Life from Master of Wine Symposium, Bordeaux
(picture courtesy of www.mwsymposium.com)
Moderated by Jean-Michel Valette MW (JMV)
Speakers: Paul Draper (PD) - winemaker at Ridge Vineyards Peter Gago (PG) - chief winemaker at Penfolds
Alvaro Palacios (AP) - winemaker from Spain, with bodegas in Priorat, Rioja and Bierzo
Paul Pontallier (PP) - general manager Château Margaux
Panel went along with tasting of 4 wines (for tasting notes, better check out assessments of any MW present in the tasting ;-), I concentrated
1. 1995 Ridge Monte Bello, Ridge Vineyards, California, USA
Winery is determined to improve quality constantly (you can always do better). Climate allows to try to make the best vintage ever every single year. The 1995 vintage is great to drink now, but it one aim for the subsequent vintages was to get the tannins soften and get in balance with the fruit at an earlier stage.
2. 2006 La Faraona, Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo, Spain
Estate is AP's second "baby" (after Priorat), this wine makes him happy.
3. 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet, Penfolds, Barossa Valley, Australia
Expect the unexpected - not a Shiraz, but a Cabernet. Not a blend, but single vineyard, vines planted in the 1880ies, partly trellised on single-wire, low yielding. Barrel-fermented, no post-ferment maturation at all.
4. 1996 Château Margaux, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux
Difficult vintage, which turned out to be great for Ch. Margaux and one of PP''s favourites. Take challenges, they will make you grow.
Moderated by Jean-Michel Valette MW (JMV)
Speakers: Paul Draper (PD) - winemaker at Ridge Vineyards Peter Gago (PG) - chief winemaker at Penfolds
Alvaro Palacios (AP) - winemaker from Spain, with bodegas in Priorat, Rioja and Bierzo
Paul Pontallier (PP) - general manager Château Margaux
Panel went along with tasting of 4 wines (for tasting notes, better check out assessments of any MW present in the tasting ;-), I concentrated
1. 1995 Ridge Monte Bello, Ridge Vineyards, California, USA
Winery is determined to improve quality constantly (you can always do better). Climate allows to try to make the best vintage ever every single year. The 1995 vintage is great to drink now, but it one aim for the subsequent vintages was to get the tannins soften and get in balance with the fruit at an earlier stage.
2. 2006 La Faraona, Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo, Spain
Estate is AP's second "baby" (after Priorat), this wine makes him happy.
3. 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet, Penfolds, Barossa Valley, Australia
Expect the unexpected - not a Shiraz, but a Cabernet. Not a blend, but single vineyard, vines planted in the 1880ies, partly trellised on single-wire, low yielding. Barrel-fermented, no post-ferment maturation at all.
4. 1996 Château Margaux, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, Bordeaux
Difficult vintage, which turned out to be great for Ch. Margaux and one of PP''s favourites. Take challenges, they will make you grow.
Lessons learned, advice:
PD: If you dream about making a wine, but don't feel comfortable about oenologic knowledge involved, go for it anyway, hands-on / practical approach, PD went for natural wine-making according to 19th century techniques, "mould is good". Make the best of what you have and can do.
PG: Decisions made not only by ourselves, but also influenced by others (spouse, friends, companies), flow along and make use of the chances life brings along. JMV: "Aha, so so what your spouse wants."
PP: Never stop thinking that you can do better! There's always something to learn (fields of viticulture, social interaction, ...).
The best thing that can happen to a fermentation is for it to finish. But if something goes wrong or does not work as it ideally could - invest some extra work and time to get a great end result anyway.
Important mentors in your lifes:
AP: in the beginning many, and they encouraged me to be passionate, be strong, have values and never give up fighting.
Quality:
PP: A lot of factors change with time, except for terroir, which remains the same (well, mostly, with climate change, even that will get affected). But everything else has changed and will change again. Or rather evolve. Be open to new ideas, don't be too traditionalist, let evolution happen. Let the wine express terroir, but try to make great wines of today, don't imitate great wines of the past.
PG: Bad times follow you, you may sell them eventually, but they will remind you of (your) faults for a very long time. Great quality is made in the vineyard, in the grapes.
Do great wines require demanding markets?
PD: Was always lucky enough to be in the position to make wines that HE liked, and which were always appreciated enough to sell well. But that was fortunate.
Great personalities will give their best under all circumstances, even if the market works against them.
PP: In order to achieve excellence, demanding markets are needed. Market forces push you to make the best possible.
PG: Bottom end more influenced by fashion and market, but high end is all about excellence.
What do you think how people will remember you after yoou died:
PG: The person who made too many mistakes.
AP: will be probably forgotten within a few days, but hopefully they will say that I was a nice guy.
PP: Certain pride in being forgotten, as long as achievement is not and remains.
PD: People will hopefully remember my wines (except for vintages when my children were born, very distracted those days!!!)
Any self-doubts or serious mistakes made?
PP: A couple, probably many I am not even aware of.
Sometimes disappointed by people who work for him and who are not enthusiastic enough - that can be due to mistake made by company before.
PD: Frustrated by people who do not understand my wines, he has to remind himself that this not meant personal. No big mistakes made, only small regrets.
JMV: Many thanks for sharing your views with us today!
Keine Kommentare:
Kommentar veröffentlichen