Wines of India Masterclass at LIWF

My last report from events at this year's London Wine Fair features a tasting organized by the Indian Grape Processing Board (IGPB). This government-led body is set up to develop India's wine industry by research projects & knowledge transfer as well as international marketing activities.

The majority of wineries is based in India's 'wine capital' Nasik, which is one of the country's fastest growing cities. The key regions for growing grapes destined for wine production are concentrated in the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka in India's south west. The climate is tropical and vines do not go dormant in the winter. Unlike other countries with tropical viticulture (working 2 harvests per year, like e.g. Brazil), a single pre-summer harvest is general practice here. Although the true potential of Indian terroir is yet to be discovered, many of the wines presented at LIWF were very good, among them the following:

- Tiger Hill Brut Rosee Sparkling from Indage Vintners, with small bubbles of long persistence, a creamy mousse on the palate, aromas of strawberry, brioche and yeast, and a good length.

- Sula Dindori Reserve Viognier 2009, from Sula Vineyards, very aromatic with floral and white peach aromas, ripe apricot and lychee flavours, mineral notes and well balanced by medium+ acidity.

- Zampa Sauvignon Blanc, in a typical New World style, with pronounced tropical fruit flavours, herbaceous / grassy notes and vibrant acidity.

- La Reserve 2008, a 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Shiraz blend from Grover Vineyards (consulted by Michel Rolland). The wine is well structured, with red berry fruit, spicy vanilla, oaky and nutty aromas. It has a high level of grippy, but ripe tannins, which need a high protein red meat dish to go with.

- Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Four Season's Barrique Reserve Collection. Their winemaker used to work at Grover's, so his style is also influenced by Michel Rolland. The wines showed intense and complex aromas, with cassis and spicy vanilla dominating, and mint, leather and smoke underlying, balanced by medium acidity and a medium level of well-integrated, soft, ripe tannins.

India's recent focus on quality instead of quantity has increased drinkability (and enjoyability!) of its wines immensely. But recent times have also "witnessed plummeting grape prices, wineries in financial stress and growers uprooting vines" (IGPB). A big drawback for India's domestic market are high taxes on trade across states. Internationally, of India as quality wine producing nation needs to be improved, or even better, a USP needs to be established, in order to not only make Indian wines accepted by high end consumers, but unique, desirable and special - an ambitious, but in my opinion realistic goal for this dynamic, thriving country.