Freitag, 3. September 2010

Domaine Rotier, Gaillac

Gaillac in the Eastern bit of France's Southwest is a dynamic wine-growing region of approx. 2,700 ha, looking back to a long viticultural history (dating back to ancient Gaul) and forward to increasing investments, fuelled by increasing interest of the international markets in wines from Gaillac.

Historically, the region's potential was already widely recognised when Bordeaux' vintners still struggled to produce wines of quality in their less dependable climate zone, whilst warmer temperatures in Gaillac helped growing concentrated and powerful wines from a wide range of local grape varieties. Along with Champagne and Limoux, Gaillac is also known for its early experiments with and improvements for making sparkling wines. This is mainly due to the local white variety Mauzac, which ripens late and was therefore traditionally harvested late. Fermentation would stop during cold winters and re-start in spring, after the wines had been already bottled. Initially not fully understood and rather seen as fault or accident, the sparkling style soon became popular in the region and was further encouraged by arrival of stronger bottles, less likely to break under the CO2 pressure building up inside.

Situated at the shores of river Tarn, which flows into the Garonne, the location was basically perfect for shipping Gaillac wines to Northern Europe, and in the Middle Ages they were highly esteemed in England, for example. However, the trading route was often thwarted by stiff tariffs and hostile conditions imposed by protectionist Bordeaux merchants. The more successful Bordeaux wines became, the more difficult it became for Gaillac (and other regions of France's South-West) to find a way to markets and customers abroad.

Today, Gaillac strives to step out of its niche existence and regain its former glory. Several ambitious, innovative producers like Alain Rotier and Francis Marre from Domaine Rotier are the driving force behind this movement. Their first mission was to transform the family venture from growing grapes (for supplying the local cooperative) into a full-service estate bottling wine under its own label. Having always been environmentally conscious and protective, their next mission was the transformation to organic viticulture, for which Domaine Rotier was certified in 2009.



On their 35 ha planted on a plateau with a mix of alluvial and gravelly soils on the left side of river Tarn, they bring out the best of the region's rich heritage in local varieties:

Len de l'oeil's* translation 'far from the eye' refers to its particularly long peduncles, which are far away from the eye or bud of the branch, and also far away from the eye of the harvester, which may resulted in some grapes being left behind. Readily over-producing if not severely pruned, it has not such a good reputation for delivering high quality wines, and was widely used as 'working horse' of dry white Gaillac blends. With yield restrictions, however, wines are much more promising, and as the variety is prone to noble rot, it can also supply very concentrated, nectar-like musts. At Domaine Rotier, Len de l'oeil is used for producing both dry wines (RENAISSANCE and INITIALES) and sweet, botrytised wines under the RENAISSANCE and LES GRAVELS brands (partly blended with Sauvignon Blanc).

* Other spellings (e.g. Len de lElh) are common as well.

Duras, Braucol and Syrah are the black grape varieties used at Domaine Rotier. Duras gives round, supple red fruit aromas and a spicy pepper note. Braucol is high in tannins and colour pigments, and functions as the backbone of many red wines of Gaillac. In other regions, it is known as Fer Servadou, which translates into 'wild keeping well'. This could refer to the grapes high resistance against mould and/or its good ageing potential. Low yields and late harvest at Domaine Rotier, Braucol ensure that only ripe grapes of good aroma concentration are used. Different percentages of the varieties provide the blends for L'AME (the estate's premium brand), RENAISSANCE (ageing in French oak barrels), LES GRAVELS (micro-oxygenation in stainless steel tanks) and INITIALES (entry-level).

Prunelart used to be a common grape variety used in all Gaillac red wine blends of the Middle Ages. Having been particularly prone to damage by phylloxera, it was nearly extinct, and only in recent years it is winning ground again. One hectar of it was planted at Domaine Rotier in 2009 and will be ready to make part of the blend in a few years.




















Francis Marre explaining the viticultural principles of Domaine Rotier



For further information please visit www.domaine-rotier.com

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