaiserreich eingesetzt und weithin bekannt als "Wein der Könige und König der Weine".<br /><br /></div><div>Während des Regimes der Sowietunion wurden die Winzer enteignet und Massenproduktion bestimmte die Arbeit der staatseigenen Kooperativen. Exportiert wurde in den Westen nur wenig, und wenn, dann in der Regel Weine von geringer Qualität, die den einst so ruhmreichen Ruf der Tokaji Weine ruinierten. In Märkten wie Deutschland zeigt diese Epoche immer noch Nachwirkungen, denn das Vertrauen der Endverbraucher kann nur ganz langsam zurückgewonnen werden. Unter der kommunistischen Herrschaft wurden die Kellertechnologien immer veralteter und maroder, Top-Lagen an Steillagen wurden verlassen und stattdessen Neupflanzungen in geringwertigeren Tallagen angelegt, da diese einfacher zu bearbeiten waren. Eine geringe Dichte und große Abstände zwischen den Reihen, um die Weinberge den schweren russischen Traktoren zugänglich zu machen, taten ihr übriges.</div><br /><div>So fanden Hugh Johnson und einige andere Investoren die Region 1989 vor, als sie beschlossen, Tokaji wiederzubeleben und zu alten Ehren zurückzuverhelfen. Um ihre Geschichten wird es in den folgenden Einträgen gehen.</div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-67158705066164590392010-09-20T15:48:00.001-07:002010-09-24T15:12:17.423-07:00Budapest Wine FestivalMy recent trip to Hungary luckily coincided with the annual Budapest Wine Festival. This takes place in the pictoresque setting of Buda Castle, which along with the wines and the program made more than up for this year's rather lousy weather.<br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjunXpWH1ktd0WZf1jK4lCGwWnaPwhcuei-L91mdAZv4FYO4uCRYwgf18WfyVK4cd1rr9i4tMC6uXDKQDL0CABMBRDx3MIBtXXaIwb5Azjd8PzAC05RCh-RKHvy391SBjAH-4dgISZfmIhl/s1600/073.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520569565218048674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjunXpWH1ktd0WZf1jK4lCGwWnaPwhcuei-L91mdAZv4FYO4uCRYwgf18WfyVK4cd1rr9i4tMC6uXDKQDL0CABMBRDx3MIBtXXaIwb5Azjd8PzAC05RCh-RKHvy391SBjAH-4dgISZfmIhl/s320/073.JPG" border="0" /></a><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520570026355341010" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCBNqhW0fo55_1YdycAFdXZW8GNpJ9XIPxDfXT9HI_aTtdz2agkQ3cQB8gr3qry0Ro7hHxwipOSoOMEMIXOwQgZXpwQJgH_Vaz9wy8TaMLEdz2wrLjyv62UJCl36PwoN33vTzeLtsx4Vsi/s320/079.JPG" border="0" />Buda's castle district and its view of river Danube and Pest side.</p><p></p><br /><p>Whilst the festival featured wines from 250 producers and 15 countries, I obviously concentrated on discovering as many Hungarian wines from as many producers and regions as possible. In other words, I allowed the festival to fulfill its declared mission: "to develop Hungarian wine culture" (Zoltán Zilai, MD of Hungarian Viti- and Viniculture Ltd.).</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6FocatkmZPW-chb5YKyMPMKdCQq7TRttVchOaY5WR3RQwVAVL5cBeYmmEz0YmYSgbwt7G4BObCy_DpI5-75kOEEEqWx65TPzQgnZ3zd1ry5yJkJI-qLt3DStaNHD61pW-EDdf0gtsPlnD/s1600/121.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520570520264624130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6FocatkmZPW-chb5YKyMPMKdCQq7TRttVchOaY5WR3RQwVAVL5cBeYmmEz0YmYSgbwt7G4BObCy_DpI5-75kOEEEqWx65TPzQgnZ3zd1ry5yJkJI-qLt3DStaNHD61pW-EDdf0gtsPlnD/s400/121.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Most of my best tastings took place at the stands of Tokaji producers (Royal Tokaji Company, Oremus, Patricius), but these I will feature in individual blog entries when reporting about my subsequent trip to Tokaji (by invitation of Royal Tokaji Company, sponsoring my scholarship won during WSET diploma studies).</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhct4tMmjfBqtptB1XALat_KnMsLjo69khonEnDe-rLG-At_aXyBjQZVo3NcQCkOjce6j78hcLHGgmkp7vKmnMfCvmQTtGeHjVMQRGu3H7KADOSGiPy1K3ERSxuVwN2sONNVTV1jejVfqsi/s1600/088.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520569145973343474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhct4tMmjfBqtptB1XALat_KnMsLjo69khonEnDe-rLG-At_aXyBjQZVo3NcQCkOjce6j78hcLHGgmkp7vKmnMfCvmQTtGeHjVMQRGu3H7KADOSGiPy1K3ERSxuVwN2sONNVTV1jejVfqsi/s200/088.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p><br />And it goes without saying that not all wines I tasted were pleasurable. So here are my favourites aside from Tokaji:</p><p>2008 Egerszólati Olaszrizling (a white grape variety) from Kántor Tag (a single vineyard in Eger), producer: Gál Lajos. An aromatic, youthful wine ready to drink, with aromas of acacia and honeysuckle, ripe mango and lychee and a hint of vanilla. Good balance between acidity and sweetness (off-dry style) and length.</p><p>2007 Kopár Villány Cuvée, made from 50% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon all grown in the Kopár single vineyard of Villány region, producer: Gere Attila. All of the blend was aged for 16 months in oak, partly in small barrels of 60l, partly in large casks. The wine is youthful, ready to drink, yet able to age well. It shows fresh raspberry fruit, sweet spicy vanilla and notes of white chocolate and is well balanced by a medium+ level of soft, ripe tannins.</p><p>From the same Villány vineyard, but Sauska estate, comes 2006 Kopár Merlot, a fully developed wine, with ripe, sweet red berry flavours, sweet spice characteric and a medium level of silky tannins. It is showing slight notes of oxidation, but in this case not disturbing at all, but rather adding some extra complexity. Should be drunk soon.</p><p>2006 Kékfrankos (black grape variety, in Austria and Germany known as Blaufränkisch) from Spern Steiner (single vineyard) in Sópron, producer: Weninger estate. It was made from old vines of approx. 50 years, grown on mica schist and gneiss soils. The wine shows youthful, with red fruit and sweet spice (vanilla), as well as earthy and mineral notes. It is quite high in acidity, which gives this wine a very elegant structure and makes it a perfect match for heavy and oily dishes. </p><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl3b68yR_HW_rSmen5_XB08U37WFviCY01sriS2mrHMKa1Qjkk9__XY4ucbOejuh0jzWjeVTWKEINDrUMrpCcyheoge8H6mu9S6mB7TWmRGs2p6Rl-jJ7E9tbAbM9eRvjtV0-7cxTuVh1/s1600/087.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520568682518174258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl3b68yR_HW_rSmen5_XB08U37WFviCY01sriS2mrHMKa1Qjkk9__XY4ucbOejuh0jzWjeVTWKEINDrUMrpCcyheoge8H6mu9S6mB7TWmRGs2p6Rl-jJ7E9tbAbM9eRvjtV0-7cxTuVh1/s320/087.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Some of the best tastings were organized by my friend Ágnes Herczeg (Wine Treasury Kft), whom I had met during WSET diploma studies in London.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520570831181562546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2TcGrZEob0dFuYnnYNoos4QihogRIXwa71X_eDJsQa67_G2Ql7dRlDtXWVCHAG88PQ-rKboOXDRLPtV8zDB-RnDMqNdXzWIA_-myofCa-tGeHH_sRn8CCuiGlCXiMeF4cdBXZnEObZrO/s400/133.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Culinary delights (Kürtöskalács, a sweet dough baked in a special oven and then flavoured à gusto with chocolate, coconut, almonds etc.)...<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsX019fT_vR1OcumZTjk2NCdCJcmA12yq2DbOIyRS_qzuxsY8rprciS9ggZjEfoLyCR26iOaVeDoaDSnNery1dmumtmMqtk1TsK4yJ-l3njFtSBBW-H2jySXhPquYGoSwTZrqCK7utuBJ9/s1600/118.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520569858657975266" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsX019fT_vR1OcumZTjk2NCdCJcmA12yq2DbOIyRS_qzuxsY8rprciS9ggZjEfoLyCR26iOaVeDoaDSnNery1dmumtmMqtk1TsK4yJ-l3njFtSBBW-H2jySXhPquYGoSwTZrqCK7utuBJ9/s320/118.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div><br /><br />... and adventures (cockscomb and bowels served</div><div>on a potato-pearl barley mix and decorated with </div><div>edible flowers - actually really tasty!)<br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520570239346298786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGlmMOqibWkBcvvaSl3WRfaw94Q8Z8ljyUcLOfJdHIamw5yKHgHIn1sazbMvNG-X5rkYC5qktmTcTIdog8LOntMllCa_4ulMcnuJxRD1kMx3veOt14e4yVVvLNGP_DNfLfKfoCZkYXcsF8/s320/089.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br />Numerous concerts, dance performances and exhibitions completed the varied program.<br /><div><div><div><div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEzZZcQ4wnjUp8dj8Y_PqLgpHo5fTGpny1FO1voSrvzeqNwu5KjITSOD65dJL-VvuKpH1DdPpw0o-57K7f5d94a5Y3wBepi5BCnj1rJR_PBqpXfeKY4-BwApWmas1cKyNzhUTX-RN1an1k/s1600/086.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520568404990781826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEzZZcQ4wnjUp8dj8Y_PqLgpHo5fTGpny1FO1voSrvzeqNwu5KjITSOD65dJL-VvuKpH1DdPpw0o-57K7f5d94a5Y3wBepi5BCnj1rJR_PBqpXfeKY4-BwApWmas1cKyNzhUTX-RN1an1k/s200/086.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><div>All in all, it was a fabulous experience, alas no bargain one, as the entry ticket at 2,300 Forint (approx. 9,00 EUR) was just that: an entry ticket for 1 day + a tasting glass, and every single sip of wine had to be paid for extra.</div><div></div><div>More information are available under <a href="http://www.aborfesztival.hu/">http://www.aborfesztival.hu/</a></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-60670035711683454672010-09-10T06:26:00.000-07:002010-09-10T07:47:30.031-07:00IWSC - Australia tastingFor this year's International Wine & Spirits Competition I was invited as associate judge for the panel on Australian wines. Associate judge means that the other (proper) judges assess me on how I am assessing the wines, and the better I do, the higher is the chance that I am invited back next year (hopefully as proper judge then :-). <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJ4f7A0Rq6A13x_uoTh0JHyjRW-dWdRpwVy_cIr4-06vNPyrIgvknO9WtTbqAmQEC88hLs4mI1qE0XPjeCASZAkUzY9QgDDAxUm-yX24H8_ZTNjIUZMLMhG6Mn_KG-XFAvwpGyY6nYAlI/s1600/pic+4.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515279099266429314" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 213px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJ4f7A0Rq6A13x_uoTh0JHyjRW-dWdRpwVy_cIr4-06vNPyrIgvknO9WtTbqAmQEC88hLs4mI1qE0XPjeCASZAkUzY9QgDDAxUm-yX24H8_ZTNjIUZMLMhG6Mn_KG-XFAvwpGyY6nYAlI/s320/pic+4.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515278935149150562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 213px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujVIaBzl21mJz2UOiu1zRkcSaNZdDB-kJLss4Qvo8ef-ZcHHFljLdtbT0_ko4NM0DfGC7cjq5oEUHrV0xZA28_5uiRrRy5nUeyfcFHeo-zpMNhRzIOsBzik0Z0BCynadT5wHHBfAnxoVp/s320/pic+2.bmp" border="0" /><br /><br />The two sessions were intense, with 63 wines tasted on day 1 and 66 wines on day 2, and wines being as versatile as Nebbiolo from Heathcote, Viognier-Marsanne blends from South Australia and botrytised Semillon from Riverina & districts, next to the classics Shiraz, Cabernet, Grenache, Riesling and Chardonnay (+blends). The panels were chaired by Peter Nixson (day 1) and Philip Goodband MW (day 2), making sure that palates of the team members were thoroughly calibrated and results were consistent with the rest of the tastings (taking place 6 months per year, starting with France in April, continuing with the rest of European wines until early summer, then catching up with spirits, fortified and sparkling wines, before moving on to the new world in late summer).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQnkkPR2D8xYQtgdJYQlhSbPwDfxQSaOW7Wne9sE9mwYEX-IEENmGOTdtQgs5Yi5uQZ_YQ8G8D_5ndQdTOrmU_IEEDysqDgSXttXF8b5J54Q4HTlhAX3OnPMwc0pMT7Omoi6oIY7VyVcC_/s1600/pic+3.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515279022023707474" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 120px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQnkkPR2D8xYQtgdJYQlhSbPwDfxQSaOW7Wne9sE9mwYEX-IEENmGOTdtQgs5Yi5uQZ_YQ8G8D_5ndQdTOrmU_IEEDysqDgSXttXF8b5J54Q4HTlhAX3OnPMwc0pMT7Omoi6oIY7VyVcC_/s320/pic+3.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Whilst the IWSC boasts the most highly qualified and trained international tasting panels, with each judge being experienced and specialized in the wines they assess, it is also open to new people (the wine trade's next generation, usually WSET diploma students or recently graduated like myself), and knowledgeable consumers getting their say as well. I so much enjoyed the last two days, the great, open-minded atmosphere, the generous advice and training provided by the other judges, the efficient organization (thanks so much to the IWSC team!) and last but not least: many very good and outstanding wines! All in all, a unique experience and opportunity!!!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsnBEcKxAhv52IcPEwhxby_zsc3BO-0a_mnqJfq57uyfhS76zLlLq7BLT62Gu6Cpfh_zhtNWXVrZ_WxxNArEmngRRo2Nyl4dJgRTZIyc3sI8PQLIf6r92skF-tmkhgw37rkCgCDh30-Ax/s1600/pic+1.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515278490068177954" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 213px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrsnBEcKxAhv52IcPEwhxby_zsc3BO-0a_mnqJfq57uyfhS76zLlLq7BLT62Gu6Cpfh_zhtNWXVrZ_WxxNArEmngRRo2Nyl4dJgRTZIyc3sI8PQLIf6r92skF-tmkhgw37rkCgCDh30-Ax/s320/pic+1.bmp" border="0" /></a><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515279191848932802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 213px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqrLeJQRlcFeWE_DaVJyfJKcbMHIeWhf1D1RMSdJUzUbNbsHiSVt_K806M6bvYTu3cCyOyUlyZEumClcnl7S8d2BY7SsztpzAbzYcntcdHVTrHDk44DsWrGaEf1mIk7EpflRbI-jDuA0K/s320/pic+5.bmp" border="0" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQnkkPR2D8xYQtgdJYQlhSbPwDfxQSaOW7Wne9sE9mwYEX-IEENmGOTdtQgs5Yi5uQZ_YQ8G8D_5ndQdTOrmU_IEEDysqDgSXttXF8b5J54Q4HTlhAX3OnPMwc0pMT7Omoi6oIY7VyVcC_/s1600/pic+3.bmp"></a><br /><br />Trophy winners are honoured at the annual IWSC Banquet, taking place in November at London's Guildhall. For tickets or more information on the competition, please see <a href="http://www.iwsc.net/">http://www.iwsc.net/</a>.<br /><br /><br /><br /></p><p>Als Associate Judge (beisitzendes Jurymitglied) fuer Australische Weine wurde ich zum diesjaehrigen International Wine & Spirit Competition eingeladen. Beisitzendes Jurymitglied bedeutet, dass die anderen (richtigen) Jurymitglieder meine Bewertungen bewerten, und je besser ich abschneide, desto hoeher ist die Chance, im kommenden Jahr (als hoffentlich vollwertiges Mitglied) wieder eingeladen zu werden.</p><p>Die beiden Tage waren intensic, mit 63 Weinen am ersten und 66 Weinen am zweiten Tag, und einer grossen Bandbreite an Stilrichtungen: vom Nebbiolo aus Heathcote, ueber Viognier-Marsanne Verschnitten aus Suedaustralien, Semillon mit Edelfauele aus Riverina & Distrikten, bis hin zu den Klassikern Shiraz, Cabernet, Grenache, Riesling, Chardonnay (+ Verschnitten).</p><p>Die Jury wurde von Peter Nixson (Tag 1) bzw. Philip Goodband (Tag 2) geleitet, welche dafuer Sorge trugen, dass die Bewertungen in sich sowie hinsichtlich der uebrigen Kategorien konsistent waren.<br /><br />Medaillengewinner werden im Rahmen eines alljaehrlich im November stattfindenden Galadiners geehrt (welches in Londons Guildhall stattfindet). Karten und mehr Informationen ueber den Wettbewerb sind unter <a href="http://www.iwsc.net/">http://www.iwsc.net/</a> erhaeltlich.</p>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-64855138643071512152010-09-09T12:53:00.000-07:002010-09-20T15:46:26.166-07:00Wines of Chile Annual Trade Tasting 2010<div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2mxVrg3J0tOiUz8-HUGJXUBAnL6W3FHJ7Gu-mhWtap9BCmASZCuYmAWwUUEpn43fJ4QtRejvxYw46_dZA_tC5cyeZmyhDMDOECslIKjbdwg0Nl8ozfiBMopg691kQcqh1vUaPulDb-9r/s1600/pic+4.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515280837513580082" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 213px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2mxVrg3J0tOiUz8-HUGJXUBAnL6W3FHJ7Gu-mhWtap9BCmASZCuYmAWwUUEpn43fJ4QtRejvxYw46_dZA_tC5cyeZmyhDMDOECslIKjbdwg0Nl8ozfiBMopg691kQcqh1vUaPulDb-9r/s320/pic+4.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><div><div>On Wednesday, 8th of September, Wines of Chile hosted its annual trade tasting at London's Royal Horticultural Halls. Wines from more than 90 estates were on show. Among the exhibitors were many well-known wineries like Errázuriz, MontGras and Santa Carolina, but also "Newcomers" seeking importers like Bisquertt or Vina Maola. </div><div> </div><div>Over the last few years, Chile succeeded in building a reputation among consumers for supplying wines with one of the best price/quality ratios in the world, particularly in the entry-level segment of fruit-forward, easy-drinking young wines. </div><div>In two industry briefings during the event, Michael Cox (UK Director of Wines of Chile) and Gerrard Basset MW gave an update on Chile's wine industry. Nielsen data show a steady growth of share by volume both in UK's off- and on-trade markets, with even higher increasing shares by<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSUU45VwGrz22p3zz36eXKrq3rkTpU5TqmtGlGdHtB4-afxsxMkVgNVrxJwkzjGwywj-Wv1WbbNJ_NSHyHs9w8sWQDATkgosw06Q71n_p3D_3uwUOgAa_4ha_iHhw5FuinQQAyLuCVjRB/s1600/pic+1.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515280368190674786" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 213px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSUU45VwGrz22p3zz36eXKrq3rkTpU5TqmtGlGdHtB4-afxsxMkVgNVrxJwkzjGwywj-Wv1WbbNJ_NSHyHs9w8sWQDATkgosw06Q71n_p3D_3uwUOgAa_4ha_iHhw5FuinQQAyLuCVjRB/s320/pic+1.bmp" border="0" /></a> value in the off-trade. Quality keeps improving considerably, and especially wines from cooler regions like Elqui, Casablanca or Limarí generate premium prices + improve the image of Chilean wines in the off-trade. Wines of Chile would wish the on-trade to get more confidence in the premium potential as well and encourage demanding guests to try their top wines and thus help improving acceptance for premium prices. It is acknowledged that distinctive features like rarity / small scale production are needed in order to achieve this in the on-trade, but this can absolutely be found when sought. Furthermore, hardly any other country is as suited to organic / biodynamic viticulture as Chile, due to its opportune climatic conditions, which is another ideally suited approach to distinction.</div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515280470796868818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 120px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC0UjevE8CboB1mULlsNicur9_KPgXdOVdHb_1iN4DR_AlZKLCQCwH_CLudDY7VXd9iUiyi4vGcf9gL0htFZf8o3y89AtzBZemIkhSdWg2qPht92HVfi8EAyDysSHi2h-xQLS-v5rByWii/s320/pic+2.bmp" border="0" /><br /><div></div><br /><div>As a survey carried out by Wine Intelligence (Vinitrac) suggests, current Chilean wine imagery of regular UK wine drinkers is dominated by "red wine varietals", "full-bodied rich" and "good quality taste", followed by "Andes mountains" and "good value". With increasing potential especially seen in cool climate white wines like Sauvignon Blanc and medium-bodied reds made from Pinot Noir, the current associations provide suitable links to hook onto, but also comprise the danger of diluting the achieved imagery. So any promotional efforts should take this into consideration.</div></div><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>One of the special focus tastings featured a line up of Chile's gold and trophy winning wines in 2010's International Wine Challenge, Decanter World Wine Awards, Sommelier Wine Awards and The Annual Wines of Chile Awards.</div><div></div><br /><div><br />A brilliant idea indeed was another showcase table with up to 10 wines from each of Chile's premium wine regions: Elqui, Limarí & Choapa, Aconcagua, Maipo, Casablanca, San <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZhh0Ei-UY_LL8B96RrzigZCVNqtrHOUgB_UT_OSiZYihYHZp01aHDo88fED79v-9qKRvzPm942E-YE98ObSAxZ_WtF-OGvnOMNvJdQ7ulyxKvgUMEqzqK7_MC3IaPoA5sfH_pocCVvMl/s1600/pic+11.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515282134025089186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 120px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZhh0Ei-UY_LL8B96RrzigZCVNqtrHOUgB_UT_OSiZYihYHZp01aHDo88fED79v-9qKRvzPm942E-YE98ObSAxZ_WtF-OGvnOMNvJdQ7ulyxKvgUMEqzqK7_MC3IaPoA5sfH_pocCVvMl/s400/pic+11.bmp" border="0" /></a>Antonio/Leyda, Cachapoal, Colchagua, Curicó, Maule and Bío Bío. True regional characters could be easily compared and contrasted, the only downer was an increasing amount of samples becoming unavailable in the course of the afternoon. Personally, I found the consistency of high quality samples from Maipo and Aconcagua Valleys remarkable at all price points, whilst the samples chosen from Curicó and Maule showed weaker along most of the range.</div><br /><div><br /><div>My favourite discovery is 2006 Gracia de Chile Caminante from Cachapoal, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Syrah and 7% Cabernet Franc. Full-bodied, complex and with a great balance between ripe, juicy tannins and aromas, it displayed fresh black fruit flavours (blackcurrant, black cherry) along with herbal notes (thyme, mint, eucalypt) and savoury tertiary aromas of mushroom, tobacco and game.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div> </div><div>A third focus tasting table featured a selection of juicy Carmenères and Curry sauces, in order to encourage Indian food lovers to find a suitable match amongst Chile's wines. Whilst the approach was definitely worth a try and will surely find followers, personally, I would prefer an aromatic off-dry white or rosé, which can counter-balance the spiciness and does not seem astringent. And Gerrard Basset MW raised concerns in regards to the marketing strategy itself: Even if in the beginning the match of Curry and Carmenère proves successful, the variety then risks to be reduced by consumers to this one match in the long term. Also, the Indian cuisine has always been rich in a diversity of spices and flavours, has recently grown up and now features Michelin star chefs creating dishes of international appeal and innovation, and wines must pay tribute to this diversity.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh21u9_tmRsZ4HnazeKfR5jR1YKb-wkBs8G3_dqaVPk86ZcsWGdjucYjQcsaMTMA3iTnk2BMbf1uAmsL2xCV0elQAOYzKJ8Z33jrHkHw7TiNoIDBPIsXZlazyqaEgFe5r4q9KruY7a3keps/s1600/pic+10.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515281534170050722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 120px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh21u9_tmRsZ4HnazeKfR5jR1YKb-wkBs8G3_dqaVPk86ZcsWGdjucYjQcsaMTMA3iTnk2BMbf1uAmsL2xCV0elQAOYzKJ8Z33jrHkHw7TiNoIDBPIsXZlazyqaEgFe5r4q9KruY7a3keps/s320/pic+10.bmp" border="0" /></a>Very impressive, on the other hand, was Matt Wilson's photographic <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMZOQ8FQTKl86zXJfWRnsUgvw_Z3nQVhw6OcnkmmL1_OEROA60WUQ_NNIOe_KUgo-KKgQwvwWl997s4CrphRbwgaeQWxIUMQ7vQmxYRjyNjIgnvxvQAsKMjjTKo1VXpwsaDQNylx1WIW6/s1600/pic+9.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5515281756041322322" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 120px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMZOQ8FQTKl86zXJfWRnsUgvw_Z3nQVhw6OcnkmmL1_OEROA60WUQ_NNIOe_KUgo-KKgQwvwWl997s4CrphRbwgaeQWxIUMQ7vQmxYRjyNjIgnvxvQAsKMjjTKo1VXpwsaDQNylx1WIW6/s400/pic+9.bmp" border="0" /></a>exhibition on the aftermath of the earthquake that struck Chile in February. A total of 125 million litres of wine were lost, worth 250 million USD, mainly 2009 vintage stored in tanks which got damaged. Many buildings were destroyed, wineries, cellars, homes alike. Prices for bulk wines increased considerably.<br /><br />But: "No hay mal que por bien no venga" - Something good arises from everything bad. The destruction of buildings released a high degree of solidarity among the Chilean population, as well as unexpected forces driving towards a quick recovery within this year, in which the bicentennial anniversary of Chile's independence is celebrated. Also, rebuilding the affected cellars is often combined with considerable modernization, which will help to further increase quality in the future. And finally, the lost volumes have reduced over-supply, thus stabilizing the market and offering an opportunity for jointly countering in the quality-versus-pricing battle.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Independent for 200 years, Chile's wine industry today presents itself strong, confident and highly ambitious. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>More information on Chile's regions, estates and wines can be found under <a href="http://www.winesofchile.org/">http://www.winesofchile.org/</a></div><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-72537120261949430502010-09-03T11:17:00.000-07:002010-09-23T07:27:27.677-07:00Le Cahors and Château de ChambertApproaching Chateau de Chambert is spectacular, even on a cloudy day. Situated at the highest part of the South Quercy limestone plateau (in the heart of Cahors), with a steep alley leading to it, it is not only impressive, but also a bit of an adventure to get there without a four wheel drive (at least, if you ignore the alternative route to the right, like I managed to...).<br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512759133226792338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkTLRUkNChmIoTBG03ZS9KmztuMTG5PspUYZUZTHl9qtMeUK1z0yuolMWpkUHq7lWsm2WIZge3hhxbMxWcUNB7Y_QhfDw2hBGqVUF3RbobjtxAciBS65EJ9coXLXypTnO8BO22oUgHkVo-/s320/DSC00065.JPG" border="0" /></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"></span><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div><br />Chateau de Chambert's history is strongly intertwined with Cahors', which was already famous for its 'black wines' made from the Malbec grape variety, locally called Auxerrois, in the Middle Ages. It produces deeply coloured, very tannic wines, with dark berry fruit, earthy aromas and cedar notes from oak ageing. Even if free trade via rivers Lot and Garonne was often hampered by Bordeaux merchants (who would rather use them for blending into their Bordeaux wines than letting them pass without high tariffs), Cahors wines were famous and highly appreciated in Northern Europe. Back then, Chateau de Chambert wines were already exported to England and Russia.<br /><br /><br />End of the 19th century, phylloxera devastated the region. But unlike in so many other European wine-growing regions, vines were not replanted here until 1973! There was simply no rootstock to be found that matched with Malbec. It took many decades until Montpellier University's viticultural research center has cultivated the right rootstock, and since the 1970s, Malbec vineyards gradually increased (for this purpose, the clones had to be re-imported from Argentina). But still, many former vineyards lie fellow, and many ruins in the region still bear testimony to Cahor's decay due to Phylloxera. On the other hand, hardly any other region can be said to host as many treasures waiting to be rediscovered and revived.<br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br />Since 2007, Chateau de Chambert is owned by Philippe Lejeune who - with financial investments sustained by his innovative IT career, know-how from consultant Stephane Derenoncourt and a passionate team - manages the estate on its path towards biodynamic viticulture as well as international recognition. The declared aim is to bring the title 'world's best Malbec' from Argentina back home to Cahors.<br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512759668068988242" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvXa96LAy-XZ_UOCQITYrnB5uXyjN7qdCaX9qGo1ctre_XKJBbYShbwLxKN6o6Iuv_deEptZD48y-Ka2U-xnm3ogVEJYDe5MziIOr-5ajzs1YlyKuPwqw38vB8ArWNR_mK_cm-9kbSQg5Q/s320/DSC00074.JPG" border="0" /></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"><br /></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />My host: Jan Arend (taking care of national sales and administration)<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Today, the estate produces a wide range of styles, with the Grand Vin being its flagship product made from 100% Malbec. The GOURMAND red and rosee wines are fruit-driven and easy-drinking, with Malbec constituting 80% of the blend, and 20% Merlot to give mellow roundness and lush fruit. In order to accommodate the clients' demand for a complementing white wine of this brand, the estate has just planted a few hectares of Chardonnay, which is expected to be very well suited to soils and mesoclimate. And there is ROGOMME, a fortified dessert wine, produced according to a 300 year old 'recipe' Philippe found when searching the Chateau's archives: very ripe and healthy Malbec grapes are heated in pots containing prune flavours (from previous prune production) and wine is reduced. The resulting liquid, which is highly concentrated in flavours of prune, blackcurrant and elderberries as well as very tannic, is fortified with grape spirit and aged in French oak barrels for 18 months, picking up notes of tobacco, sweet spice and dark chocolate.<br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512759838228539474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOzL2aPuurIo8JgYRkS9T_P0exyEvkP7fxFCdpUiuG_gDNhHkvi17ktHBOx7neWBTkZwAc3512LLnWC3nhAqbNLLqW29M6uRt9nefVKtJLbTM6trKOUNpjfrC8IVU8zYxl8MrOWD0MDoHK/s320/DSC00076.JPG" border="0" /></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;"><br /></span><div></div><div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamrB6KgfSdJ2hjaJX1_doRoUkdHxZ0BGjSVpdVWSwK7e5zu1C7W5T2sbiNbCFgODZZ-JjK0FriLXkAoEbLNvWLDLMnXkgTWrZo-fFN7YYMae8MeG4bRuzAeeOTlYd80vzZ80TWfT4t4LX/s1600/DSC00078.JPG"></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOzL2aPuurIo8JgYRkS9T_P0exyEvkP7fxFCdpUiuG_gDNhHkvi17ktHBOx7neWBTkZwAc3512LLnWC3nhAqbNLLqW29M6uRt9nefVKtJLbTM6trKOUNpjfrC8IVU8zYxl8MrOWD0MDoHK/s1600/DSC00076.JPG"></a><br /><br />The Grand Vin is aged in French oak barrels for 12-18 months (25% new barrels each year) and then bottled unfiltered.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTkIIRchJPd7pDAdPqV7KRGjdAoQLIiIf_WjFWyeaj8F7CZVFHJ1p8U9iMEC5TE2DjTAVZmHNTCYOu1a3hFxURqKV0K0SDL5VI56ishuiO6B8l-8Tpy1hixQUwq11xuvUluoPi0COBOfv/s1600/DSC00069.JPG"></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512760025253898514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamrB6KgfSdJ2hjaJX1_doRoUkdHxZ0BGjSVpdVWSwK7e5zu1C7W5T2sbiNbCFgODZZ-JjK0FriLXkAoEbLNvWLDLMnXkgTWrZo-fFN7YYMae8MeG4bRuzAeeOTlYd80vzZ80TWfT4t4LX/s400/DSC00078.JPG" border="0" /></span></div><div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000ee;">Cozy tasting room at Chateau de Chambert, inside and outside slightly reminiscent of Hagrid's hut (Harry Potter)</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="COLOR: rgb(0,0,238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline"></span></div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGekMhz641-QuCL4LACIZJgLahHCHebZjrwrpqaCzdDY4RVXitrIh4ICDYPVPGocZ-qL1EQ1IU5gZ1vXo8i1LAzfyctM8aeCuWqO4o_4LUcDd3OHAuFjb4VzK5D6MEJKXLQ59RaM84Dx1R/s1600/DSC00066.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512759281385570162" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGekMhz641-QuCL4LACIZJgLahHCHebZjrwrpqaCzdDY4RVXitrIh4ICDYPVPGocZ-qL1EQ1IU5gZ1vXo8i1LAzfyctM8aeCuWqO4o_4LUcDd3OHAuFjb4VzK5D6MEJKXLQ59RaM84Dx1R/s320/DSC00066.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Please see www.chambert.com for further information.<br /><br /><div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkTLRUkNChmIoTBG03ZS9KmztuMTG5PspUYZUZTHl9qtMeUK1z0yuolMWpkUHq7lWsm2WIZge3hhxbMxWcUNB7Y_QhfDw2hBGqVUF3RbobjtxAciBS65EJ9coXLXypTnO8BO22oUgHkVo-/s1600/DSC00065.JPG"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-2132678213370502672010-09-03T11:11:00.000-07:002010-09-07T07:39:54.250-07:00Domaine Rotier, Gaillac<div> </div><div>Gaillac in the Eastern bit of France's Southwest is a dynamic wine-growing region of approx. 2,700 ha, looking back to a long viticultural history (dating back to ancient Gaul) and forward to increasing investments, fuelled by increasing interest of the international markets in wines from Gaillac.</div><div><br /></div><div>Historically, the region's potential was already widely recognised when Bordeaux' vintners still struggled to produce wines of quality in their less dependable climate zone, whilst warmer temperatures in Gaillac helped growing concentrated and powerful wines from a wide range of local grape varieties. Along with Champagne and Limoux, Gaillac is also known for its early experiments with and improvements for making sparkling wines. This is mainly due to the local white variety Mauzac, which ripens late and was therefore traditionally harvested late. Fermentation would stop during cold winters and re-start in spring, after the wines had been already bottled. Initially not fully understood and rather seen as fault or accident, the sparkling style soon became popular in the region and was further encouraged by arrival of stronger bottles, less likely to break under the CO2 pressure building up inside. </div><div><br /></div><div>Situated at the shores of river Tarn, which flows into the Garonne, the location was basically perfect for shipping Gaillac wines to Northern Europe, and in the Middle Ages they were highly esteemed in England, for example. However, the trading route was often thwarted by stiff tariffs and hostile conditions imposed by protectionist Bordeaux merchants. The more successful Bordeaux wines became, the more difficult it became for Gaillac (and other regions of France's South-West) to find a way to markets and customers abroad.</div><div><br /></div><div>Today, Gaillac strives to step out of its niche existence and regain its former glory. Several ambitious, innovative producers like Alain Rotier and Francis Marre from Domaine Rotier are the driving force behind this movement. Their first mission was to transform the family venture from growing grapes (for supplying the local cooperative) into a full-service estate bottling wine under its own label. Having always been environmentally conscious and protective, their next mission was the transformation to organic viticulture, for which Domaine Rotier was certified in 2009.</div><div><br /><div> </div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512752381087319266" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxhLMCOjcK1b5_B7KrXtkf0Fu6o1r1fs7shK3TGNrVmYuCwoMeRjwA93D7oJ6PVGBp79IwklXM_IqmZxmV_jcd0TEpJ7vzPN6DRyZyXdjCWUScbRaQcilxlOdIdJ4Ka9ynW-lyEJ6RrJD/s200/DSC00044.JPG" border="0" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; width: 200px; height: 150px; " /></span><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512752577958273666" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoOZrvWGYN1_UDlzkLQChzHDNegjNaKzQ5pEMP3cuu-CG53PvNkKKwBTfjyA6bnJUD942zwSZVhrr149KUUdRLPsnjDF2m9vM_WHVqKHAwWzGyeYc_DM8qOrLdWV8C-7p-5iMa6uB6LZrh/s320/DSC00045.JPG" border="0" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; width: 320px; cursor: pointer; height: 240px; text-align: center; " /></span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "></span><div> </div><br /><div> </div><div>On their 35 ha planted on a plateau with a mix of alluvial and gravelly soils on the left side of river Tarn, they bring out the best of the region's rich heritage in local varieties:</div><div><br /></div><div> </div>Len de l'oeil's* translation 'far from the eye' refers to its particularly long peduncles, which are far away from the eye or bud of the branch, and also far away from the eye of the harvester, which may resulted in some grapes being left behind. Readily over-producing if not severely pruned, it has not such a good reputation for delivering high quality wines, and was widely used as 'working horse' of dry white Gaillac blends. With yield restrictions, however, wines are much more promising, and as the variety is prone to noble rot, it can also supply very concentrated, nectar-like musts. At Domaine Rotier, Len de l'oeil is used for producing both dry wines (RENAISSANCE and INITIALES) and sweet, botrytised wines under the RENAISSANCE and LES GRAVELS brands (partly blended with Sauvignon Blanc).<br /><div> </div><br /></div><div>* Other spellings (e.g. Len de lElh) are common as well.</div><div><br /></div><div>Duras, Braucol and Syrah are the black grape varieties used at Domaine Rotier. Duras gives round, supple red fruit aromas and a spicy pepper note. Braucol is high in tannins and colour pigments, and functions as the backbone of many red wines of Gaillac. In other regions, it is known as Fer Servadou, which translates into 'wild keeping well'. This could refer to the grapes high resistance against mould and/or its good ageing potential. Low yields and late harvest at Domaine Rotier, Braucol ensure that only ripe grapes of good aroma concentration are used. Different percentages of the varieties provide the blends for L'AME (the estate's premium brand), RENAISSANCE (ageing in French oak barrels), LES GRAVELS (micro-oxygenation in stainless steel tanks) and INITIALES (entry-level).</div><div><br /></div><div>Prunelart used to be a common grape variety used in all Gaillac red wine blends of the Middle Ages. Having been particularly prone to damage by phylloxera, it was nearly extinct, and only in recent years it is winning ground again. One hectar of it was planted at Domaine Rotier in 2009 and will be ready to make part of the blend in a few years.<br /><div> </div><br /><div> </div><br /><div> </div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaAiJfOPixTbeMv4LHloKy4Vxb2uCmoBkoDTipjbQD08-m5lwC6xOqOYKA3dyt6u64OlLI4ipZlEH6Nvx95G2iuy33_cca4eJSjjVXDKXbMRXRJHC-82wQ6i3yIOuz_LuhzYeZ9i_8BcDp/s1600/DSC00048.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512752839407918642" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaAiJfOPixTbeMv4LHloKy4Vxb2uCmoBkoDTipjbQD08-m5lwC6xOqOYKA3dyt6u64OlLI4ipZlEH6Nvx95G2iuy33_cca4eJSjjVXDKXbMRXRJHC-82wQ6i3yIOuz_LuhzYeZ9i_8BcDp/s400/DSC00048.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /></div><div>Francis Marre explaining the viticultural principles of Domaine Rotier<br /><br /><div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>For further information please visit www.domaine-rotier.com</div><p> </p></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-63019165984532602202010-08-10T10:23:00.000-07:002010-08-10T16:25:27.627-07:00Fronton, Le Roc & FlotisFronton AOC starts just north of Toulouse, and is situated between the rivers Garonne and Tarn. Characteristic for Fronton's wines is the black grape variety Négrette. It has evolved from the Greek Mavro, which had been brought to the region by Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem from one of their crusades to Cyprus in the 12th century. The vineyards themselves date back to Roman times, who have acknowledged the region's potential and planted vineyards on the marl and stony silt & clay soils (locally called boulbènes). Négrette must dominate the red and rosé AC wines, with lower percentages of Syrah and/or Cabernet Sauvignon allowed in the blends as well. Négrette contributes fruit-forwardness and a perfume reminiscent of violet, sometimes also gamey notes, whilst Syrah and Cabernet provide backbone, structure and complexity. <div><div><div> </div><div> </div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503923597750682738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmByFTgLGGYx_0h6tOJmpPOb-lWyTufPmByFDv3a8byvdCYMHzQCP5mfeu8v5CcMZxs83RFCE0hrsY9jfodT0dnABWuLmZaKcnVWLu4SBeJHBELmKE_mDJR6LHD-YDVDbIIgg2lWf7WUr/s320/DSC00060.JPG" border="0" /><br /><div>A very personal tasting in a cozy setting awaits me at Le Roc, hosted by Cathy Ribes, once the day's bottling run is finished. Cathy takes care of this estate along with her husband Jean-Luc, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0DHoFDkxDMb3B1juQ3WBi6a_OVR4eAZdMBpY_53oXSkJTnmlYgK24r-ZgNOGmNXxWLszwxQh43jWy2iMyu-pbS1UOU1D6Ce-q_ByfUCavM6-s87Q5S96SNxddKqZp2uNcY6O7aUYlDZE/s1600/DSC00063.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503923902242852386" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0DHoFDkxDMb3B1juQ3WBi6a_OVR4eAZdMBpY_53oXSkJTnmlYgK24r-ZgNOGmNXxWLszwxQh43jWy2iMyu-pbS1UOU1D6Ce-q_ByfUCavM6-s87Q5S96SNxddKqZp2uNcY6O7aUYlDZE/s320/DSC00063.JPG" border="0" /></a>his brother Frédéric and friend Pierre Salama. They not only share the jobs among them, but first of all the conviction that a great wine is primarily made from healthy grapes coming from healthy vines. In the pursuit of bringing out the best from their terroir, they pioneered in terms of being the first in the region to encourage cover crops many years ago. </div><br /><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Cathy also tells me about the second project she is involved in, with another team: Château Flotis has a long tradition as estate in Fronton, but since having been taken over by Katia Garrouste, Cathy and Myriam Ribes in 2004, it experiences new dynamics and benefits largely from such triple female energy. One of the first steps taken in 2004 was the construction of a modern cellar, half embedded underground and enabling movement of grapes, must and wines by gravity. Since 2009, Château Flotis' 28ha are being converted to biodynamic viticulture and as from 2013 the vineyards will be certified as such.<br /></div><div>More information are available under <a href="http://www.leroc-fronton.com/">http://www.leroc-fronton.com/</a> and <a href="http://www.chateau-flotis.com/">http://www.chateau-flotis.com/</a></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div></div><div><br /><br /><div>Direkt nördlich von Toulouse beginnt die Appellation Fronton, welche zwischen den beiden Flüssen Garonne und Tarn liegt. Charaktergebend für die Weine Frontons ist die Rebsorte Négrette. Diese hat sich im Laufe der Zeit aus der Griechischen Mavro-Sorte entwickelt, welche im 12. Jahrhundert von Kreuzfahrern Johanniterorderns aus Zypern mitgebracht worden war. Die Weinberge selbst wurden zu Zeiten des Römischen Reiches angelegt, auf Böden mit einem Gemisch aus Mergel, steinigem Schlick und Ton (hier boulbènes genannt). Négrette muss die Rot- und Roséweine der AC dominieren, aber auch Syrah und Cabernet Sauvignon sind als Verschnitt zugelassen. Négrette liefert sehr fruchtbetonte Aromen sowie einen parfumartigen Duft nach Veilchen und gelegentliche Noten von Wild, während Syrah und Cabernet zur Struktur und Komplexität beitragen.</div><div></div><br /><div>Eine Verkostung im sehr persönlichen und urigen Rahmen erwartet mich auf dem Weingut Le Roc. Nachdem das Tageswerk vollbracht ist, führt mich Cathy Ribes durch die verschiedenen Weine, die sie gemeinsam mit ihrem Mann Jean-Luc, dessen Bruder Frédéric und Freund Pierre Salama erzeugt. Die vier teilen nicht nur die Arbeit unter sich, sondern vor allem die Überzeugung, dass ein großartiger Wein nur aus gesunden Trauben von gesunden Rebstöcken erzeugt werden kann. Im Bestreben das Beste aus dem Terroir zu gewinnen, leisteten sie vor Jahren Pionierarbeit, indem sie als erste der Region deckende Vegetation im Weinberg förderten.</div><div> </div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503923745296071826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWm6Y_0TOyVX19c2i6hjmcYAyUpRzl7oLWQjZ-Ar_uc12JvYwEelWdB6QhyQ0fv9uwsA36MOLTokwHvez41zPg6jCDDllRu5VilULZNk-6fN8X8RA4hNxazp5r5BHx7XVtKbxGsUjI7MW/s320/DSC00062.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Cathy erzählt mir auch vom zweiten Projekt, in dem sie mit einem anderen Team engagiert ist: Château Flotis ist ein traditionell eingesessenes Weingut in Fronton, doch seitdem es 2004 von den drei Winzerinnen Katia Garrouste, Cathy and Myriam Ribes übernommen wurde, weht ein frischer Wind - die dreifache Frauenpower tut den Weinen ausgesprochen gut. Einer der zuerst veranlassten Schritte war der Bau eines modernen Kellers, welcher halb im Erdreich eingelassen ist und die Bewegung von Trauben, Most und Weinen per Schwerkraft ermöglicht. Seit 2009 befinden sich Château Flotis 28ha in der Konversionsphase zum biodynamischen Weinbau, ab 2013 werden sie als solche zertifiziert sein.</div><br /><div></div><div>Weitere Informationen sind unter <a href="http://www.leroc-fronton.com/">http://www.leroc-fronton.com/</a> und <a href="http://www.chateau-flotis.com/">http://www.chateau-flotis.com/</a> erhältlich.</div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-27960693416718596272010-08-09T11:12:00.000-07:002010-08-09T16:27:08.645-07:00Château du Tariquet - in praise of disobedienceHaving ambitiuos visions and skills in combination with a bit of lunacy, a lot of persistence and sufficient willingness to take risks is the most likely way to success and innovation. At least from my point of view, which seems to be pretty much in accordance with Château Tariquet's formula "in praise of disobedience".<br /><br />Being in the Grassa family's hands since 1912, the estate was traditionally renowned for its fine Bas-Armagnacs, distilled from base wines made from the white grape varieties Ugni Blanc, Baco and Folle Blanche. To the present, Tariquet is one of the top producers, with a diversity of styles ranging from a delicate, fruity, unaged Blanche (= white, made from 100% Folle Blanche) via Bas-Armagnacs of different grape blends and maturation times in oak barrels, to vintage brandies, and culminating in "l'Armagnac du Tariquet", an outstanding, complex and concentrated Bas-Armagnac (featuring aromas of vanilla, cocoa, lychee, rancio, prune, dates, orange peel, caramel, liquorice, banana, mellow oak, ...), of which the youngest component in the blend has been matured for at least 30 years.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503548904299645234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPfoNGnLTpKbw5Z2hsxk_uAi75WhPVjWPk1MI-uIwOw8chpYXslxeZsvN6wezrCQ1MtZZBwITdlPzryxi1CYOWG2HFie1xwT9bLVWkRQAOnjWWvX8XHg5purSFCsldx4BlYfCXEqFE3whW/s400/DSC00017.JPG" border="0" /><br />Tariquet's traditional Armagnac still, the 'alembic armagnacais', heated with wood + stalks of the grapes.<br />Tariquets traditioneller Armagnac-Distillierapparat, die 'alembic armagnacais', beheizt durch Holz und Traubenrappen.<br /><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><div>The 'rebellion' started in 1982: Family Grassa were the first in the Gers to believe in the potential of producing light white wines. Yves Grassa in particular, belonging to the second generation and responsible for the vineyards, was the one with visions and lunacy (with the rest of the family being skilled enough and willing to take risks as well to support him). So Château Tariquet bottled part of their harvest without prior distillation, and initiated new plantings of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc. New for the region, but not to France, you may say. Well, Yves did not stop there. He actually stated the grape vatieties on the label. New for most of France, you may say, but not for the world. Guess what, he did not stop there neither. He experimented <strong>successfully</strong> with blends like Chenin-Chardonnay or Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc. That was new. And is still rare today.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFZQfxCyrIUJATQoQXFPWy_rBc_hmLATAFYt5LN8nmfiCWFwDupevG4iMyQp1V1poBTJIC9w61-JVR59g32q8jm55zNZi3iYywhP_lfZOnKChnYEUNMURs3c4TFIMuv8A9lLupbeVmA4iD/s1600/DSC00013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503548507662898786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFZQfxCyrIUJATQoQXFPWy_rBc_hmLATAFYt5LN8nmfiCWFwDupevG4iMyQp1V1poBTJIC9w61-JVR59g32q8jm55zNZi3iYywhP_lfZOnKChnYEUNMURs3c4TFIMuv8A9lLupbeVmA4iD/s320/DSC00013.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div>Finding international achknowledgement (before regional), Yves Grassa became Decanter White Winemaker of the year in 1987. Encouraged by this honour, family Grassa expanded its vineyard area considerably - today the property comprises a total of 950ha, in a radius of 20km around the Château. </div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br /><br /></div><div></div><div>The range of white wines also includes a pair of brands made from the two Mansengs: "Les Premières Grives" is made from 100% Gros Manseng is named after the first thrushes arriving as migratory birds in autumn, passing the region on their way south, just when late harvest begins and the grapes for this wine are picked. It is easy-drinking and aromatic, with aromas of tropical fruits and a residual sugar of approx. 50g/l. Its pair is "Les Dernières Grives", made from 100% Petit Manseng, and named after the last flight of thrushes about to leave the region, with the harvest taking place just in time to save the berries from the birds' beaks. The wine is luscious, with aromas of lychee, spicy vanilla, white truffle and good acidity to counterbalance the sweetness.</div><div> </div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhl_yuFLHSimsaJ-sSaQ0afKKDl9p8WhxEY0WVrS-THg4hHbP57-g-CAsckmEmkFXeuQv78yJX2_1zVWg6NahR5Kkh9SDHafHbtjzbWaeACl39adNx_GyyT-O6A4fPL9-j4_Ks5piWB-3D/s1600/DSC00020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503550412474606034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhl_yuFLHSimsaJ-sSaQ0afKKDl9p8WhxEY0WVrS-THg4hHbP57-g-CAsckmEmkFXeuQv78yJX2_1zVWg6NahR5Kkh9SDHafHbtjzbWaeACl39adNx_GyyT-O6A4fPL9-j4_Ks5piWB-3D/s320/DSC00020.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br />Tasting Tariquet's whites and Armagnacs with Julien Ducos, the estate's Export Manager.</div><div></div><div>Im Probenraum mit Julien Ducos, Export Manager von Tariquet.<br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div>To summarize, Château Tariquet has more than one story to tell, is more than worth a visit and should be tasted more than once!<br /></div><div>More information are available under <a href="http://www.tariquet.com/">http://www.tariquet.com/</a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Ehrgeizige Visionen und Fachkenntnisse, in Verbindung mit ein wenig Wahnsinn, viel Durchhaltevermögen und genügend Risikobereitschaft, sind der wahrscheinlichste Weg zu Erfolg und Innovation. Zumindest aus meiner Sicht, welche sich weitgehend mit der Maxime vom Château Tariquet zu decken scheint: "Lobpreis auf den Ungehorsam".<br /></div><div>Seit 1912 im Besitz der Familie Grassa, war das Weingut traditionell bekannt für seine feinen Bas-Armagnacs, distilliert aus Grundweinen der Rebsorten Ugni Blanc, Baco und Folle Blanche. Bis heute zählt Tariquet zu den Top-Erzeugern von einer Vielfalt von Stilrichtungen, angefangen beim delikaten, fruchtigen, ungereiften Blanche (=Weiß, aus 100% Folle Blanche), über Bas-Armagnacs verschiedener Verschnitte und mit unterschiedlichen Reifeperio<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PL2Ymfgus7zfX_keP1z9WZjI_eQ_WdjFX5NVnWsDcteojO_BTxv0xGZ9znYpHinlXNFR89ndySSQwsP3mMPU2ew3cQ3i0BYLXU6pnY1O6HF-5sMlzZVbkngUaMwRCWbAfVMdCBrRJKVP/s1600/DSC00014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503548786163672962" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PL2Ymfgus7zfX_keP1z9WZjI_eQ_WdjFX5NVnWsDcteojO_BTxv0xGZ9znYpHinlXNFR89ndySSQwsP3mMPU2ew3cQ3i0BYLXU6pnY1O6HF-5sMlzZVbkngUaMwRCWbAfVMdCBrRJKVP/s200/DSC00014.JPG" border="0" /></a>den in Holzfässern, bis hin zu Jahrgangsbrandies; das Sortiment wird gekrönt von "l'Armagnac du Tariquet', einem herausragenden, komplexen, konzentrierten Bas-Armagnac, welcher Aromen von Vanille, Kakao, Lychee, Trockenpflaume, Dattel, Rancio, Orangenschale, Karamell, Lakritze, Banane, mildem Holz, ... bietet und dessen jüngester Verschnittbestandteil mindestens 30 Jahre alt ist.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div><br /><br />Die "Rebellion" begann 1982: Familie Grassa war die erste in Gers, welche ans Potenzial der Region zur Produktion von leichten Weißweinen glaubte. Insbesondere Ives Grassa, Sohn aus 2. Generation und verantwortlich für die Weinberge, hatte die Vision und ausreichend Wahnsinn inne (während der Rest der Familie über genügend Fachkenntnisse und Risikobereitschaft verfügte, um das Projekt zu unterstützen). So füllte Château Tariquet von da an eine Teil der jährlichen Ernte ohne vorherige Distillation ab und begann mit Neupflanzungen von Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc und Chenin Blanc. Neu in dieser Gegend, mögen Sie einwenden, aber doch nicht in Frankreich. Nun, Yves' Neuerungen endeten hiermit nicht. Er ließ die Rebsorten aufs Etikett aufdrucken. Neu für einen Großteil Frankreichs, mögen Sie einwenden, nicht jedoch für die Welt. Aber Yves ging noch weiter: er experimentierte <strong>erfolgreich</strong> mit Verschnitten von Chardonnay mit Chenin Blanc oder Chardonnay mit Sauvignon Blanc. Das war damals neu und ist heute noch selten. </div><div><br /></div><div>Yves Grassa fand internationale Anerkennung (vor regionaler) und wurde 1987 Decanter Weißweinproduzent des Jahres. Von diesem Erfolg angespornt, weitete Familie Grassa ihren Bestand an Weinbergen erheblich aus und bewirtschaftet heute eine Gesamtfläche von 950ha, welche sich in einem Radius von 20km rund ums Château befindet.</div><div><br /><br /></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5503550559238644210" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTSSkBJ1Dh3pYalVPHUWOzCxx0bQilnh_1WYzLNK_Cd4BXOhsVCs0GsrR19Y8xVnVpeCOrwA8heucQIuud_BzzTmRWiV9e1gdeAw22E6uianuKWpq2ODT3uCk9xXyP1SQYTHXasw9TmZa_/s400/DSC00019.JPG" border="0" />Château Tariquet owns one of the largest 'parks' of pneumatic wine presses.</div><div>Château Tariquet verfügt über einen der größten 'Parks' mit pneumatischen Weinpressen.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Die Auswahl an Weißweinen beinhaltet auch ein Markenpaar aus den beiden Mansengs: "Les Premières Grives" wird aus 100% Gros Manseng hergestellt und ist nach den ersten Drosseln benannt, die alljährlich als Zugvögel die Region auf ihrem Weg in den Süden passieren, und zur Zeit der späten Lese ankommen, bei der die Trauben für diesen Wein geerntet werden. Der Wein ist fruchtig und saftig, mit Aromen tropischer Früchte und einem Restzucker von ca. 50g/l. </div><div>Sein Gegenstück bildet "Les Dernières Grives", aus 100% Petit Manseng gewonnen, und gerade noch rechtzeitig gelesen, um die Beeren vor den unersättlichen Schnäbeln der letzten Drosseln zu retten. Der Wein ist üppig, mit Aromen von Lychee, würziger Vanille, weißem Trüffel sowie einer hohen Säure, welche die Restsüße in Harmonie bringt. </div><div><br />Um es zusammenzufassen: Château Tariquet hat mehr als eine Geschichte zu erzählen, ist einen Besuch mehr als wert und sollte mehr als einmal verkostet werden. </div><div><br />Weitere Informationen stehen unter <a href="http://www.tariquet.com/">http://www.tariquet.com/</a> zur Verfügung.</div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-80382091410800021532010-07-28T11:39:00.000-07:002010-08-01T14:36:24.337-07:00France's South West part 1 - Producteurs Plaimont / Cooperative Saint-MontWhen I made an appointment to visit the Producteurs Plaimont, I knew that this cooperative belonged to France's best. But I certainly I had no clue about what was really awaiting me in Saint-Mont, their headquarters.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499467355276753106" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYZZYgJzql1LoZJnSlQ2KYDLxUnkgH50e9Lf5bepD0oNkOtuIkpF7eM0VuCbysbFvaZelzvUtASJdQIXgQEODLmwJ_huhyphenhyphenYfrZ7zVPfWqMWf8YYrwDUWAxENIOVilV5P9wpnpPEntkY5up/s200/DSC00041.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />Getting there was adventurous enough, through a pittoresque hillside on the left and right bank of river Adour, roads getting ever smaller and signpost rare. If you want to spend a peaceful vacation time in a remote area, check out Gascony, and no mobile phone connection, promised! With the Pyrenees close by, chilled air drifts down the hillsides at night, so temperatures at night are much lower than during rather warm or even hot daytime. This results in a long growth cycle of the vines and high levels of natural acidity in the grapes and wines. In the middle ages, Benedictine monks discovered the high quality potential of this region.<br /><br /><br /><p>Today, many of the sites classified best back then are cultivated by the cooperative's members. Black grape varieties are mostly found on gravel soils of east- and southfacing slopes, whilst white grape varities are rather grown on clay and limestone soils of slopes facing west. Founded in 1979, and having had a very dynamic, forward-looking approach from the very beginning, the cooperative is formed by 650 growers today, and produces a wide range of wines from different grape varieties, appellations, styles and quality levels. </p><br />The cooperative's top seller is "Colombelle", a white Vin de Pays de Gascogne made from the varieties Colombard, Ugni Blanc and Listan. This wine in fresh, fruity, easy-drinking style has quickly conquered the French + Northern European markets, and is nowadays also exported to all other continents.<br />But it is not "Colombelle" that has formed the grower's exceptional standing among cooperatives, but a wide range of more ambitious wines, with character, depth, complexity and capable of expressing terroir.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7fAVFYy_7uBdB69GtqbqX6C8ynHJ9pXHQVtYAcgSW2pn-2Sgd4XLWiB0tSP22NrJnBfmF6SqOxp67T4HX2x3ZWObOfjOM9NiJrcnjQ63jy1n2oAko7Z4hDbC5aiZCWn2mnm_qL7fPHHi/s1600/DSC00011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499465810261779586" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7fAVFYy_7uBdB69GtqbqX6C8ynHJ9pXHQVtYAcgSW2pn-2Sgd4XLWiB0tSP22NrJnBfmF6SqOxp67T4HX2x3ZWObOfjOM9NiJrcnjQ63jy1n2oAko7Z4hDbC5aiZCWn2mnm_qL7fPHHi/s200/DSC00011.JPG" border="0" /></a>I am shown around by Philippe Anthony, sales manager, and Laurent Paré, chief-winemaker. Both are young, highly motivated, familiar to working with the industry's state-of-the-art technology in both vineyard and winery, and aware of developments all over the world. Although not native to Gascony, they are passionate about the region's potential and firmly believe in the cooperative's philosophy and quality management.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Philippe Anthony<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7fAVFYy_7uBdB69GtqbqX6C8ynHJ9pXHQVtYAcgSW2pn-2Sgd4XLWiB0tSP22NrJnBfmF6SqOxp67T4HX2x3ZWObOfjOM9NiJrcnjQ63jy1n2oAko7Z4hDbC5aiZCWn2mnm_qL7fPHHi/s1600/DSC00011.JPG"></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7fAVFYy_7uBdB69GtqbqX6C8ynHJ9pXHQVtYAcgSW2pn-2Sgd4XLWiB0tSP22NrJnBfmF6SqOxp67T4HX2x3ZWObOfjOM9NiJrcnjQ63jy1n2oAko7Z4hDbC5aiZCWn2mnm_qL7fPHHi/s1600/DSC00011.JPG"></a><br />In the vineyard, the quality management includes 'l'agriculture raisonnée' (an environment-friendly agriculture, which can be summarized as 'intervening as little as possible, but as much as necessary'), summer pruning according to expected weather conditions, green harvest, rigid yield restrictions adapted to every single plot, a careful monitoring of the different ripeness levels + obligatory hand-harvest for all grapes in the appellations Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and Saint-Mont at exactly the time requested by the chief-winemaker.<br /><br />Throughout the production process, the traceability of the grapes is maintained, in order that every bottle can be matched to the corresponding plot(s) of origin. In the cellars, quality management includes movement of the wines by gravity, temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel vats, except for part of the premium whites, which are barrel-fermented in 225-l barriques bordelaises followed by an extended time of ageing on their lees (which reductive properties have been reduced regular stirring beforehand, for a month and separated from the wine), barrel ageing for most reds and some whites (with maturation time between 6 and 14 months in barriques, which are used up to 3 years), crossflow filtration, and inhouse bottling + laboratory facilities.<br /><br /><br /><br />In spite of producing a couple of millions of bottles every year, the team manages to pay utmost attention to detail for each different style and quality level. This also applies to Marketing, which succeeds in giving individual images to the brands, with each one telling a different, yet credible story; and supporting local events, like the annual jazz festival of Marciac (featuring starts like Lionel Hampton or Dee Dee Bridewater). And to the reception of guests, which is not only very hospitable, but also very adaptable to the different needs and expectations of the guests, ranging from a very friendly and effective visitor centre suited for amateurs and large tourist groups alike, to very personalized business visits or special events like hosting weddings.<br /><br /><br /><br />Thus many factors influence the Producteurs Plaimont's success. To me, they all seem to be part of one key factor, which is the very successful teamwork based on a joint vision, encouraging each member's strengths and being open to ideas, whilst at the same time remaining committed to Gascony's traditions and heritage. In other words, the Producteurs Plaimont manage to combine authenticity and modernity, and cater to the needs of very different target groups.<br /><br />But let's have a look at the quality wines now:<br /><br /><br />Madiran AOC is known for its highly tannic wines, a blended wine with a high percentage of the black Tannat grape variety (bringing structure and backbone to the wines), complemented by Pinenc (ancient variety rediscovered, bringing fruity and floral aromas to the blend) and Cabernet Sauvignon. A minimum maturation of 1 year is required by law, but most of these wines need a much longer time in bottle, before they become accessible. Next to these traditional styles, the Producteurs Plaimont have created "Maestria", a modern version, which can be drunk right after release, thanks to very ripe grape material and micro-oxygenation.<br /><br /><br /><br /><p>Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is Gascon meaning "vines planted in rows in the old country". This appelation produces tangy, white blends made from</p><p>Petit Courbu (ancient grape variety, adding ripe fruit aromas and body to the blend)</p><p>Arrufiac (re-discovered by André Dubosc of the Plaimont cooperative in the 1980s, bringing floral notes and elegance to the wine)</p><p>Petit Manseng (top quality white grape variety, low-yielding, suitable for dessert wine production by passérillage method,with grapes drying to raisins on the vines) and</p><p>Gros Manseng (Basque grape suited for drier versions, contributing crisp acidity and citrus notes to the blend). </p><p>All Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is hand-picked and requires passing through the vineyard several times. The last go is for producing "Saint-Sylvestre", starting just before midnight on 31. December and going on till early morning of New Year's day. The aromas of the berries picked in this special, festive atmosphere are particularly concentrated and rich. </p><p>Chief-winemaker Laurent Paré scooping precious nectar from a barrel reserved for "<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-Kuk9FVpgzPvLR0H7W10_CMGW9E1nkBW0SP_URLgXU60vl5ijoZ4mbC-khn2LaKJ-y5_Ta1UkinxC-_MAdd4vWOVkpa_Oi2-x8uRyrc-Z2NSthgu-QlElZ13f9obUHD84CWKN-Z0pCoE/s1600/DSC00010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499465626532362002" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-Kuk9FVpgzPvLR0H7W10_CMGW9E1nkBW0SP_URLgXU60vl5ijoZ4mbC-khn2LaKJ-y5_Ta1UkinxC-_MAdd4vWOVkpa_Oi2-x8uRyrc-Z2NSthgu-QlElZ13f9obUHD84CWKN-Z0pCoE/s200/DSC00010.JPG" border="0" /></a>Les Barriques d'Or", a wine auction taking place every year in November for Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh wines.<br />Kellermeister Laurent Paré schöpft kostbaren Nektar aus einem Holzfass, das für "Les Barriques d'Or" reserviert ist, eine jährlich im November stattfindende Weinversteigerung.<br /><br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Côtes de Saint-Mont is a VDQS appellation heading for AC status, producing red, white and rosé wines. The reds must be made with at least 60% of Tannat, with the rest being Pinenc, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, whilst the rosés are produced by Saignée method from Tannat and the two Cabernet varieties. The whites are vinified from Arrufiac, Petit Courbu and Gros Manseng. Among various brands, which are all produced from these traditional varieties, "Les Vignes Retrouvés" (the re-discovered vines) and "Le Faite" form the two premium lines. The grapes partly come from pre-phylloxera vines, the poor soils having successfully resisted the pest's disastrous devastation. Le Faite, carrying an eye-catching wooden, sealed charm as label, is blended by a yearly changing panel of award-winning sommeliers and members of the on-trade. A mere 6,ooo bottles of white and 4,000 bottles of red Le Faite are produced per vintage.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDToLUZThyimtIe-9db6dnrx6_7CLNhcCijVk2pZFZXf30Epf4JRYK9u3jdVXzO4tfdfbHZLjNZ_4S9IF_R8TCUYyMqh70ZwTDN6AQIvv4PHz6X758_eHXCds9OOfG7DOcuVlA6myAoRiG/s1600/DSC00029.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499467106895176466" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDToLUZThyimtIe-9db6dnrx6_7CLNhcCijVk2pZFZXf30Epf4JRYK9u3jdVXzO4tfdfbHZLjNZ_4S9IF_R8TCUYyMqh70ZwTDN6AQIvv4PHz6X758_eHXCds9OOfG7DOcuVlA6myAoRiG/s200/DSC00029.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>In the Saint-Mont appellation, the cooperative also owns 4 Châteaux and 1 Domaine: Château de Sabazan produces a mere 45.000 bottles of red wine per vintage, from very reduced yields, in order to concentrate aromas in both grapes and wines; Château Saint-Go with a yearly production of approx. 130.000 of red and 28.000 bottles of white wine; Château de la Roque; Château du Bascou, which also offers accomodation; and le Monastère de Saint-Mont, the original home to the Benedictine monks.</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499467001207447250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxJWlj10XCv64ZXuot4ixBtBuNmEWagdDOs7KOV7kmGxgsUQMGZG8T4fvM_VP9Evj3m9E7xLYO3IYOO493FnwE7RIRfYHBJ1lkYOKRmNsu31bC8wwwQGCP-Z1juBMyDjMyW1TPaO-pKNJ/s200/DSC00027.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>More information are available under <a href="http://www.plaimont.com/">http://www.plaimont.com/</a></p><br /><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p>Als ich den Besuch bei den Producteurs Plaimont vereinbare, weiß ich zwar, dass diese Winzergenossenschaft zu Frankreichs besten gehört. Aber ich ahne nicht, was mich tatsächlich in Saint-Mont, der Hauptproduktionsstätte, erwarten wird!</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499466879866103138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgioKTyMVWXsl6xL6viFexQJf1oD3y9SY7pDqd6gJyJBH47dAsqadFNRYpwWKIuQ7MBWG4ZeXIPU3dUdi8XyE2bZ6SNxvG5VygMR8PrvFyv9_lngipzUsY_GScU4iwnZqavBGcoMp2NOirE/s200/DSC00023.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>Die Anfahrt allein ist schon wild-romantisch, die Straßen werden immer enger und Straßenschilder selten. Wer einen ungestörten Urlaub verbringen möchte, dem sei diese Gegend wärmstens empfohlen, Handyempfang ausgeschlossen! Die hügelige Landschaft im Tal links und rechts vom Fluss Adour liegt nicht weit entfernt von den Pyrenäen, deren kalte Abwinde nachts für kühle Temperaturen sorgen, während es tagsüber sehr warm werden kann. Die daraus resultierende lange Vegetationsperiode und relativ hohe Säurewerte wirken sich sehr positiv auf die Qualität der Weine aus. Im Mittelalter erkannten Benediktinermönche das Potential dieser Region und trieben den Weinbau erfolgreich voran.<br /></p><p>Viele der von den Benediktinern als beste Lagen identifizierten Weinberge werden heute von den Genossenschaftswinzern bewirtschaftet. Dabei werden auf Kieselböden der östlichen und südlichen Hanglagen eher Rotweinsorten und auf kalkhaltigen, nach Westen ausgerichteten Tonböden eher Weißweinsorten angebaut. Im Jahr 1979 gegründet, und von Anfang an dynamisch und fortschrittlich orientiert, wird die Genossenschaft heute von 650 Winzern getragen und umfasst Rebflächen in den Appellationen Saint Mont, Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh sowie Côtes de Gascogne. Sie produziert eine Fülle verschiedener Weine von unterschiedlichen Rebsorten, Anbaugebieten, Stilrichtungen und Qualitätsstufen. </p><br /><br />Der meistverkaufte Wein der Producteurs Plaimont ist "Colombelle", ein weißer Vin de Pays de Gascogne, hergestellt aus den Rebsorten Colombard, Ugni Blanc und Listan. Dieser Wein leichten, frisch-fruchtigen Stil hat schnell die Französischen und Nordeuropäischen Märkte erobert und wird heute auch in alle anderen Erdteile exportiert.<br /><br /><br />Aber es ist nicht "Colombelle", sondern eine große Auswahl an charaktervollen Weinen voll Tiefe, Komplexität und Ausdrucksfähigkeit von Terroir, welche das hohe Ansehen der Producteurs Plaimont unter den Kooperativen begründen.<br /><br /><br />Ich werde vom Vertriebsleiter, Philippe Anthony, und Kellermeister Laurent Paré herumgeführt. Beide sind jung, hochmotiviert, gewöhnt an den Umgang mit modernsten Technolgien in Weinberg + Keller und vertraut mit neuen Entwicklungen in aller Welt. Obwohl sie nicht aus der Gascogne stammen, glauben sie beide leidenschaftlich an das Potenzial der Region, sowie an Philosophie + Qualitätsmanagement der Genossenschaft.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizha9Jp9WwfR7WER44PuiPC0BFKxr7_hIdbgE-mxmf0CqGq7h4PC7qjHLCszU5vlsEBZkPN-sgkcMIqxEyqmNFB7ShpncSULr0lKe-bxGC2CBvH8BKaftIaBbqsOAlEbG-cULhmi5YH61b/s1600/DSC00008.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499465319627811506" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizha9Jp9WwfR7WER44PuiPC0BFKxr7_hIdbgE-mxmf0CqGq7h4PC7qjHLCszU5vlsEBZkPN-sgkcMIqxEyqmNFB7ShpncSULr0lKe-bxGC2CBvH8BKaftIaBbqsOAlEbG-cULhmi5YH61b/s200/DSC00008.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizha9Jp9WwfR7WER44PuiPC0BFKxr7_hIdbgE-mxmf0CqGq7h4PC7qjHLCszU5vlsEBZkPN-sgkcMIqxEyqmNFB7ShpncSULr0lKe-bxGC2CBvH8BKaftIaBbqsOAlEbG-cULhmi5YH61b/s1600/DSC00008.JPG"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizha9Jp9WwfR7WER44PuiPC0BFKxr7_hIdbgE-mxmf0CqGq7h4PC7qjHLCszU5vlsEBZkPN-sgkcMIqxEyqmNFB7ShpncSULr0lKe-bxGC2CBvH8BKaftIaBbqsOAlEbG-cULhmi5YH61b/s1600/DSC00008.JPG"></a><br /><br />In den Weinbergen beinhaltet das Qualitätsmanagement 'l'agriculture raisonnée' (eine umweltfreundliche Landwirtschaft, welche man als 'so wenig Intervention wie möglich, so viel wie nötig' zusammenfassen kann), Laubpflege im Sommer je nach erwarteten Wetterbedingungen, grüne Lese, strenge auf die einzelne Parzelle abgestimmte Ertragsbeschränkungen, sorgfältige Überwachung der verschiedenen Reifestadien in den Trauben + obligatorische Handlese für alle Trauben der Appellationen Madiran, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh und Saint-Mont zum vom Kellermeister als ideal befundenen Zeitpunkt.<br />Entlang des Produktionsprozesses wird die Rückverfolgbareit der Trauben gewährleistet, so dass jede Flasche der entsprechenden Rebfläche zugeordnet werden kann. Im Keller beinhaltet das Qualitätsmanagement die Bewegung der Weine per Schwerkraft, thermo-regulierte Gärung in Edelstahltanks (mit Ausnahme eines Teils der Premium-Weißweine, welche in 225-l Barriques vergoren werden, gefolgt von einem mehrmonatigen Ausbau auf der Hefe, deren reduktive Eigenschaften vorab durch einmonatiges regelmäßiges Aufrühren - getrennt vom Wein), Ausbau der meisten Rotweine und einiger Weißweine im Holzfass (mit einer Reifezeit zwischen 6 und 14 Monaten in Barriques, welche 3 Jahre lang benutzt und je zu einem Drittel pro Jahr ersetzt werden), Crossflow Filtration sowie eigene moderne Abfüll- und Laboreinrichtungen.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499465518061541234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAJqkhPE_X3FtCTfurjkpLW_drQUmi8vMzOZ3C6TMRUnqqonWE1FnyckuPk3D8W145PDlaYZFwt4wEyV6c7MvuEX4NwZfLvkjXslDYQbv3QCFChz6Acjirb9Hjcw8Pmu9Pq15vbsyP_jA/s200/DSC00009.JPG" border="0" /><br />Trotz der Produktion von mehreren Millionen Flaschen pro Jahr schafft es das Team, jede einzelne Stilrichtung und Qualität mit großer Hingabe und Liebe zum Detail zu behandeln. Dies betrifft auch das Marketing, welchem es gelingt, individuelle Markenbilder zu erschaffen, von denen jedes eine andere, glaubwürdige Geschichte erzählt; und welches es clever versteht, sich bei kulturellen Anlässen der Region, wie beispielsweise dem Jazzfestival von Marciac (auf dem Jahr für Jahr bekannte Jazzgrößen wie Lionel Hampton oder Dee Dee Bridewater auftreten) in baskenländische Szene zu setzen. Es betrifft auch den Empfang von Besuchern, der nicht nur ausgesprochen gastfreundlich ist, sondern auch flexibel und anpassbar an die verschiedensten Bedürfnisse und Erwartungen der Gäste: von einem sehr freundlichen und effektiven Besucherzentrum (gleichermaßen geeignet für einzelne Weinliebhaber und große Touristengruppen), bis hin zu maßgeschneiderten Programmen für Geschäftskunden und die Ausrichtung von Veranstaltungen wie Hochzeiten.<br /><br /><br />So beeinflussen viele Elemente den Erfolg der Producteurs Plaimont. Mir erscheinen sie alle Teil eines großen, übergeordneten Faktors zu sein: der erfolgreichen Teamarbeit. Diese basiert auf einer gemeinsamen Vision, welche jedes Mitglied ermutigt, seine Stärken und Ideen einzubringen, und doch gleichzeitig auf den Traditionen des gaskonischen Erbes beruht. In anderen Worten, schaffen es die Producteurs Plaimont, Authentizität und Moderne zu verbinden, und sprechen damit die Wünsche vieler verschiedener Zielgruppen an.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fp_H-iJOCdlqPNn4XxdWPXTf6z5MkwS7oDA7r211CnPpnsp-VUO0qT-wEiZeOgiXcBuv2GnKtCRISBb4U27Cjo47nvTDxXdGEp360bRFu7BDwkx8hAa_D0mmx95lnwK5xd1g6-ETrHg9/s1600/DSC00012.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499465943431689970" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fp_H-iJOCdlqPNn4XxdWPXTf6z5MkwS7oDA7r211CnPpnsp-VUO0qT-wEiZeOgiXcBuv2GnKtCRISBb4U27Cjo47nvTDxXdGEp360bRFu7BDwkx8hAa_D0mmx95lnwK5xd1g6-ETrHg9/s200/DSC00012.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Nach solch einer Lobeshymne, nun aber nochmal zu den Qualitätsweinen:<br /><br />Madiran AOC ist bekannt für seine gerbstoffreichen Weine, in deren Verschnitt die Rebsorte Tannat dominiert (Struktur und Rückgrat gibt), ergänzt um Pinenc (eine antike und quasi wieder entdeckte Rebsorte, die fruchtige und blumige Aromen beiträgt) und Cabernet Sauvignon. Per Gesetz müssen Madiran AOC Weine mindestens 1 Jaht reifen, bevor sie in den Verkauf gebracht werden dürfen, die meisten Weine brauchen aber noch sehr viel länger, bevor sie Trinkreife erreichen. Neben diesem traditionellen Stil stellen die Producteurs Plaimont auch "Maestria" her, einen modernen Wein, der Dank sehr reifen Leseguts und Mikro-Oxygenation jung getrunken werden kann.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh bedeutet auf Gasconisch 'in Reihen gepflanzte Rebstöcke im alten Land'. Die Appellation bringt spritzige, charaktervolle Weißweine hervor, aus den Rebsorten<br />Petit Courbu (antike Rebsorte mit reifen Fruchtaromen und viel Körper)<br />Arrufiac (in den 1980ern von André Dubosc wieder entdeckt, geschätzt für Weine mit blumigen Noten und Eleganz)<br />Petit Manseng (bringt Top-Qualitätsweine hervor, Rebsorte liefert geringe Erträge und ist besonders geeignet für die Herstellung von Dessertweinen mit der "Passérillage-Methode", bei der die Trauben an den Rebstöcken zu Rosinen trocken) und<br />Gros Manseng (Baskische Rebsorte, welche sich zur Herstellung der trockeneren Stile eignet und knackige Säure sowie Zitrusnoten zum Verschnitt beisteuert.<br />Alle Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Trauben werden per Hand und in mehreren Lesegängen geerntet. Der letzte Lesegang ist für die Herstellung von "Saint-Sylvestre", beginnt jeweils kurz vor Mitternacht der Silvesternacht und dauert bis in die frühen Stunden des Neujahrstages. Die Aromen dieser Beeren, gepflückt in einer solch einzigartigen, festlichen Atmosphäre, sind besonders konzentriert und reichhaltig.<br /><br /><br />Côtes de Saint-Mont ist eine VDQS Appellation, welche den AC Status anstrebt und Rot-, Weiß- und Roséweine hervorbringt. Die Rotweine werden aus mindestens 60% Tannat sowie Pinenc, Cabernet Franc und Cabernet Sauvignon hergestellt, während die Rosés durch das Saignée-Verfahren aus Tannat und den beiden Cabernetsorten gewonnen werden. Die Weißeine stammen aus der Vinifikation von Arrufiac, Petit Courbu und Gros Manseng.<br />Unter verschiedenen Marken, die alle aus diesen traditionellen Rebsorten hergestellt werden, bilden "Les Vignes Retrouvés" (die wieder-entdeckten Rebstöcke) und "Le Faite" die Pemiumlinien. Die Trauben hierfür stammen teilweise von Rebstöcken, welche vor Zeiten der Reblaus gepflanzt wurden, auf Böden, die sich dem Befall durch die Plage erfolgreich widersetzten. "Le Faite" trägt einen auffälligen, gesiegelten Holzanhänger als Etikett und wird von einer jährlich wechselnden Jury aus preisgekrönten Sommeliers und Gastronomen verschnitten. Lediglich 6.000 Flaschen Weißwein und 4.000 Flaschen Rotwein entstehen vom "Le Faite" je Jahrgang.<br /><br /><p>In der Appellation Saint-Mont sind desweiteren 4 Châteaux und 1 Domaine im Besitz der Genossenschaft und werden separat vinifiziert: Château Sabazan, von dem jährlich nur ca. 45.000 Flaschen Rotwein produziert werden, weil die Erträge im Weinberg stark limitiert sind, um eine hohe Aromenkonzentration in den Trauben zu erreichen; Château Saint-Go mit einer Produktion von ca. 130.000 Flaschen Rotwein und 28.000 Flaschen Weißwein, Château de la Roque; Château du Bascou, auf dem Gäste auch willkommen sind zu übernachten, sowie le Monastère de Saint-Mont, der ursprüngliche Sitz der Benediktinermönche. </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXTiuj_Tm-92QAYoApd7J86_pLOKqVBbqALQfAzQ0BOnZGBb1C9zS7aFouUemtJLAXcieks9AuF7F0Rg7U03yrTWn2sQuTrU5lRku46XyLzgfKD7NIpWbVJsOfbUb9spLV2eXNbPKXy4e/s1600/DSC00037.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499467224401610594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXTiuj_Tm-92QAYoApd7J86_pLOKqVBbqALQfAzQ0BOnZGBb1C9zS7aFouUemtJLAXcieks9AuF7F0Rg7U03yrTWn2sQuTrU5lRku46XyLzgfKD7NIpWbVJsOfbUb9spLV2eXNbPKXy4e/s200/DSC00037.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p><br /></p><div><br /></div><p>In Deutschland sind die Weine der Producteurs Plaimont in Jacques' Weindepots zu finden.</p><div><br /></div><p>Weitere Information gibt es unter <a href="http://www.plaimont.com/">http://www.plaimont.com/</a>.</p>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-81040974088438517932010-07-24T13:17:00.000-07:002010-07-24T15:41:17.313-07:00Emerging Wine Countries: Brazil, China, India & RussiaThis event at the MW Symposium was moderated by Tim Atkin MW and featured the following presentations:<br /><br /><div><div>Judy Leissner, president of Grace Vineyards, on China as wine producer and international marketplace: </div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivyKL0CsZSaXdwKFPNUqCwuwUgv1VpUoHu9gGmrVfsJIYyNoTftxs49XoTQMdyjX2IblT4-VhV8igftpCQcv1AgO8Hxg4L4YJVBQafnu2BIczXGUJRz_rrljVo18h1EYetTyKnvNSZ941l/s1600/4748756259_db6642d2de.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497601919235134546" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 277px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivyKL0CsZSaXdwKFPNUqCwuwUgv1VpUoHu9gGmrVfsJIYyNoTftxs49XoTQMdyjX2IblT4-VhV8igftpCQcv1AgO8Hxg4L4YJVBQafnu2BIczXGUJRz_rrljVo18h1EYetTyKnvNSZ941l/s400/4748756259_db6642d2de.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><div>China as emerging wine-producing country:<br />The 3 largest wineries in China, Changyu, Dynasty and Great Wall, are all state-owned. For good reasons, as there are plenty of government departments to deal with on a daily basis, very challenging for private estates! You cannot be small as a private winery in China, as you would pay low taxes which equals no voice and no rights. You must be strong and rich to get around in business!<br />China's one-child-policy seems to have a severe impact on the employees attitude towards work nowadays: After having been raised by their parents and two sets of grandparents (= 6 adults spoiling the one child), employees tend to quit very easily if being criticized.<br /><br />Plantings seem to be 85-90% black grape varities (with Cabernet Sauvignon dominating) and 10-15% white grape varieties (especially Chardonnay). However, there are no reliable sources yet for statistics of any kind. </div><br /><div><div><div><div><div><br />China as emerging market:<br />China's 1,3 billion citizens are composed of 55 ethnic groups. So there is nothing like "the typical Chinese" wine consumer. For the sake of simplification, the typical Chinese wine consumer is 40-60 yrs. old, male, drinking a lot without particularly liking it, mostly at occasions involving entertainment of and/or showing off to clients at dinner parties. He is not well educated on wine production, and that's why doubtful messages like "We only use barrels that are more than 100 yrs. old" are perceived as sign of quality by him.<br />High Volume / turnover is not made in 5 star hotels, but in the local restaurants. These, however, charge for listing any wine. And the less known a winery / brand is, the more expensive it is to get it listed.<br /><br />White wine is less popular, but for that very reason less likely to be faked, thus its authenticity more trusted.<br /><br /><br />Eleonora Scholes, journalist and consultant on Russia: <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqlTQZNfjE2xG5Em76xcP3MAcEY06yMcnLc6km98YDS_aqsJhQQrkRlkbH0uXsvfpikYoGQZm_i2pxKUTmaI54xmXgzPermnTEDAPlnF2XDTWwIanUq5vN1970nMUlXxQuBpxsukvKYPB/s1600/4748779997_02bb496920_s.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497605940958480498" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqlTQZNfjE2xG5Em76xcP3MAcEY06yMcnLc6km98YDS_aqsJhQQrkRlkbH0uXsvfpikYoGQZm_i2pxKUTmaI54xmXgzPermnTEDAPlnF2XDTWwIanUq5vN1970nMUlXxQuBpxsukvKYPB/s200/4748779997_02bb496920_s.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Russia as emerging wine producer:<br />The Krasnodar region near the Blac Sea is currently the center of quality wine production, but another region, Rostov, is evolving and showing great potential as well.<br /><br />Russia as emerging market:<br />Some 1000 yrs. ago, when chosing their religion, Russian rulers made sure to select one which allows to drink (even a lot).<br />Russians tend to be big spenders and do not bother to save money. They are unpredictable and opinionated in their wine consumption patterns, but highly cultivated and educated.<br />Red wine is preferred, if white wine is drunk, it is very likely to be sparkling.<br />Foreign wine has a superior image to the ones produced locally, and European wines are associated with a high cultural value. Heritage is key to market super premium wines, so Italy, France, Germany, Spain (and increasingly Chile!) are leading the list of suppliers.<br />However, due to Gorbatchov's anti-alcohol campaign in the 1990s, wine lost a lot of volume though, whilst beer won.<br /><br /><br />Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Wine Development Director of Coe Vintners, on Brazil:<br />Brazil as emerging producer:<br />Currently, 88,000 ha are under vines, mostly non-vitis vinifera, however. There are currently 310 wineries. The most exciting new regions are the Santa Catarina Plateau and Campanha (said to be the new California), joining the more established Serra Gaúcha.<br />Only a very small percentage of the production (worth 5.5 $) is exported.<br /><br />Please see also my recent blog entry on wines from Brazil (covering the Vinopolis tasting in May). </div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497603459117113554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_sdo9O4NHrOzchLzLNvtoeW8I80TFZz7TIfFYqov-1aWacHThLO0kS9yYgxAYF8lujfQvY_H1Bohs7raPVC5E-9ALt-7Zw12VBnGAxO97vCjdN3XpXMDIR_Bw6pjDstlmh-p34ADdnBJY/s400/4748780727_fdeb58007b_s.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div>Brazil as emerging market:<br />Dynamic migration of classes, as middle class increases drastically, so does the purchasing power. In 2010, Brazil's economy grew by 9% and there is no national debt at all (!!!!!!!!!).<br />Of the 319 million litres total consumption, 31 million litres come from domestic vitis vinifera production, 59 million litres are imported (mainly from Chile, Argentina, Italy, Portugal and France), and the rest (= the vast majority of volume) comed from domestic non-vinifera wines.<br />Although both consumers and on-trade locations in the major cities are becoming more and more sophisticated, most potential or occasional wine drinkers still lack a lot of wine knowledge.<br />Red wines are preferred, as accompaniment to meat dishes loved more than any other food. White wines are under-represented though and pose an opportunity.<br />Wine Spectator is the most influential critic regognized by the public.<br /><br /><br />Magandeep Singh, Indian sommelier, wine writer and TV personality, on India: <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vsB8hjmqOQExTdWyxCuA2LfrL8ZMzfm4twKvTEhiivvaVwgR_x-bRYiOStjkVnYNPl_q2iY297YUxeG2KCoKg_mtDCNWUdYc6kPDzTsvdTk0yoJ8Cv49AzIR2sNQpl5EopczJXVdcAub/s1600/4748763545_58c5cfddd9_s.jpg"></a><br />India as emerging producer:<br />Good potential. But subsidies that are given to wineries as support of agricultural companies are often taken without doing anything with it, without even producing wine at all. Money could be so much better used in other ways!<br /><br />You may also want to read my recent blog entry on wines from India (covering a tasting at LIWF).<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-d6SnEdtSx_vmQSLt7SYOcI6PPDMScNTm_-kZRR2oEIASe8CdRez9qo71f0Dy5DuA6cYmx5rcQU0wHZ9z3E3YMOgnflWDy1X3wChgxbphVX6Ybs87q83h8acKgnWTVYCNX3rVaVYb8UwG/s1600/4748782745_a46ecc9e13.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5497605627099179938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 259px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-d6SnEdtSx_vmQSLt7SYOcI6PPDMScNTm_-kZRR2oEIASe8CdRez9qo71f0Dy5DuA6cYmx5rcQU0wHZ9z3E3YMOgnflWDy1X3wChgxbphVX6Ybs87q83h8acKgnWTVYCNX3rVaVYb8UwG/s400/4748782745_a46ecc9e13.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />India as emerging market:<br />India is very diverse and full of myths.<br />With an average income of 200 EUR per month, purchasing power in India does not seem to be very promising for foreign wineries. Adults keep living with their parents (not only because of family ties / attachment to their Mom, but also for very rational, financial reasons).<br />There is a ban on advertisements for alcohol and an extremely complex tax structure for wine imports + trade across the states!!! Bad infrastructure, underdeveloped logistic options and inadequate storage facilities come on top of that.<br />Anyone not fearing the many risks may find his way to the market, which develops and grows quickly.<br />Indians are more interested in drinking wine on its own, not so much in pairing it with food, as occasions when wine is drunk are rather not along with meals.<br />Cricket and Bollywood are desirable to connect your brand with and promising Marketing approaches.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>Pictures courtesy of <a href="http://www.mwsymposium.com/">http://www.mwsymposium.com/</a></div></div></div></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-89932952385370196802010-07-15T13:54:00.000-07:002010-07-17T15:02:19.039-07:00More Impressions from MW Symposium, 24th - 27th June in Bordeaux<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLoaO6FzLKpZCaopkvDpXCBqlrR_-wO5_9OGjXkXt7W0FydjTN6_0OeNwhH88B1HKvc91Ho6Uxv1iDCs_r3KRxlB3eUk7uG5KFty-cXWDF0GTg2h5EgD4oXZNGropCY8ms53XpqpTvnU_N/s1600/4748741717_4fc3c091fe.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494259944878170194" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 130px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLoaO6FzLKpZCaopkvDpXCBqlrR_-wO5_9OGjXkXt7W0FydjTN6_0OeNwhH88B1HKvc91Ho6Uxv1iDCs_r3KRxlB3eUk7uG5KFty-cXWDF0GTg2h5EgD4oXZNGropCY8ms53XpqpTvnU_N/s200/4748741717_4fc3c091fe.jpg" border="0" /></a><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494242248461770066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 111px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4xDw3lQdYXNTkyC08FRwZx9gcvvkmJyuqdtA37kMkEQS9_NcNGb5hIYCoECJtswy3jdoHhyphenhyphenNJ0Eh537BqST9GYpEVvAHhlODS6J6ywbn5WZuVvFurnnyxiBmSVGCmpazHUs60Y1pMdY51/s400/Logo.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><br />Pictures are courtesy of <a href="http://www.mwsymposium.com/">http://www.mwsymposium.com/</a>, am still trying to lure mine out of phone... oh, technology loves me ;-)<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrRvlo00dNRCdUByNbIuDcbMlAdWvrlJib9nq_xHArRD3ma3-_25WG8PMyszn7HA261M4CjZuSDyVHqgQ_8d-lDaBdxQsbzrvGEmP1DKy1ROO5vF20z9SKpZL2TnVy8IZPZiMJiOq6tRY/s1600/4747982871_e47f2478d3_m.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494240892589385058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrRvlo00dNRCdUByNbIuDcbMlAdWvrlJib9nq_xHArRD3ma3-_25WG8PMyszn7HA261M4CjZuSDyVHqgQ_8d-lDaBdxQsbzrvGEmP1DKy1ROO5vF20z9SKpZL2TnVy8IZPZiMJiOq6tRY/s200/4747982871_e47f2478d3_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494252002167951362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 222px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHwGru7GUs_rrx2wFM6dn4p2X-2bw1gWeX3jOGoWsGMgxApLyOH2aOk81Q2spEEkKyIPUblzxBh0qlxsQ0YZGo79b6FFG2CMDJAeaj_ZyWGzvV1mr1e3ujKy3_kA5kMapwboDY_3zn_IEs/s320/Bollinger+reception+1.jpg" border="0" />Charming hostesses and co-chairmen of Forging Links, Fiona Morrison MW and Jacques Lurton, welcoming the delegates.<br /><br /><br /><br />"Work" starts on 25th (remember, I am still in London that time, grrmpf - videos of all panel discussions and tastings will be available soon though at <a href="http://www.mwsymposium.com/">http://www.mwsymposium.com/</a>)<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWZvs8wJIfDs9mR6oHz07ESVE4I4AjqUcN6K-hmpHpG_YAjdrNH9erXE7d0ue2tUtzKtED6jlWVFJ1KMVpZ5QLhYvy1gH0mZ-35svN8d8eWHCdXnb1m1lYuRukl24aHIdmMD5xwQ3eiB0/s1600/4749561830_c3f1088b2c.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494980333321524194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWZvs8wJIfDs9mR6oHz07ESVE4I4AjqUcN6K-hmpHpG_YAjdrNH9erXE7d0ue2tUtzKtED6jlWVFJ1KMVpZ5QLhYvy1gH0mZ-35svN8d8eWHCdXnb1m1lYuRukl24aHIdmMD5xwQ3eiB0/s200/4749561830_c3f1088b2c.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494243917847678370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_SfFU4SiG1LpdYPUq7slbzxWPV8hnFMTJ3Rcr3i89rQfb3cNf_gEBMo1J_m9yuoYxqMLF7TkRXu4uXKwRhwbkqMUzw5t6lOhKjeD1jWCA08_YboE2xmNX_lG6v0OGa_0U03Nc7WwbrMf/s400/4748743179_b34ba50a5e_s.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494241723031004066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0HxbrSFRc6J-Qf0x6BFIkdDR5kmndZtvQ6YdUeouhOW8-GeE2U2DIIjfzoCIlSxYmHoB9vxLsXkJtbfzHUmMuYL2JF8C4c4NAiLcyOSbvMJ8iYJqxinPLwNvWmsHON8aCRXXGgHBslUd/s400/4748109021_853512187c_s.jpg" border="0" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZMFPQs-dmhAVv3sBL1EHJYZ8UntHI7fvYmxieJZD8Sjk8ppCcFYDCg-euKoUCwR0Yx-NzBLHxuLcaw76r9UifP7HpP700gufXlwJRvsrrABUhrNr8GZLX_k9jQ8puq0RzJgozz1HX-79p/s1600/4748428867_82c5f00ce8.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494251241528438786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZMFPQs-dmhAVv3sBL1EHJYZ8UntHI7fvYmxieJZD8Sjk8ppCcFYDCg-euKoUCwR0Yx-NzBLHxuLcaw76r9UifP7HpP700gufXlwJRvsrrABUhrNr8GZLX_k9jQ8puq0RzJgozz1HX-79p/s200/4748428867_82c5f00ce8.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Panel Discussion: Passing the torch from one generation to another (moderated by Fiona Morrison MW, speakers: Jean-Claude & Olivier Berrouet, Jean Bernard & Jean-Philippe Delmas, Miguel & Mireia Torres)<br /><br /><br /><br />Dinner with Bordeaux producers on the right bank of the Garonne (got there, just in time)<br /><div></div><div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbo6EhSmwqRl-qZH3gUoTilmJt29e4mL0doBQfsK0ecdOiEbMiRevL_h_H80xfUHYS6FnJd0S3yXGlRWE_xSbbLDbvJKnBcYwiDR4O3vU-CMFWsvb9AkaP9kLk_I3dmhZKULJIQpHCVkK/s1600/4749363668_e6db8bb484_s.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494255941462659298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbo6EhSmwqRl-qZH3gUoTilmJt29e4mL0doBQfsK0ecdOiEbMiRevL_h_H80xfUHYS6FnJd0S3yXGlRWE_xSbbLDbvJKnBcYwiDR4O3vU-CMFWsvb9AkaP9kLk_I3dmhZKULJIQpHCVkK/s400/4749363668_e6db8bb484_s.jpg" border="0" /></a><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494252574021329026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 222px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9gF4-VqOrmjYUTYG9-CjdwS14d7zg6nPMOXmnq7i8PRg-_P3SBOqjjQ3UO217dNOeHDMurmP1MpKSWqwBtthPOulHcmt0Iu7i55sNZMllGP9NrFgB1OR3xFnIz_A4gOt4I6gyzrvy_RKP/s320/4751565244_f306be7d0a.jpg" border="0" /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6uP3uFPlbUUE3xy1KkPhVp1SJHtK9ccfmr-FxDXhbYLI5rPAYVvm6Yk_JWtpJE0JKwNsOCb3guQ87U2gACmyQQYx1Ua6FfVU8XPDlhgTo_ivh8t7ebPw6nm0ins2o5NpEk_YVlJHRrasW/s1600/4748050733_845e38fc0b.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494241021310644946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6uP3uFPlbUUE3xy1KkPhVp1SJHtK9ccfmr-FxDXhbYLI5rPAYVvm6Yk_JWtpJE0JKwNsOCb3guQ87U2gACmyQQYx1Ua6FfVU8XPDlhgTo_ivh8t7ebPw6nm0ins2o5NpEk_YVlJHRrasW/s200/4748050733_845e38fc0b.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcYOGQe7_-4gAVVKjmIdLexCnVdMnBo2TsHyGTUZ6RrTUCXT0AVpUVUUf3E3dD5QAKRZ6UTxfaJHYhYOlK4elzs7LhQlOFe-J2rlJhj53IHN4aiAdQoVLvyV2mcD_vgg6Ng5DoeQf_lsyX/s1600/Pepi+Schuller,+Agnes+and+myself.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494249235882312130" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 277px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcYOGQe7_-4gAVVKjmIdLexCnVdMnBo2TsHyGTUZ6RrTUCXT0AVpUVUUf3E3dD5QAKRZ6UTxfaJHYhYOlK4elzs7LhQlOFe-J2rlJhj53IHN4aiAdQoVLvyV2mcD_vgg6Ng5DoeQf_lsyX/s400/Pepi+Schuller,+Agnes+and+myself.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Pepi Schuller MW, Agnes Herczeg and Isabel Kottmann<br /><br /><br /><br />26th June: Panel Discussion - Emerging Wine Countries: Brazil, China, India & Russia (moderated by Tim Atkin MW, speakers: Judy Leissner, Eleonora Scholes, Magandeep Singh, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW) - separate blog on this one will follow shortly<br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssSs4MZXg8SdTvv_9Ww5fiyP3yIBbZCLVCH_YAR_BAzPds_77Ip8PSShGWlI9Mv64BUepr6cVD6Q2xn_pX052zbObWG5DkD54x22dKWIKapOeZZA_iz5nIkP8zEHRNt7_volQyVM002uI/s1600/4749413370_74751a231d.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494257142797313746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 130px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssSs4MZXg8SdTvv_9Ww5fiyP3yIBbZCLVCH_YAR_BAzPds_77Ip8PSShGWlI9Mv64BUepr6cVD6Q2xn_pX052zbObWG5DkD54x22dKWIKapOeZZA_iz5nIkP8zEHRNt7_volQyVM002uI/s200/4749413370_74751a231d.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494257714418282242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRyh9M8VLatG2xeKPh4i-3boeM6pXJlEc2FeJLQ78pHbkO0OA_c2sVtkcrCYYTzMXxXTrrvmGTYNWLUDXn3zXy4Jit-pBOLJ9_OxEt76y3CtlpWyt1zxLEA89chENlx_7S5AL_860REd8t/s400/4749409286_9927d704d6_s.jpg" border="0" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvpcmhqZJfFuj-FJYioijkuSwZ-XiY1D9JIeKoDXsoUjMqpaQ_UhMLrcUWY_J0BY-IkKKCyQRiKbKDswSVkw5MJwEw24-P61mGizZgj94MQ-QPWZuIQKkbpvKiTi2Jyb9vDU1En51NMY0u/s1600/4748763545_58c5cfddd9_s.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494258250325515106" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvpcmhqZJfFuj-FJYioijkuSwZ-XiY1D9JIeKoDXsoUjMqpaQ_UhMLrcUWY_J0BY-IkKKCyQRiKbKDswSVkw5MJwEw24-P61mGizZgj94MQ-QPWZuIQKkbpvKiTi2Jyb9vDU1En51NMY0u/s400/4748763545_58c5cfddd9_s.jpg" border="0" /></a><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494258056531148146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw6eUbuJViEVTieSP5iuebI8QGc6dAziczu5CqfAeLDhrn8KZVVLExbSBEeddaYD16GZssLoHbtpBezo8TWK3NQabqfNcwAqynvU1bVnNFfdFtVh5OVNCKsCfcfGkm9Se_tbsXw9TiMXS7/s320/4748780727_fdeb58007b_s.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>Tasting and Panel Discussion: The role of Masters of Wine in the industry (moderated by Joshua Greene, speakers: Justin Howard-Sneyd MW, Olivier Humbrecht MW, Alastair Maling MW, Jancis Robinson MW)</div><div></div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494242698652679442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZQvTNCDLUNezg2yXXGFUtQ28V6ObAiVonw5r0cefmOW4k3dA5_kvwsCOorHubr_0uI3CM-t2K9AoHBYUgEeQaYY6Zom1Zfd7DEyO-FR1bouPNse9dwg84C0_e3a2kAngLwGupuaccFJy/s200/4748816759_0b78d2e142.jpg" border="0" /></div><div></div><div></div><div>Gala Dinner at Château Pontet-Canet</div><div></div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSKVMnlOyj7kVTVs6jIHURCvFLodRQ_NC_gEDhNSBtTQKrB5vhn47royM7IHpHODVR9WsErjudy0_X0g82PanO-jkDFEp3NSfoSZ3m-mZ24CcQemn87dV65WhCVzqHbmF9iqf0JxV8I_j/s1600/4749727578_9930f4a2e0.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494980897364388882" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 277px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSKVMnlOyj7kVTVs6jIHURCvFLodRQ_NC_gEDhNSBtTQKrB5vhn47royM7IHpHODVR9WsErjudy0_X0g82PanO-jkDFEp3NSfoSZ3m-mZ24CcQemn87dV65WhCVzqHbmF9iqf0JxV8I_j/s400/4749727578_9930f4a2e0.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494982436500153618" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz64TXZo_hTXkyvo37rIJmFoEbEbhbfa6-t3-KO00CJB3fb4Z09PxNb1J29nr6vdOZvKCzQmRQNkpMRyM4w4mQh_6t7XsxWxd8Fm70hCMx9l3yUMnRYmMKu_IVeE2S_CO0F_5ruqFnjAaM/s200/4751640446_6fd6afec79_s.jpg" border="0" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExPBbta7PqINof8YRFbykdF2HnrBgiMsRC_2CNjKMOmB0OnZpj-k7lvF0SgF_f6_OKIBZkiEUwwUIqHtsaqfSTgxf2DGEF_aD9qGE2dle-kc4giyQwLcXdjYDy4oRUy00REhwxntzK1K9/s1600/4749722914_194f80623c.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494981949759883154" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExPBbta7PqINof8YRFbykdF2HnrBgiMsRC_2CNjKMOmB0OnZpj-k7lvF0SgF_f6_OKIBZkiEUwwUIqHtsaqfSTgxf2DGEF_aD9qGE2dle-kc4giyQwLcXdjYDy4oRUy00REhwxntzK1K9/s200/4749722914_194f80623c.jpg" border="0" /></a><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494982696578337202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 222px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaE859TYmyr0L5D82fvDNVd36_lOFaXWFjcAZ1y0CRUTmupJuDM4oVvb_5XrxkYPUWYXFBJnqTCRcN5Redn29ZI7RVGabuu6FI8U0zhLLPpQR6oAGxEzGs1WbdNOHbo18n0taG_8sZJ5Py/s320/4748638016_38ee38e180.jpg" border="0" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mIQGghAsfsycX3CAVpOwJoj5tGy2-Tsh552Hz9HxoGIUeD8guttlQJd65K_Hq9BIgUvIAxRcRPJ30ZTPGplJw_-qehBMAH1s9JPbGFp78HjcyM4mnDWDswrWwH3_8r4N-0px8ZZeI_S5/s1600/4751052581_34826bf730.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494982200641366722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 277px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mIQGghAsfsycX3CAVpOwJoj5tGy2-Tsh552Hz9HxoGIUeD8guttlQJd65K_Hq9BIgUvIAxRcRPJ30ZTPGplJw_-qehBMAH1s9JPbGFp78HjcyM4mnDWDswrWwH3_8r4N-0px8ZZeI_S5/s400/4751052581_34826bf730.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqzxz83xoP7UzfvYk8Hwol0HRq6DKIA_ZTNqruHWvDKBy-azjUhE1UULyBtGzHYicaJC7mzvlj8sRtpvXJFLwLvA3LHTZFfj6z_e_-XKfBjdN-wfJAZzMAdLOFblGCHwq1FwDDDX9n6xQ/s1600/4751699484_7ff4c5e47c.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494984764578580242" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 222px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqzxz83xoP7UzfvYk8Hwol0HRq6DKIA_ZTNqruHWvDKBy-azjUhE1UULyBtGzHYicaJC7mzvlj8sRtpvXJFLwLvA3LHTZFfj6z_e_-XKfBjdN-wfJAZzMAdLOFblGCHwq1FwDDDX9n6xQ/s320/4751699484_7ff4c5e47c.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494981437523045858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 222px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Sm2hzkKaLR44INie6MMYgPmN8mH04jq77zPspueNuxgeICoiCxoGPCvbHhYOO2uL7Y2NenFf_ButJ5ps0S6c2pz2vw5mWA8Gac4xsDviz_xCcFVDEx3kJR-zvnAiw9EobeGJl0sNQA2g/s320/4751011131_c8f17833d0.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssSs4MZXg8SdTvv_9Ww5fiyP3yIBbZCLVCH_YAR_BAzPds_77Ip8PSShGWlI9Mv64BUepr6cVD6Q2xn_pX052zbObWG5DkD54x22dKWIKapOeZZA_iz5nIkP8zEHRNt7_volQyVM002uI/s1600/4749413370_74751a231d.jpg"></a></div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-23806473209194910092010-07-12T12:33:00.000-07:002010-07-12T13:16:14.502-07:00Verkostung Weinwirtschaft Leistungstest Internationale Genossenschaften<div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsA_jaGuaSf_CkVWbHMzyiUnncf-H2mTlQIrp253UiShPaZB6iIhdQdI1GpRq_eZ9HHc6dnZiyqe8iqnWNTsniJAcX9qFutlSredrHSEqgKAHZrIc0iZSgbReZlUkcSZCdnMmW4uDcOv5/s1600/DSC00005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493114361756653682" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 256px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsA_jaGuaSf_CkVWbHMzyiUnncf-H2mTlQIrp253UiShPaZB6iIhdQdI1GpRq_eZ9HHc6dnZiyqe8iqnWNTsniJAcX9qFutlSredrHSEqgKAHZrIc0iZSgbReZlUkcSZCdnMmW4uDcOv5/s320/DSC00005.JPG" border="0" /></a>Ende Mai hatte die Redaktion der Weinwirtschaft die jeweils 25 besten Genossenschaften aus Frankreich und Italien zu einem Leistungstest eingeladen. Die Vorauswahl wurde "auf Basis der Verkostungseindrücke der vergangenen Jahre, der Aktivität auf dem deutschen Markt und der Bedeutung in der jeweiligen Herkunftsregion getroffen. (Weinwirtschaft)</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Jede ausgewählte Genossenschaft war aufgefordert, 6 Weine in den folgenden festgelegten Kategorien anzustellen:</div><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjziJZy9gsCAoD1BM3IwkzARy7WhwyfCRRwtht8seESXWvhtn-UiBgsqVKBXiQcxrN9j2_3OJYCKRmSS-ajBGNKveIjUUDZPINbSriXc-AffX5x39DCIUFt-A37IG2kAkc3LzCqHv-bi4F0/s1600/DSC00003.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493114844920134514" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjziJZy9gsCAoD1BM3IwkzARy7WhwyfCRRwtht8seESXWvhtn-UiBgsqVKBXiQcxrN9j2_3OJYCKRmSS-ajBGNKveIjUUDZPINbSriXc-AffX5x39DCIUFt-A37IG2kAkc3LzCqHv-bi4F0/s200/DSC00003.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>1. trockener Weißwein, 3-5 EUR ex cellars</div><br /><div>2. trockener Roséwein, 3-5 EUR ex cellars</div><br /><div>3. trockener Rotwein, 3-5 EUR ex cellars</div><br /><div>4. trockener Wein nach Wahl (Weiß-, Rosé- oder Rotwein), 5-8 EUR ex cellars</div><br /><div>5. trockener Wein nach Wahl im Top-Segment</div><br /><div>6. ein weiterer Wein nach Wahl, wobei es sich um eine regionaltypische Spezialität des Hauses handeln sollte</div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493115566624450274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 160px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4BjQbaFEIeL3f0JZWAPOH__62TvPUn-MZq5UvODD5yN_DMRo0NkVBCNFhj1r30RMEe8D4rqrFPWAiiKZ2V9XBw2V6nbbgNETMn32v6gh4WCYUKLokxfa2bbPSn02qHrrPKqYr9E4DlWRD/s200/DSC00007.JPG" border="0" /><br /><div></div><div>Wine Charms war als Jurymitglied dabei. Die Ergebnisse werden in einer der kommenden Ausgaben der Weinwirtschaft veröffentlicht. Mehr Infos unter <a href="http://www.weinwirtschaft.de/">http://www.weinwirtschaft.de/</a> </div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-54427089937755616272010-07-12T08:06:00.000-07:002010-07-12T12:33:29.040-07:00Wines from Brazil TastingBefore I add some more comments on the MW Symposium and then report on my tour du Sud-Ouest, there are two more entries to come from events actually dating back a while ago...<br /><br />On 21st May, Ibravin (the Brazilian Wine Institute) and the Embassy of Brazil in London organized a tasting at Vinopolis, which was tutored by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW.<br /><br />Brazil's history in winemaking dates back to the 19th century, when Italian immigrants settled in the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul. In the 1960s, international companies like Seagrams and Martini opened establishments in this region and started expanding vineyards towards the border with Uruguay as well as in the Sao Francisco river valley. As from the mid-80s there has been a continuous movement towards higher quality, started by small-scale grape growers and a well skilled next generation taking gradually over, followed by recent heavy investments in state-of-the-art technology. Today, Brazilian wines get more and more international recognition, and particularly Brazil's image as producer of high quality sparkling wines takes more and more shape. And yet, the country is just at the beginning and a large potential to explore: vineyards in cooler regions like Santa Catarina (and the establishment of subregions, e.g. Vale dos Vinhedos within Serra Gaúcha), experiences in combinations of grape varieties and terroir, as well as international consultants will all have a positive impact, both on quality of the wines and reputation of Brazil as country of origin. What I, personally, consider important to clarify, however, is labelling of vintages: 2 harvests are possible in tropical viticulture and common practice in Brazil. The quality of these 2 harvests usually differs though, with one being undisputedly better than the other. Yet, there is generally no hint on the label, whether the wine in the bottle is made from grapes of first or the second harvest, or possibly a blend of both (which is legal and common as well). Which harvest respectively wine would tasting notes and awards be dedicated to?<br /><br />The tasting included 11 wines, of which I want to mention the following, which I found to be really good:<br /><br />Espumante Cave Geisse Brut 2008, made from 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir in traditional method, 2 years of ageing on the lees<br /><br />Miolo Alísios do Seival Pinot Grigio - Riesling 2009 (region: Fronteira)<br /><br />Salton Desejo 2006 (Merlot, region: Serra Gaúcha)<br /><br />Pizzato DNA 99 Merlot 2005 (region: Vale dos Vinhedos)<br /><br />Miolo Lote 43 2005 (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, region: Vale dos Vinhedos)<br /><br />For further information, please visit <a href="http://www.winesfrombrazil.com/">http://www.winesfrombrazil.com/</a><br /><br /><br /><br />Bevor ich noch einige Kommentare zum MW Symposium ergänze sowie über meine Tour durch Frankreichs Südwesten berichte, gibt es noch zwei Nachträge zu Veranstaltungen, die schon etwas zurückliegen...<br /><br />Am 21. Mai fand in Londons Vinopolis eine Verkostung statt, welche durch Ibravin (das Brasilianische Weininstitut) und die Brasilianische Botschaft organisiert worden war und von Dirceu Vianna Junior MW geleitet wurde.<br /><br />Brasiliens Geschichte als Weinproduzent begann im 19. Jahrhundert, als italienische Einwanderer sich im südlichen Staat Rio Grande do Sul niederließen. In den 60er Jahren des 20. Jahrhunderts eröffneten dann internationale Firmen wie Seagrams oder Martini Niederlassungen hier und erweiterten die Rebflächen bis nahe der Grenze zu Uruguay sowie im Sao Francisco Tal. Seit Mitte der 80er Jahre gibt es kontinuierliche Bestrebungen zur Verbesserung der Qualität, initiiert von kleinen Traubenerzeugern und ihrem gut geschulten Nachwuchs, gefolgt von hohen Investitionen in moderne Kellertechnologien. Heute bekommen Brasilianische Weine immer mehr internationale Anerkennung, und besonders Brasiliens Image als Herkunftsland hochwertiger Schaumweine gewinnt immer mehr an Form. Und dennoch steht das Land erst am Anfang und hat noch ein großes Potential auszuschöpfen: die Erschließung kühlerer Regionen wie Santa Catarina (und Anerkennung von Subregionen, z.B. Vale dos Vinhedos innerhalb der Serra Gaúcha), Erfahrungswerte für Kombinationen aus Rebsorten und Terroir sowie das Hinzuziehen internationaler Berater werden sich in den nächsten Jahren sicherlich äußerst positiv auswirken, sowohl auf die Qualität der Weine als auch den Ruf Brasiliens als Herkunftsland. Was ich persönlich allerdings als wichtig erachte, ist eine klarere Etikettierung in Hinblick auf den Jahrgang. 2 Lesen je Jahrgang sind möglich im tropischen Weinbau und üblich in Brasilien. Die Qualität des Leseguts variiert jedoch, in der regel ist eine deutlich und unumstritten höher als die andere. Trotzdem gibt es keinerlei Hinweis auf dem Etikett, welcher der beiden Lesen eines Jahrgangs der Wein im Regal zuzurechnen ist (auch ein Verschnitt aus beiden Lesen ist legal und üblich). Welcher Lese bzw. welchem Wein sind Verkostungsnotizen und Auszeichnungen gewidmet?<br /><br />Verkostet wurden 11 Weine aus verschiedenen Regionen, Rebsorten und Preisklassen, die die Vielseitigkeit des Landes widerspiegeln sollten. Als besonders gut möchte ich hervorheben:<br /><br />Espumante Cave Geisse Brut 2008 (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir) nach traditioneller Methode hergestellt und mit 2-jähriger Lagerung auf der Hefe<br /><br />Miolo Alísios do Seival Pinot Grigio - Riesling 2009 (Region: Fronteira)<br /><br />Salton Desejo 2006 (Merlot, Region: Serra Gaúcha)<br /><br />Pizzato DNA 99 Merlot 2005 (Region: Vale dos Vinhedos)<br /><br />Miolo Lote 43 2005 (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, Region: Vale dos Vinhedos)<br /><br />Weitere Informationen finden Sie unter <a href="http://www.winesfrombrazil.com/">http://www.winesfrombrazil.com/</a>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-49351179766404082332010-06-27T02:33:00.000-07:002010-07-17T14:02:08.534-07:00Closing Remarks<div>Lynne Sherriff MW: Forging Links - it was all about making contacts and keeping our great community alive.<br /><br />Dr. Josef Schuller MW: It is all about people, great spirit that we felt here!!!<br />And we so much appreciate everyone's help and support to make the institute work - especially passing on their experience and advice to the 240 MW students out there at the moment.<br />And everybody helping to organize this symposium.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DCBULIpBhhaq45gTrlfQYgkOjvI5FlP2kkyuOwW2kALijHQumki26pkMyNCS2MZ1yR7VR3AhV8ZQLQQ722-VMTUNDIijNfogBQ1pUDSHcBn2qUrexo3gwql4B_CbMa1KCjV73zRkGIjG/s1600/4750958257_4546bce5c1_m.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494983205283625970" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 166px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DCBULIpBhhaq45gTrlfQYgkOjvI5FlP2kkyuOwW2kALijHQumki26pkMyNCS2MZ1yR7VR3AhV8ZQLQQ722-VMTUNDIijNfogBQ1pUDSHcBn2qUrexo3gwql4B_CbMa1KCjV73zRkGIjG/s400/4750958257_4546bce5c1_m.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Fiona Morrison MW: Beware of your students - it was my former student Jacques Lurton who suggested that we shall take care of organizing this Forging Links Symposium in Bordeaux! It was hell lot of work - but we so much enjoyed doing it!<br />Thanks to everyone for the fantastic jobs they did to making this happen.<br />(Personal introduction of the key figures).<br /><br />And thanks so much for coming, looking forward to seeing you again soon!<br /><br />More reports to follow shortly...</div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-12386899778932838102010-06-27T01:04:00.000-07:002010-07-17T14:04:44.948-07:00Modern Legends: Fame, Fortune and Lessons to be learned<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z97AdXci43_hHT0NT0NxNmyo51jDz9qtof2sBE1JCEX6LfmI6SgmGPIQeMyNZ4CpPiKrpztAR4P0mPhLK9DDQIMx7JlzlSolbMmaVj2oap2Iryz9iuCSw3vetTSiQFJWBCficu-tTGxC/s1600/4751589808_2b935365db_m.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494260578199734370" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 166px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z97AdXci43_hHT0NT0NxNmyo51jDz9qtof2sBE1JCEX6LfmI6SgmGPIQeMyNZ4CpPiKrpztAR4P0mPhLK9DDQIMx7JlzlSolbMmaVj2oap2Iryz9iuCSw3vetTSiQFJWBCficu-tTGxC/s400/4751589808_2b935365db_m.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Life from Master of Wine Symposium, Bordeaux </div><br /><div>(picture courtesy of www.mwsymposium.com)<br /><br /><br />Moderated by Jean-Michel Valette MW (JMV)<br />Speakers: Paul Draper (PD) - winemaker at Ridge Vineyards Peter Gago (PG) - chief winemaker at Penfolds<br />Alvaro Palacios (AP) - winemaker from Spain, with bodegas in Priorat, Rioja and Bierzo<br />Paul Pontallier (PP) - general manager Château Margaux<br /><br /><br />Panel went along with tasting of 4 wines (for tasting notes, better check out assessments of any MW present in the tasting ;-), I concentrated<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyx0FGp1b0NUaORolN3kQNPLZL5vcrlhnrTGJOfyQBSlyVKehw3h91yIpetng7jiIpS4JeRvsahhkczglpSUq0gi5aa8q7NtiTfqgIyEB8liDdI-WG6ia60WDApYhR0C4pUAc5I7bekf2J/s1600/4750972673_fd8709cfb6_s.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494976275934981922" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyx0FGp1b0NUaORolN3kQNPLZL5vcrlhnrTGJOfyQBSlyVKehw3h91yIpetng7jiIpS4JeRvsahhkczglpSUq0gi5aa8q7NtiTfqgIyEB8liDdI-WG6ia60WDApYhR0C4pUAc5I7bekf2J/s320/4750972673_fd8709cfb6_s.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />1. 1995 Ridge Monte Bello, Ridge Vineyards, California, USA<br /><br />Winery is determined to improve quality constantly (you can always do better). Climate allows to try to make the best vintage ever every single year. The 1995 vintage is great to drink now, but it one aim for the subsequent vintages was to get the tannins soften and get in balance with the fruit at an earlier stage.<br /><br /><br />2. 2006 La Faraona, Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo, Spain<br /><br />Estate is AP's second "baby" (after Priorat), this wine makes him happy.<br /><br /><br /><br />3. 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet, Penfolds, Barossa Valley, Australia<br /><br />Expect the unexpected - not a Shiraz, but a Cabernet. Not a blend, but single vineyard, vines planted in the 1880ies, partly trellised on single-wire, low yielding. Barrel-fermented, no post-ferment maturation at all.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizZQ5akg-KWSqIuPbOEikYIhe9gx-QQIc4GfEqrBRK6sZsAKStDr-WPM6yq_QSNp1_G1y2RiqviU5zx263xnrphZIUl6U_VLqxItfTc43y3kWoaHYSMGnXCaNetDGsAixpKXBOm9Tra3Ln/s1600/4750947287_9b46b06120_s.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494983851240124658" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizZQ5akg-KWSqIuPbOEikYIhe9gx-QQIc4GfEqrBRK6sZsAKStDr-WPM6yq_QSNp1_G1y2RiqviU5zx263xnrphZIUl6U_VLqxItfTc43y3kWoaHYSMGnXCaNetDGsAixpKXBOm9Tra3Ln/s400/4750947287_9b46b06120_s.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />4. 1996 Château Margaux, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux<br /><br />Difficult vintage, which turned out to be great for Ch. Margaux and one of PP''s favourites. Take challenges, they will make you grow.<br /><br /></div><div><br />Lessons learned, advice:<br /><br />PD: If you dream about making a wine, but don't feel comfortable about oenologic knowledge involved, go for it anyway, hands-on / practical approach, PD went for natural wine-making according to 19th century techniques, "mould is good". Make the best of what you have and can do.<br /><br />PG: Decisions made not only by ourselves, but also influenced by others (spouse, friends, companies), flow along and make use of the chances life brings along. JMV: "Aha, so so what your spouse wants."<br /><br />PP: Never stop thinking that you can do better! There's always something to learn (fields of viticulture, social interaction, ...).<br />The best thing that can happen to a fermentation is for it to finish. But if something goes wrong or does not work as it ideally could - invest some extra work and time to get a great end result anyway.<br /><br /><br /><br />Important mentors in your lifes:<br /><br />AP: in the beginning many, and they encouraged me to be passionate, be strong, have values and never give up fighting.<br /><br /><br /><br />Quality:<br /><br />PP: A lot of factors change with time, except for terroir, which remains the same (well, mostly, with climate change, even that will get affected). But everything else has changed and will change again. Or rather evolve. Be open to new ideas, don't be too traditionalist, let evolution happen. Let the wine express terroir, but try to make great wines of today, don't imitate great wines of the past.<br /><br />PG: Bad times follow you, you may sell them eventually, but they will remind you of (your) faults for a very long time. Great quality is made in the vineyard, in the grapes.<br /><br /><br /><br />Do great wines require demanding markets?<br /><br />PD: Was always lucky enough to be in the position to make wines that HE liked, and which were always appreciated enough to sell well. But that was fortunate.<br />Great personalities will give their best under all circumstances, even if the market works against them.<br /><br />PP: In order to achieve excellence, demanding markets are needed. Market forces push you to make the best possible.<br /><br />PG: Bottom end more influenced by fashion and market, but high end is all about excellence.<br /><br /><br /><br />What do you think how people will remember you after yoou died:<br /><br />PG: The person who made too many mistakes.<br /><br />AP: will be probably forgotten within a few days, but hopefully they will say that I was a nice guy.<br /><br />PP: Certain pride in being forgotten, as long as achievement is not and remains.<br /><br />PD: People will hopefully remember my wines (except for vintages when my children were born, very distracted those days!!!)<br /><br /><br /><br />Any self-doubts or serious mistakes made?<br /><br />PP: A couple, probably many I am not even aware of.<br />Sometimes disappointed by people who work for him and who are not enthusiastic enough - that can be due to mistake made by company before.<br /><br />PD: Frustrated by people who do not understand my wines, he has to remind himself that this not meant personal. No big mistakes made, only small regrets.<br /><br /><br /><br />JMV: Many thanks for sharing your views with us today!</div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3178553541302326065.post-43760363090786140862010-06-26T07:02:00.000-07:002010-07-17T13:43:49.510-07:00Panel Discussion - Forging links between the Asian markets and the international wine industryright, guys, finally arived at the symposium, yeehah!!! and here's my first life blog (still without pics, I'm afraid...). Moderated by Jeannie Cho Lee MW (JCL), participants: Singapore based wine writer Poh Tiong Ch'ng (PTC) and Moses Tsang (MT), chairman of various Asian councils and major foundraiser for charity events. Focus will be Hong Kong, mainland China and Singapore.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioV-7TgshEhvX9xdmxO9z5_51yUDH4p0UIkBw9kQ12ahaAUuP8hr8UcPPKWbo7qivLKC15uZ7nsU-EeWL4lRAeinWKID89wZTmmmsb4E7X6Hy0omJz6CmGpoXuzJ-HQzx78deO3cQFbFQu/s1600/4749552842_8239e768c1_s.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494977388053760818" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioV-7TgshEhvX9xdmxO9z5_51yUDH4p0UIkBw9kQ12ahaAUuP8hr8UcPPKWbo7qivLKC15uZ7nsU-EeWL4lRAeinWKID89wZTmmmsb4E7X6Hy0omJz6CmGpoXuzJ-HQzx78deO3cQFbFQu/s400/4749552842_8239e768c1_s.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Background presented by JCL: As Facebook and Twitter are banned from China and rest of internet carefully watched by government, wine industry need to find other ways of communication. Enourmous bureaucratic efforts necessary to establish yourself. Layers of reality (what u see and what u don't see).<br />Japan one generation ahead, can give you an idea about where China is heading to (with some differences in regards to demography etc.). Chinese consumers are becoming more sophisticated and aware of quality now. But for most of Asian consumers, wine is a luxury product, when economy is doing well (or personal circumstances allow it), they will buy wine, if not, they will substitute it with other alc. beverage (plenty of options).<br />Hong Kong in a fantastic position now, with government entirely behind it, opposed to rest of market (with bureaucracy, anti-alcohol campaigns etc.).<br />Hong Kong's = wine hub? 93% of wine exports go to mainland China and Macao - a hub should be multidirectional, should it not? But HK's links within Asia actually not that strong. So do not over-estimate HK's powers to get you anywhere else, at least for the time being.<br />Majority of sales done during gift giving seasons (Chinese New Year and moon festival). Only time will tell, if new consumption patterns are coming up, supported e.g. by posh western restaurants promoting it. <div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilprEGUQE28_Lp2TzNyDOZaDX49dWzMJc0hdfLTJxGKMmkHcWwEOiCaYypRRJ9aGZHP_-i8kCFCbQ2tQvshmZ0I8rfMcfi7chBXNtoBwqHUGB4nMfmLjzn0grukD8iiQReU_50zQC7XjTd/s1600/4749507118_de5be1cb6b.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494977864202075410" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 138px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilprEGUQE28_Lp2TzNyDOZaDX49dWzMJc0hdfLTJxGKMmkHcWwEOiCaYypRRJ9aGZHP_-i8kCFCbQ2tQvshmZ0I8rfMcfi7chBXNtoBwqHUGB4nMfmLjzn0grukD8iiQReU_50zQC7XjTd/s200/4749507118_de5be1cb6b.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div> </div><div><br /><br />PTC: Good news: China has stopped adding Sprite and Coke to their wines. Assumed reason: Quality of Sprite and Coke has improved ;-) When are westerners going to stop adding milk and sugar to their tea?<br />Average Chinese person today has lived 2 entirely different lifes (2 lifetimes in a lifetime), from Mao to modern, fast moving culture, strong survival instincts. Most Chinese do not really care about having a lot of background information before drinking sth., e.g. Cognac, they are masters of adapting any product to their personal needs, based on their own experience / judgement.<br /><br />MT: sustainable development important on all levels. Applies to long-term relationships, objectives of joint business projects and, increasingly, enviromental aspects.<br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5494978050102591346" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 75px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 75px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju2doFI3EZymwzITAGoCGmIMqV-1DCx562UBUIWmBG0izXi6Zlr58_Tlo0QewDk0N_cvqp0ugAHcJXYNdLgbN9oqU0ePcn6NBRkG2y1xWjjbW-nCdm8EH_34eS10V0rCwmEpM0BjbRrtFa/s400/4749585870_10f1eef0ee_s.jpg" border="0" />Questions:<br />Investments and hopes of international winemakers so closely tied to continuous growth of Chinese economy, what is the forecast? MT: Consolidation seen and starting in some places, but many places like e.g. Chongqing incredibly growing.<br /><br />Consumption trends? PTC: Premium wines still used for official purposes and show-off (daily basis). And: more and more Chinese consumers actually ENJOY wines, and even get gradually more interested (particularly the younger ones).<br /><br />Threat of China to compete on export markets like US? JCL: wine is seen as luxury product (see above), luxury market for this growing soooo much, so far all locally produced quality wine is absorbed by local market. Chinese wineries rather facilitating things for foreigners on the Chinese markets, by educating consumers and making the market. So see them as an opportunity / colleagues rather than threat / competitors.<br /><br />Closing the panel, JCL said something I love and can entirely identify with: Let's use the term "empower the consumer" (on eye level) instead of "educating" them, which tends to be quite top-down.<br /><br />Sent life from MW Symposium / Bordeaux</div></div></div>Isabelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01991616372737284568noreply@blogger.com0